NYC "The Big Apple" Wines and Dining 2024

Recommended Restaurants

Sea Fire Grill Midtown

Upon the recommendation of the hotel concierge, we enjoyed an exquisite dinner at Sea Fire Grill in New York City. This establishment is affiliated with the Benjamin Steakhouse franchise, and both the cuisine and service were exemplary. It is undoubtedly a five-star venue, accompanied by five-star pricing. As is common with many restaurants in New York City, the markup on wine from retail prices is 300%, which I believe is excessively high. However, they did offer one of the finest wine selections I have encountered in some time. I opted for a flawlessly prepared swordfish, while my wife savored the remarkable seared scallops. Despite the elevated wine prices, we found the restaurant to be outstanding in terms of both service and the quality and variety of the food. In hindsight, we should have chosen wine by the glass, but I could not resist the allure of their favored Aubert Powder House Sonoma Chardonnay on the list.

STK Steakhouse Midtown

Having visited New York City for several decades, we have established a preferred selection of businesses, particularly in the realm of steakhouses, where we have consistently favored the Benjamin franchise. However, seeking a change for this trip, we decided to try STK Steakhouse in Midtown, and it proved to be an excellent choice. The menu is impressive, featuring many classic options. Notably, they offer a fine selection of A5 Japanese Kobe beef, including an intriguing A5 French Dip, which I had not encountered before. Additionally, they provide A5 strip and filet steaks, with the filet being our preferred cut. I opted for a Delmonico steak, dry-aged and accompanied by Bearnaise sauce, which was superbly prepared. For my starter, I enjoyed a delightful Tuna Tartare that reminded me of a similar dish I had at PLAE restaurant on Amelia Island years ago. Overall, we had a pleasant dining experience, and the pricing was among the more reasonable options in New York. It is worth noting that the cost was lower because we chose to share a single entrée and ordered wine by the glass, which significantly impacted the total. As we dined, it was evident that this establishment did not embody the traditional dark, heavily oaked ambiance typical of many NYC steakhouses. Instead, the interior was modern and sleek, accompanied by hip hop techno Buddha bar music, and we were the only patrons over the age of 40. Our experience at STK reinforced my previous observations made in Paris last summer, indicating that the dining scene in major cities has shifted towards a younger, more vibrant, and expedited format. I should mention that from the moment we were seated until our departure, we spent just one hour there, and we did not feel rushed at all. The era of lengthy, elegant Continental dinners seems to have waned, with younger diners now favoring a more casual and swift dining experience. I like to call it Quick and Hip Dining. For us, as long as the food remains exceptional, we will be content, while still seeking out those cherished traditional dining experiences.

Milos Estiatorio Hudson Yards

This marked our second visit to Milos, with this occasion being our inaugural dinner experience there. The establishment is renowned for its wide array of seafood, all expertly prepared. This visit was no exception. My wife opted for the shrimp, which were cooked to perfection. I had intended to order fish, specifically my favorite, pompano; however, it was unfortunately out of season and unavailable. Consequently, I chose the rack of lamb, which was also prepared flawlessly and exceptionally flavorful. We began our meal with a platter featuring a variety of hummus, which was incredibly delicious and among the finest I have encountered, prompting our visit primarily for that dish. The view and service are unparalleled, and securing a reservation is essential, as the restaurant was bustling with local patrons. I wholeheartedly continue to recommend Milos.

Osteria DelBianco Midtown NYC

Our decision to dine at this establishment stemmed from our research into restaurants in New York City. During this process, I observed that this restaurant had received only one low one-star review, while the majority of reviews were rated four or five stars. It is uncommon to encounter such a disparity in ratings, as there are typically more low scores. I am pleased to confirm that the presence of only one one-star review is indicative of their quality. We enjoyed an excellent dinner, with all dishes freshly prepared and enhanced by a delightful blend of herbs and spices that contributed to a rich flavor profile. I ordered my usual dish, Veal Scaloppini, which featured the thinnest slices of meat I have encountered in years, and it was delicious. The drinks were satisfactory, and although the wine list was somewhat limited, we managed to find a pleasant wine to accompany our meal. The pricing was reasonable. The restaurant was bustling with locals, creating a vibrant and somewhat noisy atmosphere, which we found enjoyable due to the evident happiness of the patrons. My wife chose the pasta Bolognese and thoroughly enjoyed it, even taking some home for lunch the following day. I can wholeheartedly recommend Osteria DelBianco Midtown in New York City.

