It is difficult to comprehend that a second opportunity arose to drink Screaming Eagle wine after only two years. Previously in February of 2021, I was honored to attend a 7 vintage vertical tasting of this famous wine(please see my blog WTFwithRoss.Blogspot.com Feb 2021). Opportunity knocked again so I put on my blue suede shoes and boarded the plane, and boy did I ever have a first-class ticket! This time to taste a 4-year vertical along with Second Flight and one of the rarest of wines, Screaming Eagle, white Sauvignon Blanc which most do not know exist. Dinner was in the private dining room of the Ritz Carlton Amelia Island hosted by Executive Chef Okan Kizilbayir and his staff who donated the dinner for charity. In 2021 money was raised for the abused woman's shelter in Nassau County. This year we are raising money for a unique cause, purchasing and outfitting a large RV that will have showers, laundry facilities, food, and social workers to travel around Nassau County to homeless encampments to provide services to the homeless. Nassau County is large and spread out so we don’t see the homeless in town or camped on the streets like in San Francisco so the RV will go to where the homeless are. To be sure the evening was spectacular and rare. What follows are my impressions of the wines and then my conclusions. In the past, I have added all the professional reviews of these wines but it tends to make the article too long so this time I list the ratings by the many professionals but I only have included the professional rating review that I felt most closely matched my comments.
2008 Dom Pérignon Brut Rosé Champagne
99 JS 97 WA 97 V 97 WS 95 D
97 points Wine Spectator
An impeccably balanced and graceful sparkling rosé, with a plushly creamy mousse. It's hard to tell where the firm spine of well-honed acidity and the expressive range of pureed raspberry, candied ginger, tangerine, and lemon thyme flavors begin or end. A rich hint of smoky toasted brioche plays on the finish. *Highly Recommended* (AN)
(11/2021)

The evening started with this Dom Perignon favorite. For me, it was a well-balanced Champagne, and the aroma and taste I described as “nutty”. I detected a hint of vanilla and raspberry demonstrating the complexity of the wine. I did not find anything overwhelming but it is obviously a well-made wine. Many of the guests at the function expressed a firm liking of the wine. It had a good lingering aftertaste that was not bitter and was pleasant. On a 20-point scale, I graded it a 17.
2019 Screaming Eagle Sauvignon Blanc
There are no professional ratings of this wine. The primary reason being is that it is probably the rarest wine on the planet. Initially intended for private use only there are now a couple of bottles released each year to the mailing list and we were highly fortunate to have it included in our tasting. It is a unique wine and my overall impression was it was more like a Pinot Grigio than a Sauvignon Blanc. Across everything it was on first impression a simple unassuming wine. The bouquet was weak but after a while, I did detect lemon and apple. There was no hint of grapefruit something most Sauvignon Blancs have. It was a low-acid wine making it great for sipping and watching the sunset. Despite being simple there was a hint of finish that lingered. On a 20-point scale, I rated it 14 but do not let that sway you to the dark side as it was in truth a very good wine. Just a wine that walked softly.
2014 Screaming Eagle "Second Flight" Oakville Bordeaux Blend 97 JS 96 WA 95 D 95 JD 94 V
96 points Wine Advocate
Very deep purple-black, the 2014 Second Flight (composed of 57% Merlot and 43% Cabernet Sauvignon with no Cabernet Franc) is a little closed at this youthful stage, offering glimpses of blueberry compote, blackberry pie, and cassis notions with touches of garrigue, bay leaves, black truffles, rose hips and underbrush plus a hint of wood smoke. Medium-bodied, the palate delivers wonderful freshness, with very firm, very finely grained tannins and layers of vibrant black fruits, finishing on a profound minerally note. With this vintage, we can see something of a stylistic departure, offering an expression of Merlot that is bright, refreshing, elegant, and perfumed, and it is perhaps more similar to Screaming Eagle in terms of style than it has ever been. Beautiful! (LPB)
(4/2018)

