NYC "The Big Apple" Wines and Dining 2024

Recommended Restaurants

Sea Fire Grill Midtown

Upon the recommendation of the hotel concierge, we enjoyed an exquisite dinner at Sea Fire Grill in New York City. This establishment is affiliated with the Benjamin Steakhouse franchise, and both the cuisine and service were exemplary. It is undoubtedly a five-star venue, accompanied by five-star pricing. As is common with many restaurants in New York City, the markup on wine from retail prices is 300%, which I believe is excessively high. However, they did offer one of the finest wine selections I have encountered in some time. I opted for a flawlessly prepared swordfish, while my wife savored the remarkable seared scallops. Despite the elevated wine prices, we found the restaurant to be outstanding in terms of both service and the quality and variety of the food. In hindsight, we should have chosen wine by the glass, but I could not resist the allure of their favored Aubert Powder House Sonoma Chardonnay on the list.

STK Steakhouse Midtown

Having visited New York City for several decades, we have established a preferred selection of businesses, particularly in the realm of steakhouses, where we have consistently favored the Benjamin franchise. However, seeking a change for this trip, we decided to try STK Steakhouse in Midtown, and it proved to be an excellent choice. The menu is impressive, featuring many classic options. Notably, they offer a fine selection of A5 Japanese Kobe beef, including an intriguing A5 French Dip, which I had not encountered before. Additionally, they provide A5 strip and filet steaks, with the filet being our preferred cut. I opted for a Delmonico steak, dry-aged and accompanied by Bearnaise sauce, which was superbly prepared. For my starter, I enjoyed a delightful Tuna Tartare that reminded me of a similar dish I had at PLAE restaurant on Amelia Island years ago. Overall, we had a pleasant dining experience, and the pricing was among the more reasonable options in New York. It is worth noting that the cost was lower because we chose to share a single entrée and ordered wine by the glass, which significantly impacted the total. As we dined, it was evident that this establishment did not embody the traditional dark, heavily oaked ambiance typical of many NYC steakhouses. Instead, the interior was modern and sleek, accompanied by hip hop techno Buddha bar music, and we were the only patrons over the age of 40. Our experience at STK reinforced my previous observations made in Paris last summer, indicating that the dining scene in major cities has shifted towards a younger, more vibrant, and expedited format. I should mention that from the moment we were seated until our departure, we spent just one hour there, and we did not feel rushed at all. The era of lengthy, elegant Continental dinners seems to have waned, with younger diners now favoring a more casual and swift dining experience. I like to call it Quick and Hip Dining. For us, as long as the food remains exceptional, we will be content, while still seeking out those cherished traditional dining experiences.

Milos Estiatorio Hudson Yards

This marked our second visit to Milos, with this occasion being our inaugural dinner experience there. The establishment is renowned for its wide array of seafood, all expertly prepared. This visit was no exception. My wife opted for the shrimp, which were cooked to perfection. I had intended to order fish, specifically my favorite, pompano; however, it was unfortunately out of season and unavailable. Consequently, I chose the rack of lamb, which was also prepared flawlessly and exceptionally flavorful. We began our meal with a platter featuring a variety of hummus, which was incredibly delicious and among the finest I have encountered, prompting our visit primarily for that dish. The view and service are unparalleled, and securing a reservation is essential, as the restaurant was bustling with local patrons. I wholeheartedly continue to recommend Milos.

Osteria DelBianco Midtown NYC

Our decision to dine at this establishment stemmed from our research into restaurants in New York City. During this process, I observed that this restaurant had received only one low one-star review, while the majority of reviews were rated four or five stars. It is uncommon to encounter such a disparity in ratings, as there are typically more low scores. I am pleased to confirm that the presence of only one one-star review is indicative of their quality. We enjoyed an excellent dinner, with all dishes freshly prepared and enhanced by a delightful blend of herbs and spices that contributed to a rich flavor profile. I ordered my usual dish, Veal Scaloppini, which featured the thinnest slices of meat I have encountered in years, and it was delicious. The drinks were satisfactory, and although the wine list was somewhat limited, we managed to find a pleasant wine to accompany our meal. The pricing was reasonable. The restaurant was bustling with locals, creating a vibrant and somewhat noisy atmosphere, which we found enjoyable due to the evident happiness of the patrons. My wife chose the pasta Bolognese and thoroughly enjoyed it, even taking some home for lunch the following day. I can wholeheartedly recommend Osteria DelBianco Midtown in New York City.

Wine Spectator NY Wine Experience 2024

It has been six years since my last attendance at the Wine Spectator New York Wine Experience, primarily due to cancellations caused by the Covid pandemic. After four years, it felt as though the same selections were being showcased annually. However, this year brought a refreshing change, featuring a vertical tasting of Léoville Las Cases, one of my preferred Bordeaux wines, prompting my return to New York City. As is customary, the weekend was filled with intense tastings and lectures from early morning until late evening. By my estimation, over 300 wines were presented, and at my current age, it is simply unfeasible to sample them all—perhaps a younger individual might manage to do so more efficiently. Over the course of three days I tasted and enjoyed 96 wines, with a cumulative value of approximately $21,000, which was all I could manage. The opportunity to sample and enjoy wines of such caliber and expense, representing a global selection, is unparalleled. The Wine Spectator New York Wine Experience remains the premier venue for enhancing one’s palate and wine knowledge at a reasonable cost, effectively allowing one to travel the world through wine. I still regard it as an excellent value, despite having only sampled about a third of the wines available. On average, the retail price of the wines was around $240 per bottle. One notable observation I made is that the Master Sommelier curriculum may require reevaluation. Having attended several classes, I have consistently encountered the initial lesson emphasizing that the first assessment of a wine should focus on whether it exhibits predominantly earthy or fruity characteristics. Traditionally, "earthy" has been associated with Old World wines, particularly from Europe, while "fruity" has been linked to New World wines, such as those from the USA, South Africa, and South America. However, I have noticed a shift, as some Old World producers are now crafting fruit-forward wines, while certain New World vintners, especially in California, are producing earth-forward wines, indicating a clear evolution in winemaking practices. This change is partly attributed to California vintners increasingly focusing on terroir-driven, single-vineyard wines, aligning with traditional French principles.

My primary objective in writing about wine is to recommend high-quality options to friends that are reasonably priced and accessible for purchase. To facilitate this, I have categorized my recommended wines into three groups: those priced under $100, those over $100, and a singular exceptional wine that merits the investment of purchasing a bottle at least once in a lifetime. Given that the average price of wine today hovers around $240, it is impractical for most individuals, including myself, to indulge in a bottle at that price on a daily basis while maintaining financial stability. I often question whether wines at such elevated prices truly justify their costs, which continue to rise. Therefore, I have established $100 as a significant threshold, as it appears to be a price point of relevance for many consumers. While numerous wines are offered in the range of $500 to $1200 per bottle, I can confidently assert that, in my view, most do not warrant their price tags, and in some instances, are not worth any price at all; thus, it is unwise to devote time, effort, and resources to them.

Recommended Value Wines Less than $100

15 to consider as strong buys

Diatom Chardonnay Santa Barbara County 2023 WS93 $25. Although I typically do not gravitate towards Chardonnays or wines from Santa Barbara, this particular offering has changed my perspective. For its price point, it stands out as an exceptional wine. The complex floral notes of white peach, pineapple, orange blossoms, and lemon curd are prominent on both the nose and palate, harmoniously balanced with a moderate acidity that pairs well with food. It serves as an excellent everyday wine, showcasing craftsmanship and technical superiority that rivals more expensive options. I will certainly consider purchasing this wine again in the future.

Kendall Jackson Chardonnay Petaluma Gap Jackson Estate Cloud Landing WS91 $55. I have long held a fondness for Kendall Jackson wines, having enjoyed hundreds of their bottles. This particular Chardonnay ranks among the finest I have ever tasted, deserving of an even higher rating. It presents a complex profile, characterized by good acidity and minimal oak influence, resulting in a well-balanced experience. Other reviewers have noted flavors of lush clove and nutmeg, alongside toasted brioche, salted butter, lemon, and peach. This wine exemplifies the exceptional quality that this winery consistently delivers.

Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes 2013 WS94 $77I was able to taste this wine alongside Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes 2016, which was conveniently positioned next to it, the superiority of Suduiraut was evident. The predominant flavor of smooth, velvety honey enveloped the palate, delivering an enduring pleasure. Although the d’Yquem also received a rating of 94 points, it exhibited some bitterness and lacked the same level of smoothness. My previous experiences with d’Yquem have not always been exceptional, and a common remark is, “Yes, it may not be perfect, but it is a d’Yquem,” highlighting the influence of bias in our evaluations. Over the years, I have come to prefer Chateau Suduiraut, as it consistently matches or surpasses d’Yquem in my estimation, all while being significantly more affordable (the 2016 d’Yquem is priced at $380).

Domaine Carneros by Taittinger Brut Caneros California Sparkling Wine WS93 $39. For many years, this Champagne/Sparkling wine has consistently emerged as the most remarkable value at this event. Each year, I find myself astonished by the exceptional quality, complexity, and technical prowess that surpasses even the finest offerings from France. I can enjoy and serve this wine throughout the day and night with great pride, as it truly is that impressive. Its intricate flavors and perfect acidity create a harmonious balance, making it difficult to distinguish from renowned brands such as Louis Roederer. It is essential for all of us, myself included, to set aside any preconceived notions and consider this wine for our New Year's celebrations. The Rosé variant is equally exceptional.

Roederer Estate Brut Anderson Valley L'Ermitage WS 94 $68

This California Sparkler has consistently stood out as an exceptional choice, often rivaling premium French Champagnes while offering significant cost savings. Fortunately, its quality remains unchanged, continuing to impress. The aroma is rich with fruit notes and exhibits complexity, featuring hints of apple, hazelnut, clove, and nutmeg. The finish is notably long and quite enjoyable. The only other California Sparkler that may offer comparable value is the straightforward Roederer Estate Brut from Anderson Valley, priced at approximately $30 per bottle, which we have also appreciated for many years. I wholeheartedly recommend either option.

Champagne Louis Roederer Collection 244 NV WS $93

This wine is surprisingly accessible, even in Florida, where I discovered it priced at $50 per bottle. It is an exceptional Champagne that undoubtedly stands among the finest in the region. This offers the opportunity to enjoy authentic French sparkling wine at an excellent value, and it truly is a remarkable selection. Personally, I would find it challenging to choose between this and the California Roederer L’Ermitage. It is undoubtedly a refined Champagne, characterized by good acidity and a complex flavor profile that includes notes of pear, cherry, and apple, complemented by a subtle hint of almonds. The finish is impressive, and there is ample supply, with over 21,000 cases imported to the United States. This is certainly a wine to consider stocking up on for the holiday season

La Crema Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Tidal Break Vineyard WS90 $55

This wine is exclusively accessible via their wine club and is not sold in retail outlets. It is unfortunate, as it is an exceptional wine that, in my view, deserves a rating higher than 90. I earnestly requested the winemaker, Craig McAllister, to include me on the club list to obtain this wine. We shall see what transpires. It is a remarkable Chardonnay featuring a complex flavor profile that introduces new notes of ginger, lemon, pineapple, and peach, complemented by refreshing acidity and subtle spice undertones. I found it to be highly enjoyable and hope to have the opportunity to purchase some in the future.

Dutton-Goldfield Pinot Noir Green Valley of Russian River Valley Dutton Ranch Emerald Ridge Vineyard 2021 92WS $75

The Dutton-Goldfield vineyards are renowned globally for producing exceptional Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes, which are sought after by numerous winemakers. This particular wine originates from the family that owns a portion or the entirety of these vineyards. I had the pleasure of tasting it during a luncheon dedicated to Sonoma County wines. It exhibited a delightful bouquet of robust dark cherries and showcased a deep, concentrated black cherry hue. The flavor profile was rich and well-balanced. I did notice a slight bitterness at the back of the palate, which dissipated when paired with food. Overall, I found it to be an outstanding Pinot Noir that pairs wonderfully with various dishes.

Pedroncelli Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Mother Clone 2021 $15This wine offers exceptional value at an astonishingly low price, presenting a unique experience. It begins with an enticing smoky cherry aroma, showcasing flavors of both black cherry and blackberry. The palate reveals a complexity that surpasses expectations for its price point. The wine is rich in tannins and features the peppery notes typically associated with Zinfandel. Its deep color is noteworthy, and one might easily mistake it for a Pinot Noir, despite it being a red Zinfandel. At a retail price of $15 per bottle, it stands out as the finest Red Zinfandel I have encountered in years.

Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Brother Single Vineyard 2018 WS 90 $40. This serves as an exemplary illustration of how longstanding biases and prejudices can be swiftly dispelled. I had never found Rodney Strong wines to be particularly impressive, nor had I ever made a purchase. However, this particular wine has changed my perspective. Priced at $40 per bottle, it offers remarkable value. It presents a deep, concentrated black hue, accompanied by an indulgent smoky cedar aroma. The palate reveals a luxuriously smooth texture, enriched with an abundance of fruit and berry flavors, all harmoniously balanced. A subtle hint of oak emerges as a delicate vanilla note, culminating in a prolonged and pleasing finish. This Cabernet stands out as exceptional, exhibiting a more refined style while maintaining a bold and full-bodied character. My primary concern lies in its limited availability, as it is a single vineyard wine with low production.

Marques de Murrieta White Rioja Capellania 2019 WA 96 WS 93(2015) $78

This vineyard has a notable history that dates back to 1986. In that year, they began aging a white wine in oak barrels for 22 years, followed by an additional six years in stainless steel before its release. Remarkably, the wine was never subjected to excessive oak influence. Currently, it commands a price exceeding $500 per bottle on the open market, with limited availability. I had the privilege of tasting it at a previous Wine Spectator Wine Experience and have enjoyed two or three bottles during meals, with one remaining in my cellar. It is evident that describing this vineyard as merely significant would be an understatement. The 2019 vintage was showcased at the Chef’s Challenge, where it was selected by Bruce Sanderson of Wine Spectator to pair with Ensaladilla Rusa featuring Langosta and Trout Roe, prepared by Chef Jose Andres. In my opinion, it was a perfect pairing. The wine presented a delicate smoky aroma, leading to a palate rich in exquisite fruit, highlighted by vibrant pear notes and a lingering finish. It complemented the dish beautifully, and I found Chef Jose's entrée to be the standout of the day.

Tolaini Chianti Classico Vallenuova 2022 WS 93 $25

During the Chefs Challenge, Bruce Sanderson selected a pairing for Ervilhas com Chourico: a Tatlet featuring Portuguese Chorizo Mousse accompanied by a Green Pea Salad prepared by Emeril Lagasse. This combination proved to be an exceptional match of wine and cuisine, offering great value. I have a particular fondness for Chiantis, especially the Classico and Reserva varieties. The wine exhibited a pleasant fruit balance with moderate acidity, enhancing its compatibility with food. Priced at $25 per bottle, this Chianti represents an excellent value, and I wholeheartedly recommend it.

La Crema Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2021 WS91 $22

This wine was recognized as Wine Spectator's Wine of the Year for 2024, and I concur that it represents an exceptional value for its price, particularly for enthusiasts of Pinot. The color appeared somewhat light; however, upon tasting, it revealed a pleasantly moderate body. The aroma and flavor were dominated by rich dark cherry notes. The finish was commendable, and I observed that it was a well-crafted wine. For Pinot aficionados, this is an excellent choice to enjoy regularly with dinner without straining one's finances. I found Wine Spectator's rating of 91 to be accurate; while it may not be as striking as some others, it is certainly a wine that can be appreciated by many

The Calling Chardonnay Russian River Valley Dutton Ranch 2022 WS93 $20

An exceptional Chardonnay priced at only $20 per bottle represents an incredible value. The initial aroma presents notes of vanilla, complemented by hints of honeysuckle and pear, which seamlessly transition into the palate. Although the wine was initially served at a lower temperature, it gradually warmed in the glass, revealing a captivating cedar plank aroma and flavor that highlights the oak, which is subtly integrated and enhances the overall profile of the wine. The mouthfeel is velvety, a quality I particularly appreciate, and the finish is quite pleasing. I noted that the fruit is well-balanced and exhibits a delightful sweetness. This further reinforces the notion that a wine must taste like grape juice to be considered authentic. It is rare to find a California Chardonnay that is not excessively oaked, yet this wine offers a remarkable complexity of flavors at such an affordable price. It appears to be widely available, and interestingly, I found it listed on Amazon for $27 per bottle.

