Saturday, April 22, 2023

The New Napa Valley 2023

We returned to Napa Valley to attend the Chaine des Rotisseurs Bailliage des Etats-Unis 2023 National Mondial Weekend. This is the first meeting since Covid and the last one was 4 years ago. So everyone was excited to be there and we had a great time experiencing fine dining and way too much wine. We went a few days early so we could meet with some Vitners and taste a few extra wines, why I am not sure, as always at Mondial meetings there is again way too much wine. We flew into Sacramento which some have questioned. Believe me, if you are traveling to Napa especially Sacramento is a much easier way to get there. It is a one-hour drive from the airport on 99% of 4-lane highways. For years we flew into San Francisco and driving to wine country from SFO and especially going home is a nightmare with frequent traffic jams. I once spent 5 hours on the Oakland Bridge and I said never again. Some days the schedules are not ideal for Sacramento but our return flights were almost direct, quick, and stress-free.

Westin Verasa Napa

We very much enjoyed our stay here and felt its location was great and the luxury of the place was great. We had a great comfortable room. Housekeeping was some of the best and they always met our requests without our having us repeat ourselves. The front desk was similarly always professional and helpful. Their poolscape and hot tub area were also one of the best we have seen. They are well-located downtown within reasonable walking distance to Copia, Oxbow Market, and Main Street. My only criticism is they need to improve their dining choices. We look forward to staying there again.

Restaurants

Bard at Westin Verasa

This is the hotel's cafe and casual breakfast, lunch, and dinner spot. Frankly, it is very small as well as the menu choices. Arriving late our first evening we had dinner there. The service was inexperienced and way too casual and had a hard time understanding what we wanted. There were few choices on the menu but the food preparation was good and we had an OK dinner. For a quick bite, it is adequate but sometimes when we arrive late after a long day of travel we liked to be pampered and cared for and this was not that kind of place.

La Torque Westin Verasa Napa

Sadly our greatly anticipated dinner at Le Torque at the Westin Hotel in Napa California was a huge disappointment. We had researched the restaurant and had found that it is Michelin-starred and it has a well-known chef, so our expectations were very high. Regrettably, our expectations were not met. To begin with our reservations for some reason were not clearly made and in addition, when we made our reservations with the hotel concierge, unknown to us, we were charged an upfront deposit that we were not told about and we only found out about it when our check was delivered which I find somewhat concerning. We had just arrived from a tasting at the vineyards and had a bottle of wine so we figured we would drink that and see how it went with the restaurant's cuisine. We were immediately told that their policy, not the law, was that they would not serve us a bottle of wine that had already been opened. Regardless of whether we paid the corkage or not. I find this unacceptable. They should clearly be aware that people are gonna be in The Valley doing tastings and might just bring some of those wines to have or finish at the restaurant. I find that policy unacceptable. But that policy did not stop their sommelier from asking us if he could taste that wine because he had smelled the cork and was intrigued. Being polite, We allowed him to have a taste but I find it hypocritical that I cannot drink it but the sommelier can. After we were seated our wait staff began hovering and frequently interrupting our conversation just to tell us how wonderful everything was. I have previously written that when this occurs it's almost as if they tell you this enough you might believe it, we were not fooled. The menu was interesting. There were some highlights and we were all able to find something. We decided against a tasting menu primarily because we felt it would take too long and we're not into long sit-down dinners anymore. The ladies had an asparagus appetizer which was good. I did not find it particularly unique though it had a simple Bearnaise zabion sauce with a very small garnish of caviar. I had a salad that was fairly simple and in fact, it tasted pretty much the same as the salad my wife makes at home. The French Onion soup was basic and not gourmet. The same for our entrees. Dessert was the highlight of the evening and was good. Overall our dinner was simply basic food and not particularly unique in any special manner that we could tell. The wait staff was overbearing and frequently interrupting which was a distraction. You could fool me they had a Michelin star.  There are multiple 1-star reviews on Trip Advisor that management has failed to respond to.  I guess they don't care.

https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g32766-d346529-r886061443-La_Toque-Napa_Napa_Valley_California.html#

Hog Island Oyster Bar

Located at Oxbow Market next to the Westin primarily an oyster bar but with other items as well. I had wonderful Mussels along with 4 fried oysters. I have gotten very ill eating raw oysters twice so I no longer do that but have never had a problem with well-cooked oysters. Except for my visit to Hog Island, as the fried oysters I had, I thought tasted a little off but not enough to not eat them only to have a brief stomach upset 6 hours later. Oysters are dangerous so beware. Otherwise, the food and service here are good and there is always a line to be seated.