Wine Spectator NY Wine Experience 2024

It has been six years since my last attendance at the Wine Spectator New York Wine Experience, primarily due to cancellations caused by the Covid pandemic. After four years, it felt as though the same selections were being showcased annually. However, this year brought a refreshing change, featuring a vertical tasting of Léoville Las Cases, one of my preferred Bordeaux wines, prompting my return to New York City. As is customary, the weekend was filled with intense tastings and lectures from early morning until late evening. By my estimation, over 300 wines were presented, and at my current age, it is simply unfeasible to sample them all—perhaps a younger individual might manage to do so more efficiently. Over the course of three days I tasted and enjoyed 96 wines, with a cumulative value of approximately $21,000, which was all I could manage. The opportunity to sample and enjoy wines of such caliber and expense, representing a global selection, is unparalleled. The Wine Spectator New York Wine Experience remains the premier venue for enhancing one’s palate and wine knowledge at a reasonable cost, effectively allowing one to travel the world through wine. I still regard it as an excellent value, despite having only sampled about a third of the wines available. On average, the retail price of the wines was around $240 per bottle. One notable observation I made is that the Master Sommelier curriculum may require reevaluation. Having attended several classes, I have consistently encountered the initial lesson emphasizing that the first assessment of a wine should focus on whether it exhibits predominantly earthy or fruity characteristics. Traditionally, "earthy" has been associated with Old World wines, particularly from Europe, while "fruity" has been linked to New World wines, such as those from the USA, South Africa, and South America. However, I have noticed a shift, as some Old World producers are now crafting fruit-forward wines, while certain New World vintners, especially in California, are producing earth-forward wines, indicating a clear evolution in winemaking practices. This change is partly attributed to California vintners increasingly focusing on terroir-driven, single-vineyard wines, aligning with traditional French principles.

My primary objective in writing about wine is to recommend high-quality options to friends that are reasonably priced and accessible for purchase. To facilitate this, I have categorized my recommended wines into three groups: those priced under $100, those over $100, and a singular exceptional wine that merits the investment of purchasing a bottle at least once in a lifetime. Given that the average price of wine today hovers around $240, it is impractical for most individuals, including myself, to indulge in a bottle at that price on a daily basis while maintaining financial stability. I often question whether wines at such elevated prices truly justify their costs, which continue to rise. Therefore, I have established $100 as a significant threshold, as it appears to be a price point of relevance for many consumers. While numerous wines are offered in the range of $500 to $1200 per bottle, I can confidently assert that, in my view, most do not warrant their price tags, and in some instances, are not worth any price at all; thus, it is unwise to devote time, effort, and resources to them.

Recommended Value Wines Less than $100

15 to consider as strong buys

Diatom Chardonnay Santa Barbara County 2023 WS93 $25. Although I typically do not gravitate towards Chardonnays or wines from Santa Barbara, this particular offering has changed my perspective. For its price point, it stands out as an exceptional wine. The complex floral notes of white peach, pineapple, orange blossoms, and lemon curd are prominent on both the nose and palate, harmoniously balanced with a moderate acidity that pairs well with food. It serves as an excellent everyday wine, showcasing craftsmanship and technical superiority that rivals more expensive options. I will certainly consider purchasing this wine again in the future.

Kendall Jackson Chardonnay Petaluma Gap Jackson Estate Cloud Landing WS91 $55. I have long held a fondness for Kendall Jackson wines, having enjoyed hundreds of their bottles. This particular Chardonnay ranks among the finest I have ever tasted, deserving of an even higher rating. It presents a complex profile, characterized by good acidity and minimal oak influence, resulting in a well-balanced experience. Other reviewers have noted flavors of lush clove and nutmeg, alongside toasted brioche, salted butter, lemon, and peach. This wine exemplifies the exceptional quality that this winery consistently delivers.