Aubert Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Powder House 2021 WS95 $110

Mark Aubert has been crafting California Chardonnay for many years, and his expertise is evident. Before establishing his own vineyard, he served as the lead winemaker for Peter Michael, where he played a significant role in creating many of the winery's exceptional wines. In my view, Mark epitomizes California's "Burgundy wine producers in the Burgundy style." Recently, I had the pleasure of enjoying this beautifully crafted wine during dinner over the weekend. The aroma and flavor profile are intricate yet harmoniously balanced, featuring a rich array of fruit notes, including peach and apple. The acidity is moderate, complemented by a subtle hint of oak, which is not overpowering. I paired it with a buttery swordfish, and the combination resulted in a truly indulgent dining experience. Priced just above $100, I included it in my collection of wines under $100, close enough for me, as it offers remarkable value compared to a French Chardonnay of similar quality and style.

Recommended Outstanding Wines Over $100

Champagne Pol Rodger Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill 2015 WS 95 $500

It is now the moment to ascend into the Stratosphere and explore wines whose prices border on the absurd, or those that compel you to reevaluate your romantic relationship, prompting you to enhance it in order to justify purchasing a bottle or two rather than confronting potential alimony expenses. Sir Winston Churchill Pol Roger has long been regarded as one of the premier marquee Champagnes globally, accompanied by a price that reflects its esteemed status. Undoubtedly, it is an exceptional Champagne. It begins with a creamy texture and fine mousse, presenting a complex array of flavors including lemon and almonds, culminating in a prolonged and delightful finish that gives you pause to consider how you will manage the expense. I acknowledge my bias regarding the price. Nevertheless, it is indeed a remarkable Champagne, and having enjoyed it previously, I would certainly purchase it if it were to be offered at a discount on WTSO.com.

Maison Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot 2021 WS 92 $255

This price for a Clos Vougeot Grand Cru is truly exceptional, and the quality of the wine is remarkable. I must admit, I was taken aback. Louis Jadot produces a wide range of Burgundies, which often leads me to question the overall quality, as he does not seem to focus on a specific region or set of vineyards to create higher-end wines. I have visited his residence in Beaune and explored one of his cellars, where I found that he offers good wines at reasonable prices. In my opinion, this particular wine stands out, achieving a level of excellence that is not typically associated with this producer. I believe the Wine Spectator rating of 92 is understated; I would rate it higher. It embodies the classic characteristics of Clos Vougeot, featuring a complex aroma and flavor profile with multiple fruit notes, harmoniously balanced with a terroir-driven earthiness that is quite enjoyable. The wine possesses ample body and intensity, culminating in a long finish. With only 195 cases imported, availability is limited, but it is certainly worth seeking out at this price point. Most Clos Vougeot wines I encounter today often exceed $500, making this an exceptional deal.

Peter Michael The Poppies Knights Valley WS 92 $230

This wine is undoubtedly Sir Peter’s most renowned creation, and justifiably so. I remained on his mailing list for several years, only opting out to explore more white wines, as my wife and family typically do not consume reds. To me, this wine was nothing short of spectacular, deserving of a rating exceeding 92. It presents a bold and dark profile with a berry aroma, followed by intricate flavors of mocha, cocoa, anise, and various blackberry notes, all in perfect harmony and balance, culminating in a lingering finish. Notably, Sir Peter engaged in conversation with me three times over the weekend, each time recognizing me from previous encounters, and he is always a delightful individual to converse with. What truly astonished me, and was a significant honor, was his remark that he had always believed I was a wine writer for Wine Spectator. While that is not the case, it was indeed a flattering compliment. Perhaps he has come across my blog? I have extended offers to assist him, as a physician, with his charity focused on prostate cancer, and he mentioned he would reach out. Only time will reveal the outcome.

Domaine Faiveley Batard-Montrachet WS 95 2008 $372

I would like to inform you that my remarks regarding this wine represent the final commentary I will be making for this blog this year and I waited until the end to write regarding this wine. Additionally, it was the inaugural wine served on Saturday morning during the Wine Experience. Notably, Montrachet, Batard Montrachet, and Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru are the most coveted White Burgundy Chardonnays for both Clark and myself. Were we to possess the financial means of Elon Musk, these would likely be the only wines we would consume regularly, regardless of their cost, as they hold a near-spiritual significance for us. While I have not been particularly fond of Domaine Faiveley, it remains a favorite among many in France, especially in restaurants. It appears that during our dinners in Beaune, France, nearly all patrons opt for his wines. Undoubtedly, it is a remarkable wine. A notable insight I gained from Robert Parker years ago is that it exhibits a subtle hint of green color, along with an almost imperceptible lime flavor, which Parker suggests indicates a wine of exceptional quality. This characteristic of Montrachet wines is complemented by aromas and flavors of apple, honeysuckle, and vanilla, all harmoniously balanced with a moderate acidity that pairs well with food. The fresh lemon/lime note contributes to a mouthwatering tartness and brightness, further suggesting sufficient acidity for culinary pairings. The wine concludes with a long, delightful finish, and the more prolonged the finish, the greater my desire to acquire a case. In comparison to the current price of standard Montrachet, which exceeds $1,000 per bottle, Batard Montrachet serves as an excellent alternative for those mindful of their budget.

Lokoya Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 $500

This wine experience undoubtedly deserves a five-star rating. Among the selections from Lokoya, it stood out as the finest. The wine presented a deep black hue with a pronounced dark edge, indicating its youthfulness. Its aroma was intricate, with noticeable notes of eucalyptus. Additionally, cherry flavors emerged, which is atypical for a Cabernet. The body was robust and assertive, showcasing a fruit-forward profile that was well-balanced. I detected a subtle hint of concord grape, which I interpret as a sign of complexity, affirming its identity as grape juice. During a previous Master Sommelier class, I learned that if a wine does not evoke the taste of grape juice, it cannot be classified as true wine. The tannins were evidently softening as I compared the 2019 Mount Veeder with the 2013 vintage, illustrating the exceptional aging potential of this wine. While I appreciated the 2019 vintage, I found the 2013 to be more harmonious and mature, making it more enjoyable at present. In both the 2013 and 2019 vintages, I described the alcohol sensation as "cool" rather than "hot," a characteristic I associate with mountain wines, particularly those from Mount Veeder.

Here is an eye opener! I had this wine in New Orleans this summer and already written a high review from our New Orleans trip. Here are my comments from then: "No question the darkest, blackest pitch black wine I have ever had. Highly concentrated and extracted with a balanced nose and taste. For me it had a ton of dark chocolate. Still full of fruit and to me mild acid. It will continue to age wonderfully and sent exceptionally well with our Chateaubriand. I love most Mountain vineyards in Napa."

Best Wine of Event regardless of price close to Spiritual

2000 The Haut-Brion Mission, Pessac-Léognan RP” 100 W2 95 JS $600

Wine Advocate Review Date: 08/2012

One of the wines of the vintage, the 2000 has barely budged in its evolution since it was bottled and released in 2002. After ten years in bottle, it still reveals a dense opaque purple color along with a potentially sensational bouquet of blueberries, black currants, graphite, asphalt and background oak. Extremely powerful, full-bodied and superbly concentrated with good acidity and high but round tannins, this massive La Mission-Haut-Brion should take its place among this estate’s most hallowed vintages when it hits full maturity in another one to two decades. I was surprised by just how youthful this wine tasted at age 12. If tasted blind, I would have guessed it to be around 4 to 5 years old. (RP)

I have included Robert Parker's 100-point review of this particular wine to substantiate my belief that it was the highlight of the event. It was nearly a transcendent experience. My observations indicate that the wine exhibits some age, evidenced by a slight browning at the edges of its dark hue. The aroma evoked memories of roses flourishing in a grove of smoky cedar trees. The palate was remarkably intricate, featuring notes of roses, cedar, anise, and blackberries, along with a multitude of other flavors. Envision yourself in a landscape filled with roses and fruits, enveloped by cedar trees; this wine transports you there. Despite its complexity, it maintained a commendable balance. The finish was prolonged and gratifying, contributing to an overall sense of tranquility. Is such an experience worth $600? That is a decision only you can make. For me, it would be a worthwhile investment for a once-in-a-lifetime encounter. Few wines have ever taken me to a realm of such splendor, but this one certainly did.