Still, a young puppy with plenty of tannins that slowly evolves in an open bottle and glass. I believe this wine is now at its peak of perfection. There was a very early and slight browning of the edge in color. The bouquet was initially fairly simple and not pronounced but over the course of an hour, it opened up with a complex taste which included for me a subtle licorice, blackberry, and cedar. It had a wonderful velvet mouth feel and a fairly long finish. It was also well balanced with nothing out of place. Interestingly it was served with a Carpaccio of tuna served with foie gras on brioche as well as lobster bisque. I had some left so I tried it with the Dover Sole whose sauce was somewhat sour and the wine to my surprise paired well with that sour taste. Out of 20 points, I scored it 14 but again do not let that throw you as it is a very good exceptional wine and it does take a little time to evolve in the glass.
2016 Screaming Eagle Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
100 JS 100 WA 100 V 98 D 98 JD
100 points Wine Advocate
The 2016 Screaming Eagle is, as usual, mainly Cabernet Sauvignon with a little Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet-purple colored, it leaps from the glass with bright, exuberant blackberries, kirsch, and warm blackcurrants scents plus touches of lavender, roses, tilled black loam, wild sage, and dark chocolate with wafts of yeast extract, underbrush, and crushed rocks. Medium to full-bodied, firm, and fine-grained, with amazing freshness, it is layered with crunchy black and red fruits, sparked by floral and mineral notions and finishing with epic length and depth. (LPB)
(5/2019)

With multiple 100-point scores, it has to be a great wine and of course it is. It is also still very young with a heavy young and tannic backbone that puckers you up. My first impression of smell and taste was a panoply of flavors. So many complex tastes. For me, I tasted blackberry, raspberry, strawberry, and black currants. There was clearly eucalyptus. I even tasted butter, but maybe that is because I had earlier eaten a roll. There was vanilla as well as fig as well as cigar. I promise I did not preconceive this as I wrote down my 20-point scale numbers and did not add it up until now but I scored it 20 out of 20 so I have to say I can confirm the 100-point numbers.
2015 Screaming Eagle Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
100 JD 100 JS 100 WA
100 points Wine Advocate
Composed of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc, the very deep purple-black colored 2015 Screaming Eagle leaps from the glass with notes of freshly crushed black currants, black cherries, and blackberries with suggestions of cigar box, black raspberries, red currants, chocolates, pencil lead and cast-iron pan plus a touch of potpourri. Medium to full-bodied with a rock-solid backbone of ripe, grainy tannins and oodles of freshness, it features the most incredible black and red fruit layers and finishes with incredible vibrancy and depth. (LPB)
(4/2018)

Another 100 Point stunner. My very first comment when smelling the wine was the aroma and bouquet jumped out of the glass. I could smell it 3 feet away. There was a heavily smoky aroma and flavor followed by a complex mixture of berries including blackberry, strawberry, raspberry, and currants. For reasons unknown to me I only gave it 13 out of 20 points despite my own what most would consider 100-point comments, and I preferred it to the 2016 proving once again when you are as little biased as you can be you can surprise yourself when tasting. I tasted the 2015 and 2016 side by side so no telling how the 2016 may have influenced me. I should also mention that for the 2015 I described the tannins as “sweet” tannins and I think that may be why I preferred it over the 2016.
2019 Screaming Eagle Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
100 V 98 JD
100 points Decanter
Power and intensity balanced by so much freshness, tension, and energy – quite remarkable. Aromas lead with beautifully delineated black and blue fruits, and pops of red berries, coupled with fresh violets and rose petals, black licorice, and sagebrush. Broad and mouth-filling with a lovely mid-palate density and ultra-fine-grained tannins that are rounded, long, and focused. Perfectly complete with a long finish punctuated by chaparral, dried herbs, and spearmint. Shows the trademark freshness and depth that Screaming Eagle wines offer year after year. (JC)
(6/2022)

This 100-point analogy is getting old by now. Another berry-forward wine, in fact, I just came up with a play on words to overall describe Screaming Eagle, “berry well-balanced wine”. The aroma and bouquet were to me very subtle. You could tell there was complexity there, just not overstated. Lots of berry flavors but no smoke that I could detect. It had a bit more acid than the others which will help with food. I noted very good balance and scored it 15 out of 20 but it really is I am sure 100 points to the experts.
2020 Screaming Eagle Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon
99 JS
Fabulous aromas of cabernet sauvignon with blackcurrants, blueberries, bark, fresh mushrooms, and violets, follow through to a full body with an elegance that builds at the finish, leaving you with a freshness and minerality that goes on for minutes. Unique wine in so many ways. A blend of 76% cabernet sauvignon, 18% merlot and 6% cabernet franc.
(3/2023)

96 points Vinous
The 2020 Screaming Eagle is one of the great surprises of the year. Energetic and vibrant in the glass, the 2020 offers a bit more energy than most readers are likely used to. All the elements are so well balanced. Dark blue/purplish fruit, lavender, menthol, spice, leather, and a soft touch of all fill out the layers effortlessly. (AG)
(2/2023)