Chateau Suduiraut Sauternes 2013 WS94 $77I was able to taste this wine alongside Chateau d’Yquem Sauternes 2016, which was conveniently positioned next to it, the superiority of Suduiraut was evident. The predominant flavor of smooth, velvety honey enveloped the palate, delivering an enduring pleasure. Although the d’Yquem also received a rating of 94 points, it exhibited some bitterness and lacked the same level of smoothness. My previous experiences with d’Yquem have not always been exceptional, and a common remark is, “Yes, it may not be perfect, but it is a d’Yquem,” highlighting the influence of bias in our evaluations. Over the years, I have come to prefer Chateau Suduiraut, as it consistently matches or surpasses d’Yquem in my estimation, all while being significantly more affordable (the 2016 d’Yquem is priced at $380).

Domaine Carneros by Taittinger Brut Caneros California Sparkling Wine WS93 $39. For many years, this Champagne/Sparkling wine has consistently emerged as the most remarkable value at this event. Each year, I find myself astonished by the exceptional quality, complexity, and technical prowess that surpasses even the finest offerings from France. I can enjoy and serve this wine throughout the day and night with great pride, as it truly is that impressive. Its intricate flavors and perfect acidity create a harmonious balance, making it difficult to distinguish from renowned brands such as Louis Roederer. It is essential for all of us, myself included, to set aside any preconceived notions and consider this wine for our New Year's celebrations. The Rosé variant is equally exceptional.

Roederer Estate Brut Anderson Valley L'Ermitage WS 94 $68

This California Sparkler has consistently stood out as an exceptional choice, often rivaling premium French Champagnes while offering significant cost savings. Fortunately, its quality remains unchanged, continuing to impress. The aroma is rich with fruit notes and exhibits complexity, featuring hints of apple, hazelnut, clove, and nutmeg. The finish is notably long and quite enjoyable. The only other California Sparkler that may offer comparable value is the straightforward Roederer Estate Brut from Anderson Valley, priced at approximately $30 per bottle, which we have also appreciated for many years. I wholeheartedly recommend either option.

Champagne Louis Roederer Collection 244 NV WS $93

This wine is surprisingly accessible, even in Florida, where I discovered it priced at $50 per bottle. It is an exceptional Champagne that undoubtedly stands among the finest in the region. This offers the opportunity to enjoy authentic French sparkling wine at an excellent value, and it truly is a remarkable selection. Personally, I would find it challenging to choose between this and the California Roederer L’Ermitage. It is undoubtedly a refined Champagne, characterized by good acidity and a complex flavor profile that includes notes of pear, cherry, and apple, complemented by a subtle hint of almonds. The finish is impressive, and there is ample supply, with over 21,000 cases imported to the United States. This is certainly a wine to consider stocking up on for the holiday season

La Crema Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Tidal Break Vineyard WS90 $55

This wine is exclusively accessible via their wine club and is not sold in retail outlets. It is unfortunate, as it is an exceptional wine that, in my view, deserves a rating higher than 90. I earnestly requested the winemaker, Craig McAllister, to include me on the club list to obtain this wine. We shall see what transpires. It is a remarkable Chardonnay featuring a complex flavor profile that introduces new notes of ginger, lemon, pineapple, and peach, complemented by refreshing acidity and subtle spice undertones. I found it to be highly enjoyable and hope to have the opportunity to purchase some in the future.

Dutton-Goldfield Pinot Noir Green Valley of Russian River Valley Dutton Ranch Emerald Ridge Vineyard 2021 92WS $75

The Dutton-Goldfield vineyards are renowned globally for producing exceptional Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes, which are sought after by numerous winemakers. This particular wine originates from the family that owns a portion or the entirety of these vineyards. I had the pleasure of tasting it during a luncheon dedicated to Sonoma County wines. It exhibited a delightful bouquet of robust dark cherries and showcased a deep, concentrated black cherry hue. The flavor profile was rich and well-balanced. I did notice a slight bitterness at the back of the palate, which dissipated when paired with food. Overall, I found it to be an outstanding Pinot Noir that pairs wonderfully with various dishes.