The New Napa Valley 2023

We returned to Napa Valley to attend the Chaine des Rotisseurs Bailliage des Etats-Unis 2023 National Mondial Weekend. This is the first meeting since Covid and the last one was 4 years ago. So everyone was excited to be there and we had a great time experiencing fine dining and way too much wine. We went a few days early so we could meet with some Vitners and taste a few extra wines, why I am not sure, as always at Mondial meetings there is again way too much wine. We flew into Sacramento which some have questioned. Believe me, if you are traveling to Napa especially Sacramento is a much easier way to get there. It is a one-hour drive from the airport on 99% of 4-lane highways. For years we flew into San Francisco and driving to wine country from SFO and especially going home is a nightmare with frequent traffic jams. I once spent 5 hours on the Oakland Bridge and I said never again. Some days the schedules are not ideal for Sacramento but our return flights were almost direct, quick, and stress-free.

Westin Verasa Napa

We very much enjoyed our stay here and felt its location was great and the luxury of the place was great. We had a great comfortable room. Housekeeping was some of the best and they always met our requests without our having us repeat ourselves. The front desk was similarly always professional and helpful. Their poolscape and hot tub area were also one of the best we have seen. They are well-located downtown within reasonable walking distance to Copia, Oxbow Market, and Main Street. My only criticism is they need to improve their dining choices. We look forward to staying there again.

Restaurants

Bard at Westin Verasa

This is the hotel's cafe and casual breakfast, lunch, and dinner spot. Frankly, it is very small as well as the menu choices. Arriving late our first evening we had dinner there. The service was inexperienced and way too casual and had a hard time understanding what we wanted. There were few choices on the menu but the food preparation was good and we had an OK dinner. For a quick bite, it is adequate but sometimes when we arrive late after a long day of travel we liked to be pampered and cared for and this was not that kind of place.

La Torque Westin Verasa Napa

Sadly our greatly anticipated dinner at Le Torque at the Westin Hotel in Napa California was a huge disappointment. We had researched the restaurant and had found that it is Michelin-starred and it has a well-known chef, so our expectations were very high. Regrettably, our expectations were not met. To begin with our reservations for some reason were not clearly made and in addition, when we made our reservations with the hotel concierge, unknown to us, we were charged an upfront deposit that we were not told about and we only found out about it when our check was delivered which I find somewhat concerning. We had just arrived from a tasting at the vineyards and had a bottle of wine so we figured we would drink that and see how it went with the restaurant's cuisine. We were immediately told that their policy, not the law, was that they would not serve us a bottle of wine that had already been opened. Regardless of whether we paid the corkage or not. I find this unacceptable. They should clearly be aware that people are gonna be in The Valley doing tastings and might just bring some of those wines to have or finish at the restaurant. I find that policy unacceptable. But that policy did not stop their sommelier from asking us if he could taste that wine because he had smelled the cork and was intrigued. Being polite, We allowed him to have a taste but I find it hypocritical that I cannot drink it but the sommelier can. After we were seated our wait staff began hovering and frequently interrupting our conversation just to tell us how wonderful everything was. I have previously written that when this occurs it's almost as if they tell you this enough you might believe it, we were not fooled. The menu was interesting. There were some highlights and we were all able to find something. We decided against a tasting menu primarily because we felt it would take too long and we're not into long sit-down dinners anymore. The ladies had an asparagus appetizer which was good. I did not find it particularly unique though it had a simple Bearnaise zabion sauce with a very small garnish of caviar. I had a salad that was fairly simple and in fact, it tasted pretty much the same as the salad my wife makes at home. The French Onion soup was basic and not gourmet. The same for our entrees. Dessert was the highlight of the evening and was good. Overall our dinner was simply basic food and not particularly unique in any special manner that we could tell. The wait staff was overbearing and frequently interrupting which was a distraction. You could fool me they had a Michelin star.  There are multiple 1-star reviews on Trip Advisor that management has failed to respond to.  I guess they don't care.

https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g32766-d346529-r886061443-La_Toque-Napa_Napa_Valley_California.html#

Hog Island Oyster Bar

Located at Oxbow Market next to the Westin primarily an oyster bar but with other items as well. I had wonderful Mussels along with 4 fried oysters. I have gotten very ill eating raw oysters twice so I no longer do that but have never had a problem with well-cooked oysters. Except for my visit to Hog Island, as the fried oysters I had, I thought tasted a little off but not enough to not eat them only to have a brief stomach upset 6 hours later. Oysters are dangerous so beware. Otherwise, the food and service here are good and there is always a line to be seated.

Mustards

Mustards is our go-to place to eat in Napa for lunch or dinner. We have never had a bad meal here and this trip was no different. They are the ones who invented the wine list “Way Too Many Wines” and in two pages in small print they list over 1000 different wines and you can find something to satisfy your palate and budget. Our whole table started with a potato and leek soup that was to die for. It was just over-the-top wonderful. I had a pasta dish that was superior and took half home for dinner the next night. Service as usual was professional, prompt, and frankly fun. I will always go to Mustards in Napa on every trip.

Black Bear Restaurants

This is a growing chain all over the country but is primarily located on the West Coast. It is similar to a Denny’s and maybe Cracker Barrel but much more upscale. An extensive menu of comfort food for all meals. We had our last breakfast there and it was excellent and filling. It is a 5-minute drive from downtown Napa with plenty of parking so I recommend it for a quick meal.

Morimoto

Owned by the master himself located on the Napa Riverfront complex and outstanding Japanese restaurant worthy of its namesake. We took Drew Neiman there for lunch and he was shocked I ordered beer and not wine. My reason was they had Ashai Japanese beer which I rarely see anywhere so I simply could not pass up the chance to enjoy a bottle. There are many unique sushi and sashimi menu items along with cooked oysters so we had a variety of dishes all of which were tasty and great. Service was very professional and prompt. I have eaten at Morimoto's in London and this one was to me even better I recommend it for an authentic Japanese lunch with that Napa twist.

Gott’s Oxbow

Sister to Gott’s in St. Helena with the same menu plus some. Located at the Oxbow Market it is the same famous food as the original Gott’s and a bucket list place. Probably the best hamburgers and hot dogs on the planet. I had one of each. I have been told every time you eat a hot dog you lower your life expectancy by 15 minutes. So if you want to commit hot dog suicide clearly this is the place to do it. They do have other options. When we had lunch they had a Cuban Sandwich option that looked perfect. We will always try to eat at Gott’s when we are in town.  Both places are always busy.

Oenotri, 1425 1st Street downtown Napa

We had dinner there as one of our La Chaine dine-around dinners. It is an Italian place with a Napa flair. It is very crowded and noisy. I enjoyed the food and thought it was excellent especially the pasta. They served a lamb dish that turned out to be shredded lamb that at least on presentation was poor. It didn’t taste bad but it just was not a high-quality dish. For what you received the price was fairly high but it appears to be a favorite of locals and it was one of the few Italian places around. But truthfully if I am in Napa again and want Italian my choice would be Bistro Giovanni on Highway 29 north of town.

Angele

Owner Bettina Rouols has put together an amazing culinary team led by Chef Josue Alvarado under the direction of manager Kelly Mitchell-Jacks. We had lunch here last year with our Napa agent and remember it as a good and relaxing lunch. I am uncertain why I did not mention it last year but my overall memory was good so we decided to have lunch there. It is easy to find as it is on the Napa Riverfront shopping area next to the Napa General Store. We were immediately seated inside and after reviewing the menu and wine list choose our selections. I for one had a memorable Sole dish that was perfectly prepared and tasty. Our server Greg Oranges was professional and provided some of the best service during our visit. We had been disappointed in our dining choices the previous day but lunch at Angele restored our faith in the Napa dining scene. Both the lunch and wine menus provide a good mixture of choices, everything is prepared in-house from fresh ingredients, and the atmosphere is calming and relaxing. Frankly, it was our best lunch all week. I highly recommend it.

Napa General Store breakfast

At the south end of the Napa Riverfront complex, this is a small quaint local general store that primarily is a breakfast and lunch place. It has local products as well as a small wine bar and a nice outside seating area. We had breakfast there and were pleased with the food and service and the price was reasonable. I recommend it.

