This weeks topic is Champagne, the name of the world's most famous sparkling wine, the appellation under which it is sold, and the French wine region it comes from. While it has been used to refer to sparkling wines from all over the world – a point of much controversy and legal wrangling in recent decades – Champagne is a legally controlled and restricted name and can only be used to name wines made in the Champagne region of France. Located at a northern latitude of 49°N, the Champagne region lies at the northern edge of the world's vineyard-growing areas, with lower average temperatures than any other French wine region. In this kind of cool climate, the growing season is rarely warm enough to ripen grapes to the levels required for standard winemaking. Even in temperate years, Champagne's grapes still bear the hallmark acidity of a marginal climate, and it was only the discovery of secondary fermentation that provided a wine style capable of harnessing – and even embracing – this tartness. Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay are the primary grape varieties used to make Champagne – a recipe used for sparkling wines across the world. It is a little-known fact that four other varieties are also permitted for use in Champagne and are still employed today, albeit in tiny quantities. They are Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Petit Meslier and Arbane Champagne's particular combination of grape varieties did not come about by choice or design. Once upon a time, a much larger range of varieties was used, but this has been whittled down and refined over the centuries. As with so many French wines, it was the Champagne region's terroir (specifically the climate) which dictated which grape varieties would be grown in its vineyards. Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Chardonnay are among very few varieties capable of performing in northern France's cold, wet climate, so naturally, they prevailed. The key Champagne styles differ in their color, sweetness, base grape varieties, and whether they are the product of a single vintage or several (Non-Vintage). The whites may be either Blanc de Noirs (made from black-skinned grapes), Blanc de Blancs (made from green-skinned grapes) or just plain Blanc (made from any combination of the permitted varieties). Pink Champagne Rosé is made either by adding red wine to a white blend or sometimes by fermenting the juice in contact with the skins. These types all come with varying degrees of sweetness – not necessarily the result of residual sugar, but due to the addition of dosage, a little extra wine, and sugar, before the wine is finally bottled. In addition, the sugar content of Champagne is very important as it designates the type of Champagne you are drinking. Just after disgorgement a "liqueur de dosage" a blend of - most times- cane sugar and wine (sugar amounts up to 750 g/liter)- is added to adjust the levels of sugar in the Champagne when bottled for sale, and hence the sweetness of the finished wine. Today sweetness is generally not looked for per se, the dosage is used to fine-tune the perception of acidity in the wine. Wines labeled Brut Zero, more common among smaller producers, have no added sugar and will usually be very dry, with less than 3 grams of residual sugar per liter in the finished wine. The following terms are used to describe the sweetness of the bottled wine:
Nature (0 grams of sugar per liter) very rare to find
Extra Brut (less than 6 grams of sugar per liter) Often described as "Bone Dry"
Brut (less than 12 grams) the most common and the ones I describe today
Extra Dry (between 12 and 17 grams)
Sec (between 17 and 32 grams)
Demi-sec (between 32 and 50 grams)
Doux (50 grams) a very sweet Champagne
The most common style today is Brut. However, throughout the 19th century and into the early 20th century Champagne was generally much sweeter than it is today. Moreover, except in Britain, Champagne was drunk as a dessert wine (after the meal), rather than as table wines or before a meal.
Researching Champagne's can be daunting as just in preparation for this article I found over 500 different named Champagnes alone and I am sure they are more. But in the end, what we all want is a great Champagne at a reasonable price. To me, there are the everyday Champagnes and the ones for special occasions which is how I will break down my recommendations, first listing the ones I drink most of the time followed by the Grand Cru Champagnes and Premier Cru Champagnes which are those made from the region's very finest and highest-rated vineyards. However, branding is so important in Champagne that the Maison (producer) brand names sometimes take priority over appellation titles and such honorifics as Grand Cru and Premier Cru.