I left the two professional ratings here for the 2020 because they both described my overall assessment of the 2020. Of all the Screaming Eagles of the evening, this was the one for me and I scored it 20 out of 20. For one thing, it was a very smooth velvet wine more so than the others and better balanced with the tannins than the 2016. It had an extraordinary aroma, bouquet, and taste with complex berry flavors and eucalyptus and figs. It also had the smoky flavor that many have. So with 2020, you got it all, smoke, berry, and vegetative flavors all wrapped up and I repeat from Vinous “All the elements are so well balanced.”
2019 Neiman “Las Posads” Cabernet Sauvignon
This 33-acre site on Howell Mountain has 15 acres planted by David Abreu and his team and rests at 2000 feet elevation. Tucked into the forest, this estate vineyard brings incredible black fruit and a depth of secondary notes to the bottle. There are no professional reviews of this wine yet but I have included the description of the 2016 by Antonio Galloni as a guide. The 2016 was not made by Drew Neiman but lets you know where and the quality of the grapes.
“The 2016 Las Posadas is a stunning Howell Mountain wine. Inky, rich, and hedonistically beautiful, the 2016 is simply magnificent. Crème de cassis, chocolate, menthol, licorice, lavender, cloves, mint, graphite, and crushed rocks are all amped up in the glass. Unctuous, creamy, and super-expressive, the Posadas captures the opulence of Howell Mountain. It is simply magnificent in every way." Abreu Vineyards is by far one of the best producers coming out of California today. Coming from the viticulture side, David Abreu farms his vineyards meticulously and their wines show it. 100 Points, Antonio Galloni.
As mentioned in my most recent blog Drew is now buying these grapes from David Abreu to make his own “Drew Screaming Eagle” and a certain unnamed celebrity swears Drew’s is as good as Screaming Eagle. So I threw this and his Cab/Franc blend into the mix tonight for comparison. On the initial smell and taste you can say “fruity”. But here I tasted dark chocolate, licorice, and some slightly bitter tannins. The wine was well-balanced and integrated and had plenty of acids that you did not notice. I gave it 17 out of 20 and when discussing with the others at the dinner there was a 100% consensus they all liked the Cab/Franc blend described next. But one needs to remember the group I was with loved Cab Franc.
2019 Neiman Red Wine Blend 70% Las Posadas Cabernet 30% Cab Franc
I have to admit after tasting this wine now twice against the 100 % Cab as well as 4 vintages tonight of Screaming Eagle I liked this one right up there as one of the best. Despite for years of not being totally enamored with Cab Franc I clearly experienced tonight how that grape when blended well can elevate the wine to new heights. The opening aroma and bouquet act was a strong fruit smell that filled the room. Smell and taste were complex with cedar, licorice, dark chocolate, all the berries, prunes, and for the first time tonight hay and barnyard smells and tastes. An earthy hedonistic mixture to savor. I am sure I am as biased as most and I do try not to be but I am human. But with this wine, my bias would be that I did not like it, go figure I left feeling it was either close to or the best of the evening. Congratulations to Drew for an example of perfect blending.
1989 d'Yquem, Sauternes
98 points Vinous