Oxbow Market

A small market with multiple small local shops and restaurants or cafes. It continues to be a fun place and we went there daily to do or get something. The wine shop is a favorite run by Michael Myers and he gets some rare and good stuff as well as a lot of cheese you will enjoy. There are two places open for breakfast and coffee that are good as well as a small produce market for those interested.

Vineyards and Vitners

Neiman Vineyards, Napa California

I was able to make another half-day trip to visit Drew Neiman of Neiman Vineyards, especially to taste his world-famous Chardonnay. For those who don’t remember Drew was an assistant winemaker at John Konnsgaurd Wines, arguably the best French style Chardonnay in the USA with Drew racing to overcome them.   After working for John for many years Drew now makes his own wine under his own label and so far has sold out every vintage, a testament to the high quality and taste of his wines.

2019 Neiman Chardonnay

I have just drank 4 bottles of this wine in the past 2 days. It is outstanding. The grapes come from the Haynes vineyard in Coombsville. These old Wente selection vines were planted in 1967. These grapes always made their way into the Newton unfiltered Chardonnay along with Kongsgaard estate grapes through the 2005 vintage when Kongsgaard left Newton to start his own brand Kongsgaard Wines. The Kongsgaard estate(Stonecrest vineyard) now goes solely into the Kongsgaard Judge Chardonnay which is $275 a bottle on the mailing list but $800-$900 a bottle in the secondary market. A complex floral bouquet with pear, nectarine, honeysuckle, and apple is followed by a highly balanced complex mixture of the same tastes with moderate acidity and a hint of oak. When you first open the bottle and drink immediately you notice more oak but once exposed to air for a few minutes the wine settles down into a pleasant complex tasting wine. Drew corrected me saying his wines are not ‘over Oaked” which in general I agree with, but sometimes as he puts it may be a little “under wined”. The finish of the 2019 is long and smooth. It seems to get better and better as it ages and has a few more years of aging before it reaches its full potential. I can’t wait to taste it say around 2026. Drew corrects me in that he says I won't have any to drink in 2026 at the rate I currently drink it.  In terms of the 2019 being slightly oakier than the 2016 and 2020 Drew points out that the 2019 was 100% new French oak with M+ toast. The wood came from the Allier forest same as the 2016 and 2020. The difference is that in 2019 one barrel was from the Vosgues forest which is slightly warmer than the Allier forest. The Allier wood is lighter, which gives off fewer wood aromatics and flavors. The Vosgues wood grows faster so it is less tight yielding slightly woodier aromatics and flavors.

2020 Neiman Chardonnay

A triumph of almost spiritual caliber. I was the first human to taste the 2020 out of the bottle, a true honor from Drew. The description of the 2019 applies to the 2020, in many ways it is the same wine. But there was a higher level and smoothness to the 2020 elevating it. To me, it was much more smooth and seamless, and more hedonistic. Regrettably, 2020 was a low production year and there will be less to buy. But get what you can now, or what Drew will let you have as you will not regret it. Hopefully, 2021 will be as good with higher production.

2018 Fallen Red

To me, this red from Drew exhibited beautiful fruit. It certainly was not “under wined”. I thought it has a “sweet” bouquet, most likely just an abundance of fruit. There was a good tannin backbone and I did “pucker” up with the wine. That I believe was from the 30% of Cab Franc’s presence. But it still was balanced and pleasant and will age for decades.

2019 ‘Las Posada” Cabernet Sauvingnon

Drew buys grapes from this vineyard and the wine is 100% Cab. The owner of the vineyard is David Abreu, a friend of Drew’s, who is the vineyard manager of Screaming Eagle. It turns out that a friend of the vineyards also likes Screaming Eagle and he gets together with his buddies to drink Screaming Eagle and compare it to Drew’s and David’s Las Posada Cab. According to the sources I spoke with they think Drew’s Cab is “Drew Screaming Eagle’ and comparable to Screaming Eagle. The Las Posada’s was well balanced and complex with moderate acid. Again I found a slight sweetness to the bouquet and taste demonstrating the fruit-forward appeal of the wine. I could find no flaws and I felt the oak was light and not overly done. I am looking forward to comparing it to Screaming Eagle in a future tasting.

2019 Red Wine Blend

The same grapes above from Las Posada's Vineyard only blended with 30% Cab Franc.  It is tighter and bolder than the pure Cab one which you expect with the addition of Cab Franc. It is just not the style I prefer. Other than more tannin and bolder it was close to the above wine. It certainly will age for a very long time and needs age to calm down a little, maybe 10 years. Price wise it is a lower price point than the pure Cab. Tasted side by side they clearly were similar as the grapes from Cab are the same. It should be easier to obtain due to the blending so should be more widely available and the wine of choice for many. But if you can I still recommend the pure Cab as a higher luxury.

Sequoia Grove

Our friend Oscar(707-815-7602) who helps us out when we are in Napa is the manager at Sequoia Grove. I give you his phone number as he is our go-to guy in Napa when we need recommendations and help. Feel free to call him if you are in the area and arrange a visit and meet him. He is a great resource to have. We purchased their current Chardonnay for our house Chardonnay and it was a fresh fruity straightforward wine with a hint of pleasant oak. They have good reds but we just don’t drink enough red to justify buying any. Sequoia Grove is one of the vineyards whose claim to fame is cheap shipping. I recommend stopping and tasting and if you like the wine buy it as they will ship it for you for $10 a case which is a huge bargain.

Ramey Vineyards with David Ramey

We tasted the Ramey 2018 Pinot Noir and 2020 Ramey Chardonnay and both were ok with the Pinot being the best one. David has been making Chardonnay in the Valley for over 40 years and has a ton of experience and stories to match. It was nice to attend a tasting with him. I learned a couple of new things from him as well as reinforcing some old things. He emphasized that there is in fact tannin in white wine as tannin primarily comes from the skin. He is big on batonnage where they daily punch down and stir the initial must of the wine to extract flavor from the skin. He is using Diam corks now as they are more consistent with oxygen exchange for the wine while in the bottle, known as OTR or oxygen transfer rate. Diam corks are corks from Portugal cut up into tiny pieces treated and then pressed into new corks and there is a number of different OTRs for these corks dependent on what the winemaker hopes to achieve. So far Diam corks have not contaminated wine with TCA. He does experiment with concrete egg barrels but feels the lime in concrete neutralizes the acid being a detriment to the wine so he has different treatments and cleansers for the barrels prior to putting wine in them. He was clear that new oak should be used in small amounts as new oak means more oak in the wine.

2020 Ramey Fort Seaview Chardonnay

Not a lot of fruit on the nose but I could smell acid on the nose.  The taste is the same with a predominance of acid on the palate.  To me, the wine had more acid than the fruit and was not as balanced as I would like.  Again Ok and with the acid concentration would be a good match with the right food.

2018 Ramey Russian River Pinot Noir

Overall better than the Chard.  It had a nice smoky nose and cherry smell and taste.  The flavors were well integrated.  Not particularly complex but still nice.  It had a good finish and light oak.  Overall a nice basic California Pinot.

Rams Gate Vineyards

2019 Estate Chardonnay

Starts with a light bouquet with a low fruit smell and taste and light oak.  The taste was tart so some tannin.  There was some complexity with the tastes of pear and apple.  Again an increased prominent acid that should go well with food.  The finish was OK but overall it was not anything unique though well made.  I pegged it as a good $35 bottle of wine and was surprised the vineyard price was $75.

2019 Rams Gate Pinot Noir

A rustic nose with some cherry smell but light.  Not complex mostly cherry flavor but also very tart and made me pucker up so a lot of tannins.  It had a short finish.  The issue price is $70 which to me was too high for what you get.  

2019 Rams Gate Syrah

Of all the Rams Gate wines this was the best.  Plenty of good fruit on the nose and taste with some complexity.  I tasted licorice.  It is a basic Rhone-style wine with a moderate finish and moderate acid balanced well with the tannin.  Again a high price for a Syrah at $70 a bottle.

Chateau Montalena 2016 Chardonnay poured out of double magnum

Plenty of oak and fruit on the nose with some mild residual sugar but well balanced.  A feminine wine with light oak and low tannin.  It had a moderately pleasant finish.  A good basic Chardonnay consistent from year to year and a good buy usually on a restaurant wine list.  