Mustards

Mustards is our go-to place to eat in Napa for lunch or dinner. We have never had a bad meal here and this trip was no different. They are the ones who invented the wine list “Way Too Many Wines” and in two pages in small print they list over 1000 different wines and you can find something to satisfy your palate and budget. Our whole table started with a potato and leek soup that was to die for. It was just over-the-top wonderful. I had a pasta dish that was superior and took half home for dinner the next night. Service as usual was professional, prompt, and frankly fun. I will always go to Mustards in Napa on every trip.

Black Bear Restaurants

This is a growing chain all over the country but is primarily located on the West Coast. It is similar to a Denny’s and maybe Cracker Barrel but much more upscale. An extensive menu of comfort food for all meals. We had our last breakfast there and it was excellent and filling. It is a 5-minute drive from downtown Napa with plenty of parking so I recommend it for a quick meal.

Morimoto

Owned by the master himself located on the Napa Riverfront complex and outstanding Japanese restaurant worthy of its namesake. We took Drew Neiman there for lunch and he was shocked I ordered beer and not wine. My reason was they had Ashai Japanese beer which I rarely see anywhere so I simply could not pass up the chance to enjoy a bottle. There are many unique sushi and sashimi menu items along with cooked oysters so we had a variety of dishes all of which were tasty and great. Service was very professional and prompt. I have eaten at Morimoto's in London and this one was to me even better I recommend it for an authentic Japanese lunch with that Napa twist.

Gott’s Oxbow

Sister to Gott’s in St. Helena with the same menu plus some. Located at the Oxbow Market it is the same famous food as the original Gott’s and a bucket list place. Probably the best hamburgers and hot dogs on the planet. I had one of each. I have been told every time you eat a hot dog you lower your life expectancy by 15 minutes. So if you want to commit hot dog suicide clearly this is the place to do it. They do have other options. When we had lunch they had a Cuban Sandwich option that looked perfect. We will always try to eat at Gott’s when we are in town.  Both places are always busy.

Oenotri, 1425 1st Street downtown Napa

We had dinner there as one of our La Chaine dine-around dinners. It is an Italian place with a Napa flair. It is very crowded and noisy. I enjoyed the food and thought it was excellent especially the pasta. They served a lamb dish that turned out to be shredded lamb that at least on presentation was poor. It didn’t taste bad but it just was not a high-quality dish. For what you received the price was fairly high but it appears to be a favorite of locals and it was one of the few Italian places around. But truthfully if I am in Napa again and want Italian my choice would be Bistro Giovanni on Highway 29 north of town.

Angele

Owner Bettina Rouols has put together an amazing culinary team led by Chef Josue Alvarado under the direction of manager Kelly Mitchell-Jacks. We had lunch here last year with our Napa agent and remember it as a good and relaxing lunch. I am uncertain why I did not mention it last year but my overall memory was good so we decided to have lunch there. It is easy to find as it is on the Napa Riverfront shopping area next to the Napa General Store. We were immediately seated inside and after reviewing the menu and wine list choose our selections. I for one had a memorable Sole dish that was perfectly prepared and tasty. Our server Greg Oranges was professional and provided some of the best service during our visit. We had been disappointed in our dining choices the previous day but lunch at Angele restored our faith in the Napa dining scene. Both the lunch and wine menus provide a good mixture of choices, everything is prepared in-house from fresh ingredients, and the atmosphere is calming and relaxing. Frankly, it was our best lunch all week. I highly recommend it.

Napa General Store breakfast

At the south end of the Napa Riverfront complex, this is a small quaint local general store that primarily is a breakfast and lunch place. It has local products as well as a small wine bar and a nice outside seating area. We had breakfast there and were pleased with the food and service and the price was reasonable. I recommend it.

Oxbow Market

A small market with multiple small local shops and restaurants or cafes. It continues to be a fun place and we went there daily to do or get something. The wine shop is a favorite run by Michael Myers and he gets some rare and good stuff as well as a lot of cheese you will enjoy. There are two places open for breakfast and coffee that are good as well as a small produce market for those interested.