Recommended Every day Champagnes
Costco Kirkland brand Champagne NV $21
I'm kidding? Right? No, I am not. Costco's Kirkland Champagne has actually been rated pretty good by the experts and it is genuine French Champagne and has, for the most part, one of the lowest prices for French Champagne. I used it for my daughter's wedding and it went over well. Some reviewers are not as positive as I am saying that the wine is not as complex as other Champagnes but even the negative reviews say the wine is pretty good for the price. A blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier sparkling wine from the grand cru village of Verzenay in the Champagne region of France. The wine undergoes secondary fermentation in the bottle and matures for a minimum of 15 months. The Kirkland Signature Champagne Brut is available exclusively at Costco for $21. The wine is made by Manuel Janisson, whose own Champagne Janisson doesn’t seem to be readily available in the USA. The non-vintage Kirkland Signature Champagne Brut begins with pleasing aromas of lime, lemon, apple, a bit of freshly baked bread and some floral notes. The wine tastes lovely with slightly creamy yet still crisp flavors of lemon zest, lime, and green apple. It features plenty of bubbles but still has a delicate sense to it and that combined with good acidity helps it to go wonderfully with lots of different foods, especially those that are salty and fatty (potato chips, anyone?) We found it quite delicious with our dinner of roasted chicken, sweet potatoes and brussel sprouts. A bit of minerality leads into the crisp, dry finish. It has a nice complexity to it as well. Sure it pushes our price limit at $21 but the French have been making Champagne for hundreds of years and they kinda sorta know what they are doing, so it’s always a treat experience the real thing.
Recent review: “The Brut Champagne by Kirkland Signature is a blend of pinot noir, chardonnay, and pinot Meunier sourced from vineyards located in Verzenay. The wine starts off with lovely diatomaceous earth followed by lemon curd and brioche on the nose. The palate shows really nice citrus fruit with kumquat, lemon oil, sourdough bread, and a light musty earth flavor. Dense and layered, this is a simply outstanding effort that is a one-of-a-kind value. Drink 2018-2024.” — Owen Bargreen as quoted by Tan Vinh for The Seattle Times in December of 2018.
Heidsieck Monopole Blue Top Brut NV $30
For years this Champagne has been one of my favorites and best values for the price. It is widely available, especially on wine-searcher.com. Heidsieck & Co. Monopole is one of the oldest Champagne firms in all of France's Champagne region. The origins go back to the 18th century. Following in the footsteps of Florens-Louis Heidsieck, his nephew Henri-Louis Walbaum and brother-in-law Auguste Heidsieck created one of the most sought after Champagnes ever. In 1895, the firm already shipped over 1.5 million bottles worldwide. In 1818, Heidsieck was appointed suppliers of Champagne to the king of Prussia, emperor of Germany; in 1911, it was appointed suppliers of Champagne to the English court. In 1933, Heidsieck Champagne was featured at the Swedish court and at the table of Csar Nicolas II (the latter ordered over 400,000 bottles a year for his personal use). Heidsieck's Champagne is very Pinot Noir-centric, with the varietal making up close to 70% in each bottle. The rest is a blend of Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. To me, it is an elegant wine with balanced acidity and nutty pleasant flavor with a good finish. I usually am able to purchase it at around $30 a bottle.
Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar Light yellow. High-toned aromas of lemon, green apple, toasted almond, and herbs. Compact and austere on entry, then juicier in the mid-palate, offering flavors of orchard fruits and peach. Finishes on the lean side, with a good cut and an echo of citrus fruits.
Wine Enthusiast 87 Soft-fruited Champagne, with pear and pink grapefruit flavors. It has a bitter almond edge that cuts through the acidity. The finish is soft, towards the sweet end of brut. 
Wine Spectator 89 Candied apple character, with a hint of red berry and refined texture, mark this elegant, medium-bodied bubbly, which is fresh, with a moderate finish.
Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin Brut, Champagne, France NV $45
Probably the most popular Champagne in most areas of the US, today you see it in every supermarket and wine shop. No question it is a high-quality Champagne and a house with a great history. Please see my detailed previous blog about it a month or two ago. I encourage you to check out B-21 wines in Tarpon Springs, FL or Wines til Sold Out(WTSO) online for the best prices. I have purchased it once at $30 a bottle but have not seen that price in a long time. You can get magnums on WTSO for $90 most of the time, but usually, you will see it for around $40 to $45 a bottle. I see it often in grocery stores for $65 but to me, that is too high when you can have it delivered tomorrow for much less.
92 points James Suckling: " Some oyster shell, berry biscuits, fresh strawberries and gently toasty brioche here. Lots to like. The palate is plump and flavorsome with plenty of berries and citrus intertwined. Has good depth here. Grapefruit finish. Drink now. "
91 points Wine Spectator: "A well-cut and lacy Champagne in an elegant, aperitif style, with hints of chalk and graphite underscoring the lively Honeycrisp apple, cherry, and lemon curd flavors. Offers a sleek, minerally finish. Drink now through 2021.
90 points Decanter: " Champagne's second most prolific house, Veuve Clicquot sells an estimates 19 million bottles per year of its iconic yellow label. This generously proportioned Pinot Noir-based Champagne was a clear favorite among many of the judges. With up to 45% reserve wine and over 30 months on the lees, it offers pleasing buttery, berry scone nuances, and a frothy, persistent mousse. While the dosage has been reined in slightly in recent years, it remains at the higher end of the Brut spectrum.
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate: "The VC brand ambassador, the NV Brut Yellow Label (an assemblage of 55% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay and 15% Meunier) is currently based on the 2012 vintage and contains 35% reserve wines. On the nose, ripe and intense (yellow-fleshed) fruit aromas intermix with a very nice maturity from the reserve wines. Disgorged in January 2015 with a dosage of nine grams, this is a medium-bodied, yet round and full-flavored Brut. It possesses biscuit and nutty flavors, and a nice freshness and complexity in the intense, aromatic finish. Indeed, this is very delicate and impressively good.
Laurent-Perrier Brut, Champagne, France NV $45
Laurent-Perrier is a Champagne house founded in 1812. It is the main company of the Laurent-Perrier Group, whose other flagship brands include the houses of Salon, De Castellane, and Delamotte. Laurent-Perrier Group also acquired Chateau Malakoff as of 2004. With over 1,200 grape growers with supply contracts, Laurent-Perrier exports to more than 120 countries. Laurent-Perrier rose to become the world's third best-selling champagne brand as of 2005, behind Moët et Chandon and Veuve Clicquot. It has been one of our favorite Champagnes for years especially their Grand Cru. But for everyday drinking at a reasonable price, this is an excellent choice if you would like to try something new.
91 points James Suckling An updated and renovated NV offering from LP, this has bright white stone fruit aromas and flavors with a silky smooth palate and gently nutty build into the finish. Chardonnay leads the wine, while Pinot Noir and Meunier deliver structure and reserve wines add depth and interest."
90 points Wine Enthusiast This is smooth and softly textured wine. With its relatively high dosage and creamy texture, this standard nonvintage cuvée is immediately accessible and delicious. Great fruit makes it a great aperitif style of Champagne.
90 points Wine Spectator Lightly toasty and vibrant, this balanced Champagne carries flavors of melon, black currant, lemon preserves and smoky mineral on a fine, lively mousse.
Moet & Chandon Brut, Champagne, France NV $35
For those of you with long memories like me, this is a step above "White Star" Champagne as it was called years ago and is still available. You used to see a fair amount of "White Star" and all of a sudden this is what you generally see now. It is a nice Champagne for the money and good for everyday enjoyment.
91 points Wine & Spirits This blend is mostly Pinot Noir and Meunier, including 10 percent red wine for color. Chardonnay accounts for 10 to 20 percent, including a portion of reserve wines that may be providing the oceanic, oyster-shell notes that bring to mind Champagne’s Kimmeridgian limestone. This is broad and loses upfront, with fruity scents of orange and pomegranate. Then the wine keeps buzzing with brisk acidity, tightening up and extending the flavors with energy.