Pella/KNA wines

2021 SANNA Sauvignon Blanc * Napa Valley

Seventy-five cases were bottled in 2021 from 100% Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc grapes, following a cold-fermentation in stainless steel, with primary fermentation finishing around 4 weeks and no residual sugar. Named for the winemaker’s daughter, SANNA Sauvignon Blanc is the personal label of Kristof & Jennifer Anderson, known for vins de terroir of distinction. 100% dry. 12.5% alcohol. There was a tart acid nose. The taste was light and velvety with mostly apple taste with a hint of grapefruit. A nice basic Sauvignon Blanc at $42 a bottle.

2019 Keller "oro de Plata" Petaluma Gap Sonoma

Stainless steel fermented and aged in neutral oak, it is a lovely take on the cool-climate appellation. Comparable to a Chablis style Chardonnay. It still has tartness and tannin which to me was a little bitter along with high acid.

No Bad Wine Before it's time

Remember Ernest and Julio Gallo’s old-time TV commercials. We will sell no wine until it’s time? I know I have said over and over again no one makes bad wine anymore. Winemakers don’t get up in the morning and say let's see how we can make cheap undrinkable wine today. In fact, I am certain they say the exact opposite. What can I do today to make the next great 100-point wine in the world? To a point wine making technique is pretty much made the same the world over. Close to 100% of winemakers graduate from the University with a degree in winemaking. The most famous most of us know is the University of California at Davis. And even after that many winemakers continue to go to school. In Burgundy, France all winemakers are required to take a specific one-year winemaking course peculiar to the Burgundy region.

So if no one makes bad wine why am I dedicating a new article to the subject? Last month I went to a charity function and as part of the games and prizes offered was a ring toss game where when your ring landed on a bottle of wine you won that bottle or any one of your choosing. As part of the game, there were approximately 50 different wines to throw your ring at. As I watched the festivities I realized I would never buy or drink any of those wines and there were quite a few to choose from. So if none of them were bad why would I not want any of them? I sort of felt a dilemma coming on and frankly, maybe my own opinion was hypocritical.

So what is going on? I have been to vineyards all over the wine and spent weeks watching and learning how winemakers make wine and especially their philosophies on how to craft a specific style of wine. After thought, it dawned on me basically why these lower-priced and less recognizable wines are there and I for one am, not interested in buying or drinking them, it really goes back to the Ernest and Julio Gallo commercial. They will sell no wine “before it’s time”. Making good wine takes a lot of time, years sometime, and can be very expensive. The key to making great wine is harvesting wine when the grapes have grown to perfect maturation. Winemakers have all kinds of tools to help them make the decision as to when to pick the grapes. They have computers that track the day-to-day weather changes and compare them to years past to get a read on what is going to be the best day to pick. They use Brix meters, a small tool with a needle they stick into a grape to measure the sugar or Brix level in the grape. The better ones who have been around a lifetime put a raw grape in their mouths and taste the grape which elevates it to an art form. Winemakers know that the best day to pick is at optimal maturation which means just the right amount of sugar concentration in the grape that when fermented will produce the best wine.

So what do the less expensive wine makers do? They pick the grapes early and pick before optimal sugar maturation has occurred. Time is money so they pick too early but not so early that the wine is not at least good. They also don’t spend a lot of time aging wines or pampering the wines in the production facility. The way they make wine is to speed up the process to get the wines in the bottle and onward to your wine shop in the shortest time they can get away with. Hence drinkable pleasant wine but nothing that will age or get any better and those wines will certainly never develop with complexity.

No the wine is not bad. But it is picked and made fast before the grapes have had enough time to mature to perfection. Ernest and Julio Gallo were right on. You don’t pick and make wine before it’s time. It’s funny but as a physician, I am aware that most medical schools in the world have a minimum age to enter medical school so that you have a minimal level of maturity to excel at the medical curriculum in regards to not only the technical aspects of medicine but also to be able to have a level of emotional and spiritual maturing to deal with the rigors of day to day practice. I have not heard anyone say they cannot wait to see the new 16-year-old doctor even though he is probably a genius having graduated from high school at 10.

Chateau Pommard Wines

Kudos to Jeff & Cindy Coggin from Coggin Travel Agency, Atlanta, Georgia who put together an outstanding cruise along the Snake and Columbia Rivers following the Lewis & Clark trail where every evening at dinner we had a white and red Chateau Pommard wine.  Chateau Pommard has been around for centuries, originally founded in 1725,  but was purchased and upgraded a few years ago by Michael Baum who continues to make outstanding terroir driven wine from this vineyard.  I encourage you to take a trip to Burgundy to visit the vineyard.  You can't miss it it is one of the first vineyards you will see on the southern wine trail leaving Beaune.  They also have a direct to consumer program with reasonable shipping and ship to most states in the USA.  You can contact them here:

https://www.chateaudepommard.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw5ZSWBhCVARIsALERCvyp5aX1C_62SadSDfdYzAfqjycoxwUQ1ll9Rtd4XI9rLzST1178ihYaAua1EALw_wcB

Chateau Pommard White Burgundy

Meursault 2015

This appellation has been around since the Middle Ages. One of my favorite families lives in the Village of Meursault in the shadow of the Church Bell tower, the Matrot’s who have been there for generations. As a rule, I do not favor Meursault finding them too much minerality, which some like better than me. I was in the minority on this one as many felt it was wimpy but I found that made it more approachable and pleasant. I called it “Meursault lite”. It was fairly complex on the nose and taste but understated. I tasted butter, a little smoke but subdued flint. There was good acidity making it a nice food-friendly wine. Yes, it lacked body but overall was a well-made basic entry-level Meursault and one that I could see buying.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 2016

For many the greatest Chardonnay in the world is French Montrachet, a small vineyard worked by around 25 producers, some owning only 3 vines. The area itself goes back to Medieval times and over the years was divided into Puligny and Chassagne communes where today there are distinct villages present. As a rule, the Chassange’s are felt to be “softer” and more “feminine” but as usual, that may be a personal bias of some. In addition, as you will note later, Chassagne is one of the “white” areas that produce some “reds”. This particular “village” wine by Chateau Pommard is a basic simple Chassange-Montrachet with lots of fruit on the nose and flavor profile. A fairly classic Chassagne with primary flavors of vanilla and lemon and a hint of almond and hazelnut. There is a sense of minerality but to me, it is more in the background and not as pronounced as you find in a Puligny. It has an adequate acid skeleton which makes it food-friendly.

Santenay 1er Cru La Maladiere 2017

Fairly south in the Cote de Or this commune produces lighter whites with a continued mineral character due to fairly consistent clay/limestone soil which concentrates the terroir of the wine. Santenay is another southern Cote de Or area that makes red Burgundy but continues to make nice whites also. This particular wine could be described as having a balance of lime and vanilla in the nose and taste. For years California Chardonnay’s have been made at times attempting to have some lime and “green” color to the wine. It simply adds to the complexity which only adds to the allure of the wine. I clearly found pear, lemon, and apple here and some honeysuckle. It was a delightful wine with dinner and I highly recommend it, especially with buttery fish dishes.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru “Morgeot” 2018

A single vineyard premier cru white Burgundy that frankly a few vintners make wine from. This particular wine has a hedonistic nose and a flavor profile emphasizing lemon and vanilla. The oak is there but restrained. It is well balanced and the acid is right making the wine food-friendly. There is plenty of minerality in the wine but the fruit is equal to the minerality. An above-average wine with a reasonable price profile worth purchasing.

Ladoix 1er Cru Les Grechons 2018

I have now had this wine multiple times and all tastings have been very consistent. It is a little higher in acid when compared to other wines in the region but that only makes it more food-friendly especially with spicy food as well as shellfish. It should be remembered that these grapes come from the higher plots on the hill of Corton so one way to think of this wine is it is similar to the Grand Cru Corton Charlemagne at a significantly lower price. There is a lot of fruit smell and tastes a little different featuring flowers like honeysuckle, pineapple, and grapefruit with a hint of tart apple. Some tasters found mango, I thought maybe. Noted to have a long finish demonstrating the power of the wine.