There was no surprise here. I gave the wine 20 out of 20 points. The opening aroma and bouquet was a complex smoky flavor followed by a floral and sweet taste and smell with bushels of pear, apple, honey, and honeysuckle flavors. The finish continues to linger on. I agree with Vinous in that I still feel the 1990 is the greatest and most spiritual D'Yquem ever made but of course, I am biased there. But no question the 1989 is running a close second and was a hedonistic end to an amazing evening.
The Wine Soapbox
This now is my second multiple vintage tasting of Screaming Eagle and I consider myself extremely fortunate to participate in these tastings fully understanding that I am experiencing something almost no one in the wine world will ever experience. I hope to describe it to all so that you can judge for yourself how you might feel about and evaluate these wines. On Feb 25, 2021, I participated in my first Screaming Eagle tasting which I encourage you to read in my blog(WFTwithRoss.Blogspot.com) and it sure seems longer than that. To date, I have now tasted 2005, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014(both first and second), 2015, 2016, 2019, and 2020. Based on this embarrassment of riches I have formed an overall opinion of Screaming Eagle which I described earlier as a “berry well-balanced wine”. Let me explain. Every vintage I tasted was a berry(fruit) bomb. Immediately you smell a complex mixture of Blackberry, blueberry, raspberry, etc. The few Master Sommeliers I have known have told me that in its essence wine is grape or fruit juice and if you cannot taste the fruit juice something is wrong with the wine. There is no danger of missing berry juice in Screaming Eagle. The other thing that stands out year to year is the balance all of these wines have. I have never tasted one that was not well balanced and this speaks to the blending magic at the vineyard. My winemaker friend Drew Neiman always reminds me that as long as a wine is well made and well balanced even if a particular aspect of the wine like acid, tannin, or even oak is over done you will not notice it as in the blending process the winemaker who knows what he or she is doing blends the disparate components of the wine to come out the other side as a seamless well balanced pleasant drinking experience and you won’t be overwhelmed by the excessive oak or acid or tannin. Some, but not all, of Screaming Eagle vintages, also have a certain layer of complexity to them, but in many of the vintages, the berry flavors are predominant sometimes hiding other wonderful flavors. Now onto the elephant in the room the price-value ratio. These wines are one of the most expensive wines on the planet and you have to ask yourself if the difference in style and taste and quality is worth the price differential over an equally compelling California Cabernet. That is a question you have to answer yourself. I think it says a lot that a significant number of these bottles end up at auction in the after-market having never been drunk by the original owner. Last week at dinner a friend gave me a great line that says “Wine is made to be enjoyed not exploited”. Wine is made to be drunk, period. If all you are doing is buying and selling something over and over again to squeeze every ounce of profit out of it then please go buy NFTs. At least that is more honest. I have confirmed that for many of my friends who have the palate Screaming Eagle offers a subtle hedonistic taste difference that only they can appreciate and they have the funds to indulge this vice. So I say go ahead with my blessing and joy that you are in fact enjoying these wines. But please eventually drink them. Some things are more important than money. For the rest of us, there are hundreds of similar quality and tasty wines at a much lower price point. Please see my blog on California Cabernets from October 22, 2021. In the first Screaming Eagle tasting a 2015 Hall Jacks Masterpiece was included and I wrote then and confirm now it is as close to Screaming Eagle as you can get and is 5% of the cost of Screaming Eagle. At this evening's tasting, I felt the Neiman 70% Cab/30% Cab Franc was a good enough close second to substitute for Screaming Eagle but again until you do it yourself you may or may not agree. I also at this point would like to thank sincerely Chef Okan Kizilbayir, Executive Chef of the Ritz Carlton Amelia Island, and his staff for donating their time and effort to this dinner to support the Homeless Coalition of Nassau County. Chef Okan’s dinner tonight was exquisite and highly exemplary of his unique skill set in the culinary world. For those who don’t know him, he came here from La Bernadine and Blue working alongside Eric Riepert. Our dinner this evening started with caviar canapes on ripple potato chips followed by an appetizer tuna carpaccio very similar to the one offered at La Bernadine.
Next was a Lobster Bisque with a ravioli of stuffed, and I mean stuffed lobster perfectly prepared.
The first-course fish dish was Dover Sole with mushrooms and Champagne Emulsion.
The first meat entree course was a lamp chop to die for. One of the most tender lamb I have ever had. It was served with Babaganush or eggplant hummus. The main entree was Australian Wagyu with charred scallions in a red wine bone marrow bordelaise sauce made over 2 days that was some of the best sauces ever.
The Feast resistance was Grand Marnier souffle with Cream Anglaise and a small side of rich chocolate ice cream served with 1989 Chateau d’Yquem.
Total decadence. I salute Chef Okan for his efforts as he obviously pulled out all the stops for a memorable evening.
Next was a Lobster Bisque with a ravioli of stuffed, and I mean stuffed lobster perfectly prepared.
The first-course fish dish was Dover Sole with mushrooms and Champagne Emulsion.
The first meat entree course was a lamp chop to die for. One of the most tender lamb I have ever had. It was served with Babaganush or eggplant hummus. The main entree was Australian Wagyu with charred scallions in a red wine bone marrow bordelaise sauce made over 2 days that was some of the best sauces ever.
The Feast resistance was Grand Marnier souffle with Cream Anglaise and a small side of rich chocolate ice cream served with 1989 Chateau d’Yquem.
Total decadence. I salute Chef Okan for his efforts as he obviously pulled out all the stops for a memorable evening.
No comments:
Post a Comment