91 points Wine Spectator Toasted hazelnut and smoke notes are rich and focused in this harmonious version, layered with flavors of pastry, passion fruit pâte de fruit.
90 points Vinous Light, bright yellow. Musky pear and toasty lees on the nose and in the mouth. Fleshy and open-knit, with a hint of bitter lemon pith adding back-end cut. Finishes on a gently smoky note, with very good cling and focus and a hint of bitter quinine. This must be the best example of this bottling that I've had in years, if not decades. In the past, the Imperial Brut received a dosage of 12 g/l, but no more; in fact, there's talk that in the near future it may be dropped down as far as 7 g/l.
Grande Cru or Premium Champagne
The three Grande Cru's listed below are pretty much the ones I stick to for special occasions. Some, the Laurent-Perrier is not as famous but I can assure you they are great Champagnes and to me a great value for the money. Sometimes during the year, I have seen every one of these available on sale for under $100. Last November I purchased the Taittinger for $90 a bottle from Hi-Times wine in Orange County, California and had it shipped home. It was a great deal. Otherwise, you will usually find them at $100 to $200 a bottle, high for sure, but not out of line for similar top-shelf Champagnes. Interestingly if you look up Champagne on wine-searcher.com they list Cristal as the #1 popular and #1 Best Value Champagne which I find hard to believe. You see it all the time on TV and the movies and Celebrities seem to prefer it but it costs around $250 and I just find the ones listed here better for my tastes. I never buy it but according to wine-searcher.com,it is #1 for quality and price.
Laurent-Perrier Grand Siecle Brut, Champagne, France NV $110
Of all premium Champagnes, this has always been my favorite. It is just a clean, elegant, toasty Champagne with a smooth balanced flavor and great acidity. You will not be disappointed. You don't see a lot of it around and rarely will you see it on a restaurant wine list but if you find it give it a try. It gets high ratings from most professionals.
97 points Wine Enthusiast Laurent-Perrier has always preferred to keep its prestige cuvée as a nonvintage blend. With eight years of aging after bottling and plenty of reserve wines in the blend, it is a mature wine that is yeasty and toasty in character. To go with that, there is great fruit from the blend that only comes from grand cru vineyards. It's ready to drink. *Top 100 Wines of 2018
95 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate The NV Grand Siècle Grande Cuvée is a Grand Cru Brut based on 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir from a total of eleven villages. The youngest release is a blend of the (declared) vintages 2002, 1999 and 1998, and has a yellow-golden color that opens beautifully with a clear, deep and complex bouquet. It is pure, ripe and very elegant, mixing pain-aux-raisin and honey flavors with pure chalk. Ample, highly elegant, beautifully matured and fruit-intense, with fine caramel, honey, and torrone flavors, this is a well-structured Grand Siècle with great finesse and delicate freshness. Awesome. (SR)
94 points Decanter This blend of three vintages was originally released in early 2016. However, this tasting note is from a magnum which was disgorged in October 2017. Predominantly from the elegant 1999 vintage, the nose has a beautiful evolution of confit citrus fruit, toasted hazelnut and a hint of spice. Well-rounded and texturally pleasing with citric characters and a subtle and light style that his easy-drinking. (CG)
93 points James Suckling A blend of vintages chosen to contribute differing qualities, this does achieve the goal of all-round appeal with bright lemon, peach and melon fruits, fresh bready nuances and some deeper spice. The palate has a richness to it that speaks to quality vineyard selection. Plenty of flesh and handy balance. Drink now.