Chateau Pommard Red Burgundy

Chambolle-Musigny 2017

When you spend as much time as I have in Burgundy and listen to the actual people who live there and make the wine you learn a lot that you do not learn from the distributors. Many years ago winemakers from the region advised me as far as they were concerned Chambolle-Musigny Red Burgundy was the benchmark that all Red Burgundies should be judged against and that it was your basic Red Burgundy and the one that the French preferred. I must admit once I started drinking them I was convinced. They are driven by ripe fruit on a foundation of limestone and flint background that gives them a unique taste. This one did not fail. The nose had fruit and limestone in a balanced profile. There is a velvet mouth feel and everything was balanced including the tannins which were subdued and elegant against a balanced acidity. There was a good finish. I agree it is drinkable now with some aging potential though my experience with 2017 burgundies, which I love, may not be as long as others.

Volnay 1er Cru 2017

Volnay is a commune close to Pommard in the Cote de Beaune somewhat on the upslope and is noted for having more mineral in the red wines and can compare to Monthelie which is adjacent. To me, 2017 was a great year in Burgundy and I continue to enjoy a wide variety of 2017s. I enjoyed this one which demonstrated a good level of complexity with flavors in the nose and the taste of cherry, blackberry, and blackcurrant. There was an earthy component one would expect. Balanced with a good finish it should have some aging potential as tannins and acid were balanced and adequate to maintain a good body to the wine.

Maranges 1er Cru Clos des Loyeres 2018

A fairly new commune making wine since 1988 south of the Cote de Or and close to Chagny and north of Rully and Mercurey the reds tend to have a mineral character reflective of the terroir of clay and limestone soil in the area. 2018 was another good year produced in this wine a more concentrated Pinot with an adequate fruit profile with cherry flavors and hints of flowers. The tannins were to be smooth and both tannin and acid integration were balanced and the wine had a good finish. The wine had a lighter body than some but the balanced complexity made the wine a pleasant quaff with dinner.

Chassange-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot 2016

Almost from the exact same vineyard but a premier cru red Burgundy from the southern Cote de Or. This wine has a good body and tannin structure and clearly presents both in the nose and flavor with characteristic cherry flavor along with a complexity including blackberry and currant and licorice is present with a hint of smoke. Balanced and velvety are words that come to mind. Well made worth aging.

Clos Marey-Monge Monopole 2008

Monopole means what you think it means. The vineyard completely owns and operates that vineyard without sharing it with anyone. This particular red Burgundy has been one of the main vineyards of Chateau Pommard going back 3 centuries. The winemaker Emmanuel Sala says this wine offers complexity along with subtlety and is like an Irish step dance, light but perpetual. I found it to have a little more body than that but clearly complex. The nose and flavor are classic red Burgundy with lots of cherry along with a spicy character. It comes from 7 single plots so with blending you might expect a somewhat flavor profile from year to year but it is a well-made wine with meticulous attention to detail. It was one of the best wines of the week and highly recommended.

Happy Holidays! California Dreaming, The Good, The Bad, The Ugly and the Final Chapter, Restaurant, Wine Shop, and Market Reviews

Alas, my work is done.  It has been a long but rewarding effort to provide you with some great information to help with your next trip to San Francisco, Napa, and Newport Beach.   All, especially Napa are magical places with some of the best the world has to offer.  After close now to 40 years of visiting still gives me goose bumps while I am there and when I leave I have a longing to return.  A place that you will never grow tired of.  As the year ends I wish my loyal readers a safe, healthy, happy, and joy-filled Holiday season and Happy New Year!

Restaurant Reviews

Newport Beach California

R+D Kitchen

Newport Beach CA in Fashion Mall

555 Newport Center Drive

949-219-0555

My wife and I have now eaten here multiple times on each trip to Southern California and it has turned into one of our favorite places, especially for lunch. They have absolutely the best French Dip sandwich I have ever had with mountains of fresh finely cut roast beef on a fresh-baked soft baguette and tasty dipping sauce. There is always a line out the door with locals cramming to get in. They also have one in Napa Valley in the Rutherford area and our friends had dinner at that one who also stated their dinner was great. The one in Napa Valley you definitely need reservations because it was close to impossible to get into that one. In general fresh well-prepared food by well-trained professional and friendly servers. I can’t wait to return in the future.

San Francisco California

Miller and Lux San Francisco

700 Terry A Francois Blvd

San Francisco, CA

415-872-6699

Miller and Lux is a steakhouse owned and operated by celebrity chef Tyler Florence whom we met briefly as we departed after dinner. The food and service are excellent and the decor is high-end and relaxing. Immediately after sitting down, you are offered a selection of sparkling wine to choose from at various price points. I was impressed with the Lobster Thermador one of my old favorite dishes you almost never see anymore. The restaurant has a wide variety of classic steak cuts and accompaniments also. They allow you to bring your own wine with a modest corkage fee. Overall it was a memorable meal but the prices were the highest we paid on our trip and the wine prices on the wine list were in La La land. Chef Tyler made many visits into the dining area to speak with regular customers and friends but otherwise, he did not visit your table, something I find a problem. To me, if the Chef comes out to speak with friends it only takes a minute or two extra I would hope to just stop by every table and say hello, how’s dinner.

Kokkari Estiatorio Greek Restaurant

200 Jackson St.

San Francisco, CA 94111

415-981-0983

This was our second favorite place in San Francisco. It is primarily a high-end Greek Restaurant with all your favorites like great lamb souvlaki. They had an extensive wine list and I had my first bottle of Kongsgaard Chardonnay during the trip. Both the sommelier and busboy went to extreme trouble to help us find suppliers of that wine in the area and their recommendations led us directly to places where we were able to buy it by the case. Very friendly and helpful staff and well prepared fresh food. I had the lamb souvlaki with a Greek salad that was sublime. It was a very nice long relaxing lunch and we will return. The only downside if any was the bill was the second-highest during our trip and it was for lunch no less but to us worth the price.

Johns Grill, San Francisco

63 Ellis St.

San Francisco CA 94102

415-986-0069

John’s Grill is one of the oldest continuous restaurants in the city. It has been there for decades. Nothing fancy but good well-prepared food with friendly service and a reasonable price. The menu is pretty basic but a good selection and something for everyone. A good selection of seafood and plenty of great steaks.

Bix

56 Gold Street

San Francisco CA 94133

415-433-6300

Another oldie but goodie that will take you back to the good old days. Bix is a supper club with a 1930’s ambiance with live jazz and serving American-French cuisine. The menu leans towards seafood and at the same time serves marrow bones as a separate item which I have never seen on a menu before. The service was excellent and the live jazz piano was definitely a plus. I really felt like I was in the Casablanca Movie. Play it again Sam!

Mathilde San Francisco

315 5th St.

San Francisco CA 94107

415-546-6128

It is no secret we like French cuisine and this place satisfied all of our French desires. Everything is a classic French presentation and all of our favorites. I eventually settled in for the basics having escargots and Coq au Vin. The escargots were identical in taste and quality to any I have ever had in Burgundy. The Coq au Vin was classic and just downright delicious. The service was professional and friendly. Coffee and dessert were again classic and we had an obscene number of Profiteroles and probably gained 10 pounds just from dessert. It’s a small and out-of-the-way place but worth the trip for classic French.

Foreign Cinema San Francisco

2534 Mission St.

San Francisco CA 94110

415-648-7600

Let me be very clear here. This is absolutely the best most fun and unique dining experience and high-top shelf experience I have had in years. You would never know it looking at the front door with a bitcoin seller next door and a payroll advance store across the street. It is in one of those urban recovery areas where the area used to be a high crime and drug den area the city is trying to rehabilitate. As we speak today it is a safe area but it still looks rough and the only way you know where the restaurant is, is for the small sign over the door. What a wonderful dinner and Clark and I are seriously thinking of a weekend trip to SFO just to return there and have dinner again. The restaurant is in an old movie theater and inside the dining room is divided into two rooms one of which shows an old movie each evening and that is the theme of the night. The night we were there the movie was “Gentleman Prefer Blonds” with Marilyn Monroe. You sit at the usual white cloth dining table with family and friends while they play the movie as you eat. I didn’t recall any sound so you just see the movie. The menu was extensive and everything is made in-house fresh. One example. They make their own sardines. I am not a sardine fan but they were recommended and wow, unbelievable. I now like sardines. Fresh, not fishy, tasty, and great. The menu both for food, wine, dessert wines, cocktails, drinks is extensive and takes some time to take in. You had to be impressed that they had 5 different renditions of “Pappy” Old Rip Van Winkle Whiskey from 12 years old to 23 years old. It is one of the rarest whiskey in the world and to find all of them on one menu is impressive. The American Whiskey choices alone were over 50 choices. Dining choices were unique. Just one example is Saffron risotto galettes with roasted honeynut squash with matsutake mushrooms, English pea puree, tapenade, and toum and zoug. They also had an extensive list of oysters and caviar as well. Service was professional and attentive and the overall ambiance was relaxed and calming. It was just a truly unique and wonderful dining experience that we will remember for a long long time.