Vineyards and Vitners

Neiman Vineyards, Napa California

I was able to make another half-day trip to visit Drew Neiman of Neiman Vineyards, especially to taste his world-famous Chardonnay. For those who don’t remember Drew was an assistant winemaker at John Konnsgaurd Wines, arguably the best French style Chardonnay in the USA with Drew racing to overcome them.   After working for John for many years Drew now makes his own wine under his own label and so far has sold out every vintage, a testament to the high quality and taste of his wines.

2019 Neiman Chardonnay

I have just drank 4 bottles of this wine in the past 2 days. It is outstanding. The grapes come from the Haynes vineyard in Coombsville. These old Wente selection vines were planted in 1967. These grapes always made their way into the Newton unfiltered Chardonnay along with Kongsgaard estate grapes through the 2005 vintage when Kongsgaard left Newton to start his own brand Kongsgaard Wines. The Kongsgaard estate(Stonecrest vineyard) now goes solely into the Kongsgaard Judge Chardonnay which is $275 a bottle on the mailing list but $800-$900 a bottle in the secondary market. A complex floral bouquet with pear, nectarine, honeysuckle, and apple is followed by a highly balanced complex mixture of the same tastes with moderate acidity and a hint of oak. When you first open the bottle and drink immediately you notice more oak but once exposed to air for a few minutes the wine settles down into a pleasant complex tasting wine. Drew corrected me saying his wines are not ‘over Oaked” which in general I agree with, but sometimes as he puts it may be a little “under wined”. The finish of the 2019 is long and smooth. It seems to get better and better as it ages and has a few more years of aging before it reaches its full potential. I can’t wait to taste it say around 2026. Drew corrects me in that he says I won't have any to drink in 2026 at the rate I currently drink it.  In terms of the 2019 being slightly oakier than the 2016 and 2020 Drew points out that the 2019 was 100% new French oak with M+ toast. The wood came from the Allier forest same as the 2016 and 2020. The difference is that in 2019 one barrel was from the Vosgues forest which is slightly warmer than the Allier forest. The Allier wood is lighter, which gives off fewer wood aromatics and flavors. The Vosgues wood grows faster so it is less tight yielding slightly woodier aromatics and flavors.

2020 Neiman Chardonnay

A triumph of almost spiritual caliber. I was the first human to taste the 2020 out of the bottle, a true honor from Drew. The description of the 2019 applies to the 2020, in many ways it is the same wine. But there was a higher level and smoothness to the 2020 elevating it. To me, it was much more smooth and seamless, and more hedonistic. Regrettably, 2020 was a low production year and there will be less to buy. But get what you can now, or what Drew will let you have as you will not regret it. Hopefully, 2021 will be as good with higher production.

2018 Fallen Red

To me, this red from Drew exhibited beautiful fruit. It certainly was not “under wined”. I thought it has a “sweet” bouquet, most likely just an abundance of fruit. There was a good tannin backbone and I did “pucker” up with the wine. That I believe was from the 30% of Cab Franc’s presence. But it still was balanced and pleasant and will age for decades.

2019 ‘Las Posada” Cabernet Sauvingnon

Drew buys grapes from this vineyard and the wine is 100% Cab. The owner of the vineyard is David Abreu, a friend of Drew’s, who is the vineyard manager of Screaming Eagle. It turns out that a friend of the vineyards also likes Screaming Eagle and he gets together with his buddies to drink Screaming Eagle and compare it to Drew’s and David’s Las Posada Cab. According to the sources I spoke with they think Drew’s Cab is “Drew Screaming Eagle’ and comparable to Screaming Eagle. The Las Posada’s was well balanced and complex with moderate acid. Again I found a slight sweetness to the bouquet and taste demonstrating the fruit-forward appeal of the wine. I could find no flaws and I felt the oak was light and not overly done. I am looking forward to comparing it to Screaming Eagle in a future tasting.

2019 Red Wine Blend

The same grapes above from Las Posada's Vineyard only blended with 30% Cab Franc.  It is tighter and bolder than the pure Cab one which you expect with the addition of Cab Franc. It is just not the style I prefer. Other than more tannin and bolder it was close to the above wine. It certainly will age for a very long time and needs age to calm down a little, maybe 10 years. Price wise it is a lower price point than the pure Cab. Tasted side by side they clearly were similar as the grapes from Cab are the same. It should be easier to obtain due to the blending so should be more widely available and the wine of choice for many. But if you can I still recommend the pure Cab as a higher luxury.