92 points Wine Spectator A sweet and subtle note of smoky toasted brioche underscores the baked melon, kumquat and ground ginger flavors of this vibrant Champagne, with a fine, lively mousse. Drink now through 2022. (AN)
Taittinger Comtes de Champagne "Blanc de Blanc", Brut, Champagne, France 2007 $120
It is pretty obvious this is a very well thought of Champagne given the number of reviewers who write about it. As I previously stated I just purchased this Champagne at the end of last year for $90 and it was one of the best value wines I purchased last year. It is a wonderful wine and great for the holidays. It is a Blanc de Blanc Brut made exclusively with Chardonnay.
98 points James Suckling 
This is a step up from the linear and fresh 2006. It shows subtle depth and power with a dense block of vivid fruit that's highlighted with lemon zest, green apples and hints of white peaches. Just the right amount of praline and nuts on the nose. Fine and tight bead gives the Champagne a luxurious mouthfeel. One for now or the cellar. Drink or hold. 
(12/2018)
97 points Wine Enthusiast Always one of the great Champagnes, this comes from a year that is generally regarded as good but not great. And yet, with this Champagne is magnificent. The wine has some good bottle age, hinting at toast while also keeping the tight, mineral edge of great wine from the Côte des Blancs. Drink from 2020. *Cellar Selection* (RV) (7/2019)
96 points John Gilman The new vintage of Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs is the 2007 and the wine is simply outstanding. The bouquet is deep, pure and very precise in its constellation of apple, pear, lemon zest, chalky minerality, incipient notes of crème patissière, a bit of fresh almond and a top note of white lilies. On the palate, the wine is brisk, youthful, full-bodied and laser-like in its focus, with a great core of fruit, superb mineral drive, utterly refined mousse, nascent complexity and stunning length and grip on the still very young finish. As is proper for the vintage differences, the 2007 Comtes is quite a bit more youthful out of the blocks than the very fine 2006 version was, but in the long run, this seems likely to be every bit as impressive with a bit more bottle age. (Drink between 2022-2065) (9/2018)
96 points Vinous Taittinger's 2007 Comtes de Champagne will be nearly impossible to resist upon release. Soaring aromatics, mid-weight structure, and soft contours give the 2007 its alluring personality. Lemon oil, white flowers, mint, chamomile, and green pear add brightness and freshness throughout, with a persistent, clean finish that makes it impossible to resist a second taste. Today, 2007 comes across as a slightly more open version of 2004, with a freshness that makes that wine so appealing, and a touch of textural richness that recalls 2002. Although 2007 does not have the explosive energy or verticality of the profound 2006, it will drink better earlier. 2007 has been positively brilliant on the three occasions I have tasted it so far. (AG) (7/2018)
95 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate The 2007 Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs is an excellent but tightly wound rendition of this cuvée, offering up pretty aromas of brioche, lemon oil, lily pollen and dried white flowers, with comparatively few of the overtly toasty signatures that will likely emerge with more protracted time on cork. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, pure and incisive, with a refined mousse, tangy acids, a tensile core and a harmonious, integrated profile. While it is giving pleasure today, to my palate, its plenitude is still five or six years away; it's certainly more backward than its 2006 predecessor. This was disgorged with nine grams dosage after just over nine years on the lees. (WK) (4/2019)
93 points Allen Meadows - Burghound A relatively restrained nose reflects notes of cool petrol, green apple, citrus rind, white flower and a hint of yeast character. The beautifully refined and equally restrained middle weight flavors possess a really lovely mouth feel, indeed it's almost delicate thanks to the very fine mousse though I was a bit surprised to find a vague hint of sweetness on the nicely complex finish. This is certainly very pretty and I particularly like the mouthfeel but I am partial to drier Champagnes and this, good as it is, isn't quite as crisp as I would prefer. I would further observe that this is at an inflection point in terms of its maturity and thus could easily be enjoyed now, or if you favor more obvious secondary influence, it could be held for another 5 to 8 years with no trouble. (10/2018)
93 points Decanter This is an Avant-première, due to be released on March 2018. A mild winter triggered the flowering a month earlier than usual, resulting in an early harvest lasting from 20 August until 10 September. Bottled last March, this is already promising with citrus and spring flower aromas. The palate is very precise, with a hint of creamy texture from the subtle bready notes, and in harmony with the saline acidity on the finish. It already has plenty of energy, with a fine mousse. Drinking window 2022 - 2035 (CG) (10/2017)
93 points Wine Spectator Elegant and toasty, with a firm backbone of acidity structuring the brioche, lemon zest, poached apricot and spun honey flavors as they ride the lacy bead. Grated ginger and chalk notes detail the lively finish. (AN) (12/2018)
Krug Grande Cuvee, Brut Champagne, France NV $170
If you have watched the Thomas Crown Affair with Pierce Brosnan and Rene Russo you have heard about this wine. When Thomas Crown(Pierce) takes Rene out for dinner at Cipriani's in New York for the first time the waiter comes up to order drinks and Pierce says "the lady drinks Champagne" and the server then says we have a nice Krug Grande Cuvee to which Pierce says fine and the server says good choice, sir. Indeed it has always been a good choice for myself and my family. On our California trip last year at Bouchon's, Thomas Keller's casual restaurant in Yountville it was the Champagne we served with lunch.