Napa and St. Helena Area

Bistro Don Giovanni

4110 Howard Ln

Napa, CA 94558

707-224-3300

Don Giovanni's was one of the first places we had dinner close to 40 years ago and it is still going strong and expanded to 3X the size we recall.  Fresh pasta, fresh fish, and attentive friendly service, and just great Italian food.  Reservations are a must, though we had no real trouble getting in.  They were full and busy but you do learn when you go to Napa the "Napa lifestyle" and Napa cuisine seems to reign supreme here.  I had pasta with fresh in-house made basil pesto sauce and I can assure you once you have freshly made basil pesto you won't be able to go back to store-bought again.  In fact, we now make our own in-house fresh basil pesto at home.  We had a great meal at Don Giovanni's and we will return in the future.

 

Mustard's Grill

7399 St Helena Hwy

Napa CA 94558

707-944-2424

Directly across from Del Dotto's caves one of the best and oldest places in Napa.  A word of warning don't eat lunch here and then do a tour of Del Dotto after in that for us at least Del Dotto includes a pizza lunch with your tasting and we were absolutely stuffed by 4 PM.  Mustard’s has been here for now over 40 years to our knowledge and we come to every visit and in all those years it remains probably the top 3 places in the valley. Food and service are top-notch and like everyone else farm to table fresh and well prepared. Their wine list is 13x19 inches small fine print front and back and labeled “Way too Many Wines”. Think Bern’s Steakhouse in Tampa on one piece of paper. They had many wines you will never ever see anywhere. One example we had was John Kongsgaard Albarino which I did not know existed. Another one you will not find often is American Expat in France is Alex Gamble Aligote. I always look forward to going to Mustards and you should also.

Goose and Gander St. Helena

1245 Spring St

St Helena CA 94574

707-967-8779 

Another very unique place to dine. A great eclectic menu with standard favorites thrown in with unique items like roasted bone marrow, garden radishes with dip, and fried olives and pistachios. One entree a bone in salmon chop I have never seen before. Like other establishments in the valley, they had an extensive wine list again close to 1000 wines. Selections were primarily red and the prices were 3x retail and sometimes over so I recommend corkage here especially if you want white wine. Service was friendly and attentive and not overblown. We enjoyed it very much

Farmstead Long Meadow Branch St. Helena

738 Main St

St Helena CA 94574

707-963-4555

The poster child for the farm-to-table movement. Great food, extensive food, and wine menu you really cannot go wrong here. For some insane reason I and another friend had the 12 hours pulled pork sandwich and coming from the South we know barbecue and would think we would have ordered something more in line with California cuisine. But I must tell you surprisingly it was a great barbecue and very tender. They also serve ribs. Overall the food was very fresh and well prepared. There are way over 500 to 600 wines to choose from and the prices are OK at 2X retail. It’s a great place to go and recommended.

Gott's Roadside

933 Main St (Highway 29)

St Helena CA 94574

This is a bucket list kind of place.  They are like the original McDonalds burger joints with outside wooden tables to sit on and the best hamburger, hot dog, and fries you will ever have as you drink your own bottle of Screaming Eagle.  In our case Scarecrow.  I have only been able to eat there once and this last trip there was a 2-hour wait just to order.  The place was jammed and parking was blocks away.  Is it that good?  Yes, it is.  They are now branching out and we saw the establishment at Oxbow Market which we also recommend you visit in downtown Napa.  You really have to go to experience it and I recommend you try and show up when they first start serving to shortcut the lines.

Wine and Market Shops worth Visiting

California offers extensive places to eat and shop providing items you simply will not find elsewhere.  The following places are ones that we go to almost every time we go as they provide us with opportunities we cannot find in Florida.  We highly recommend all of them as they provide reasonable prices and exceptional help and service during your visit.  Most all of them have mailing lists we recommend you join and all will ship directly to your home dependent on your State laws, but definitely to Florida as we have had no problems with any of them.

Newport Beach Area

Hi-Times Wine Cellars

250 Ogle St

Costa Mesa CA 92627

949-650-8463

A very large wine store with thousands of selections, great specials, and unique wines from all over the world.  Every visit just walking around and looking takes me close to 2 hours.  I purchased wine here for a large birthday party for a friend and brought in the cost at well over 20% of what he intended to pay.  Plenty of bargains.

Wine Exchange

1544 E Warner Ave

Santa Ana CA 92705

714-979-1509

Located in an industrial area it is somewhat difficult to find but worth the effort.  Again lots of unique and unknown high-quality wines.  They have a "Grand Cru" or "1st Growth" room with plenty of wine to bankrupt you but at times some of the best prices I have seen.  One example is I have purchased most of the French Richeborgs in my cellar at around $250 a bottle which is at least 1/2 anywhere else.  No guarantee you find anything but when you do it is worth the visit.  They sell on an internet mailing list which I am on and ship directly to Florida and elsewhere when permitted with no problems.

San Francisco Area

K&L Wine Merchants, San Francisco Store

855 Harrison Street

San Francisco CA 94107

415-896-1794 

Another wine merchant from who I buy a lot of wine.  Multiple stores the one on Harrison Street is their main shop and is huge with an extremely varied selection of hard-to-find wines.  I have visited the Pitray Vineyard in the Cadillac region of the Right Bank in Bordeaux and visited with the Count and his wife in their castle there twice and it is a very low production good wine that we have shipped from France.  I was blown away K&L had it at $15 a bottle.  I also spent almost the entire trip looking for Hirsch Chardonnay and never found it until the last day of our trip visiting K&L.  I am on their "advantage" list or internet mailing list and so far their prices have been some of the lowest I have seen even with door-to-door shipping.

Napa Valley Winery Exchange

Rick Jones, Owner

415 Taylor Street

San Francisco CA 94102

415-297-1074 cell

415-771-2887

A much smaller wine shop in town but well worth the trouble.  The owner and staff are extremely knowledgeable regarding all wines and attend wine tastings extensively and take extensive notes and share them with you.  They provided some of the most wine knowledge and recommendations we received on our trip.  The owner is a stand-up guy and will help you a lot.  I was a lot of fun just to stop by and talk shop.

Napa Valley Area

Gary's Napa

607 St Helena Highway

St Helena CA 94574

707-531-7660

This used to be a Dean & Deluca and was recently purchased by a private owner.  It is the same place with lots of gourmet food and wine, cheese, food, etc.  Most of the wine is very high-end.  If you want Scarecrow and such this is the place to go.  A good selection of wine and helpful knowledgeable staff.

Oxbow Cheese & Wine Merchant

Michael Meyers, "Chief Wine Wisdom Officer"

610 First Street

Napa CA 94559

707-819-6126

The Oxbow Market in downtown Napa is now a bucket list kind of place.  It has about 20 inside cafes and shops with lots of goodies, none better than the Oxbow Cheese & Wine Merchant at the back of the building managed by a wonderful wine expert Michael Meyers and a pleasure to speak with.  Tell him Ross sent you.  He provided me with my first ever significant allocation of John Kongsgaard Chardonnay in my life and has other extensive wine holdings.  He also has lots of great cheese.  He will ship direct and has a internet following I recommend you get on.

Oakville Grocery

7856 St Helena Hwy

Oakville CA 94562

707-944-8802

Just like Mustard's Oakville Grocery has been in Napa since the beginning of time.  Lots of great gourmet food and nick-nacks for home and an extensive wine cellar and more importantly an extensive Champagne and very high-end wine selections to include Scarecrow and Screaming Eagle.  On our last day, I purchased a mixed case to take home on the plane and one example purchased 3 bottles of Nature-Champagne and in the past 30 years, I have only found 2 bottles of Nature-Champagne so they have some rare stuff.  They have recently added a wine tasting room next door and they have Scarecrow for sure at something like $40 a pour and yes it is a little high but a good price so you can say you tasted Scarecrow.  I assume in the future they will feature other high-end wines like that but you cannot beat the setup they have and plan on a visit while in Napa.