Sequoia Grove

Our friend Oscar(707-815-7602) who helps us out when we are in Napa is the manager at Sequoia Grove. I give you his phone number as he is our go-to guy in Napa when we need recommendations and help. Feel free to call him if you are in the area and arrange a visit and meet him. He is a great resource to have. We purchased their current Chardonnay for our house Chardonnay and it was a fresh fruity straightforward wine with a hint of pleasant oak. They have good reds but we just don’t drink enough red to justify buying any. Sequoia Grove is one of the vineyards whose claim to fame is cheap shipping. I recommend stopping and tasting and if you like the wine buy it as they will ship it for you for $10 a case which is a huge bargain.

Ramey Vineyards with David Ramey

We tasted the Ramey 2018 Pinot Noir and 2020 Ramey Chardonnay and both were ok with the Pinot being the best one. David has been making Chardonnay in the Valley for over 40 years and has a ton of experience and stories to match. It was nice to attend a tasting with him. I learned a couple of new things from him as well as reinforcing some old things. He emphasized that there is in fact tannin in white wine as tannin primarily comes from the skin. He is big on batonnage where they daily punch down and stir the initial must of the wine to extract flavor from the skin. He is using Diam corks now as they are more consistent with oxygen exchange for the wine while in the bottle, known as OTR or oxygen transfer rate. Diam corks are corks from Portugal cut up into tiny pieces treated and then pressed into new corks and there is a number of different OTRs for these corks dependent on what the winemaker hopes to achieve. So far Diam corks have not contaminated wine with TCA. He does experiment with concrete egg barrels but feels the lime in concrete neutralizes the acid being a detriment to the wine so he has different treatments and cleansers for the barrels prior to putting wine in them. He was clear that new oak should be used in small amounts as new oak means more oak in the wine.

2020 Ramey Fort Seaview Chardonnay

Not a lot of fruit on the nose but I could smell acid on the nose.  The taste is the same with a predominance of acid on the palate.  To me, the wine had more acid than the fruit and was not as balanced as I would like.  Again Ok and with the acid concentration would be a good match with the right food.

2018 Ramey Russian River Pinot Noir

Overall better than the Chard.  It had a nice smoky nose and cherry smell and taste.  The flavors were well integrated.  Not particularly complex but still nice.  It had a good finish and light oak.  Overall a nice basic California Pinot.

Rams Gate Vineyards

2019 Estate Chardonnay

Starts with a light bouquet with a low fruit smell and taste and light oak.  The taste was tart so some tannin.  There was some complexity with the tastes of pear and apple.  Again an increased prominent acid that should go well with food.  The finish was OK but overall it was not anything unique though well made.  I pegged it as a good $35 bottle of wine and was surprised the vineyard price was $75.

2019 Rams Gate Pinot Noir

A rustic nose with some cherry smell but light.  Not complex mostly cherry flavor but also very tart and made me pucker up so a lot of tannins.  It had a short finish.  The issue price is $70 which to me was too high for what you get.  

2019 Rams Gate Syrah

Of all the Rams Gate wines this was the best.  Plenty of good fruit on the nose and taste with some complexity.  I tasted licorice.  It is a basic Rhone-style wine with a moderate finish and moderate acid balanced well with the tannin.  Again a high price for a Syrah at $70 a bottle.

Chateau Montalena 2016 Chardonnay poured out of double magnum

Plenty of oak and fruit on the nose with some mild residual sugar but well balanced.  A feminine wine with light oak and low tannin.  It had a moderately pleasant finish.  A good basic Chardonnay consistent from year to year and a good buy usually on a restaurant wine list.  

Pella/KNA wines

2021 SANNA Sauvignon Blanc * Napa Valley

Seventy-five cases were bottled in 2021 from 100% Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc grapes, following a cold-fermentation in stainless steel, with primary fermentation finishing around 4 weeks and no residual sugar. Named for the winemaker’s daughter, SANNA Sauvignon Blanc is the personal label of Kristof & Jennifer Anderson, known for vins de terroir of distinction. 100% dry. 12.5% alcohol. There was a tart acid nose. The taste was light and velvety with mostly apple taste with a hint of grapefruit. A nice basic Sauvignon Blanc at $42 a bottle.

2019 Keller "oro de Plata" Petaluma Gap Sonoma

Stainless steel fermented and aged in neutral oak, it is a lovely take on the cool-climate appellation. Comparable to a Chablis style Chardonnay. It still has tartness and tannin which to me was a little bitter along with high acid.





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