96 points James Suckling A very complex nose here with ripe, deep lemon and grapefruit aromas on offer plus some restrained chalky elements, biscuit, some roasting herbs, hints of pepper, then a little tobacco too. Very complex and full of fresh characters. The palate has a wealth of different fruit flavors like lemon, peach, nectarine, and plums. The finesse in terms of structure, detail, and precision is staggering; sherbet-like elegance with immense concentration and power. A great Grande Cuvée. Incredibly satisfying. Based on 2006.
96 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate Compared to Krug's 160th edition, the bright golden-yellow colored NV Grande Cuvée 166ème Édition (ID117010) is still a baby that shows the chalky and fruity features of a young white Burgundy intermixed with notes of Schwarzwälder Kirsch (dark cherries with black chocolate) and floral (ammonia) flavors on the pure, fresh and elegant yet intense and still yeasty brioche nose with its ripe apple aromas and refreshingly bright (lemon juice) overtones. Round, wide and very elegant yet also straight and tense on the palate, this 2010-dominated cuvée is very delicate, fresh and chalky but also dense and lush in its vinous texture. The finish is well-structured, fresh and persistent, indicating great complexity and vibrancy. However, I would wait at least another three years, during which time the 166th edition will gain even more finesse and quiet. The 166ème Édition is composed of 140 wines from 13 different harvests between 1998 and 2010, and it's a blend of 45% Pinot Noir with 39% Chardonnay and 16% Pinot Meunier, the latter of which provides the vivacity that the Chardonnay from the Côte des Blancs surprisingly didn't have in 2010, a vintage that was marked by its 'tumultuous climate,' as Eric Lebel writes. Tasted in New York in November 2018. (SR)
95 points Vinous Light gold. Nectarine, poached pear, toasted nuts, anise and buttered toast on the complex, mineral-tinged nose. Deeply concentrated but energetic and precise as well, offering sappy orchard and pit fruit flavors along with notes of brioche and marzipan. A bitter citrus pith note adds definition to the impressively long, smoky finish. Shows more power and heft than I've experienced from this bottling in recent years. (JR)
95 points Wine Enthusiast This is the latest incarnation of Grande Cuvée, now in its 166th edition. Toasty aromas signal an enticingly mature wine, rich with intense secondary flavors. It preserves the wonderful richness and the style of this producer. The wine is ready to drink now, but it will be also enjoyable for many more years. *Cellar Selection* (RV)
95 points Wine Spectator This mouthwatering Champagne feels like a swathe of raw silk on the palate, where flavors of sun-dried white cherry, toast and Meyer lemon peel are accented by expressive saffron, ground coffee, and mandarin orange peel aromas. Long and racy on the honey-, spice- and smoke-laced finish. Disgorged winter 2017. Drink now through 2025.