Pedroncelli Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Mother Clone 2021 $15This wine offers exceptional value at an astonishingly low price, presenting a unique experience. It begins with an enticing smoky cherry aroma, showcasing flavors of both black cherry and blackberry. The palate reveals a complexity that surpasses expectations for its price point. The wine is rich in tannins and features the peppery notes typically associated with Zinfandel. Its deep color is noteworthy, and one might easily mistake it for a Pinot Noir, despite it being a red Zinfandel. At a retail price of $15 per bottle, it stands out as the finest Red Zinfandel I have encountered in years.

Rodney Strong Cabernet Sauvignon Alexander Valley Brother Single Vineyard 2018 WS 90 $40. This serves as an exemplary illustration of how longstanding biases and prejudices can be swiftly dispelled. I had never found Rodney Strong wines to be particularly impressive, nor had I ever made a purchase. However, this particular wine has changed my perspective. Priced at $40 per bottle, it offers remarkable value. It presents a deep, concentrated black hue, accompanied by an indulgent smoky cedar aroma. The palate reveals a luxuriously smooth texture, enriched with an abundance of fruit and berry flavors, all harmoniously balanced. A subtle hint of oak emerges as a delicate vanilla note, culminating in a prolonged and pleasing finish. This Cabernet stands out as exceptional, exhibiting a more refined style while maintaining a bold and full-bodied character. My primary concern lies in its limited availability, as it is a single vineyard wine with low production.

Marques de Murrieta White Rioja Capellania 2019 WA 96 WS 93(2015) $78

This vineyard has a notable history that dates back to 1986. In that year, they began aging a white wine in oak barrels for 22 years, followed by an additional six years in stainless steel before its release. Remarkably, the wine was never subjected to excessive oak influence. Currently, it commands a price exceeding $500 per bottle on the open market, with limited availability. I had the privilege of tasting it at a previous Wine Spectator Wine Experience and have enjoyed two or three bottles during meals, with one remaining in my cellar. It is evident that describing this vineyard as merely significant would be an understatement. The 2019 vintage was showcased at the Chef’s Challenge, where it was selected by Bruce Sanderson of Wine Spectator to pair with Ensaladilla Rusa featuring Langosta and Trout Roe, prepared by Chef Jose Andres. In my opinion, it was a perfect pairing. The wine presented a delicate smoky aroma, leading to a palate rich in exquisite fruit, highlighted by vibrant pear notes and a lingering finish. It complemented the dish beautifully, and I found Chef Jose's entrée to be the standout of the day.

Tolaini Chianti Classico Vallenuova 2022 WS 93 $25

During the Chefs Challenge, Bruce Sanderson selected a pairing for Ervilhas com Chourico: a Tatlet featuring Portuguese Chorizo Mousse accompanied by a Green Pea Salad prepared by Emeril Lagasse. This combination proved to be an exceptional match of wine and cuisine, offering great value. I have a particular fondness for Chiantis, especially the Classico and Reserva varieties. The wine exhibited a pleasant fruit balance with moderate acidity, enhancing its compatibility with food. Priced at $25 per bottle, this Chianti represents an excellent value, and I wholeheartedly recommend it.

La Crema Pinot Noir Sonoma Coast 2021 WS91 $22

This wine was recognized as Wine Spectator's Wine of the Year for 2024, and I concur that it represents an exceptional value for its price, particularly for enthusiasts of Pinot. The color appeared somewhat light; however, upon tasting, it revealed a pleasantly moderate body. The aroma and flavor were dominated by rich dark cherry notes. The finish was commendable, and I observed that it was a well-crafted wine. For Pinot aficionados, this is an excellent choice to enjoy regularly with dinner without straining one's finances. I found Wine Spectator's rating of 91 to be accurate; while it may not be as striking as some others, it is certainly a wine that can be appreciated by many

The Calling Chardonnay Russian River Valley Dutton Ranch 2022 WS93 $20

An exceptional Chardonnay priced at only $20 per bottle represents an incredible value. The initial aroma presents notes of vanilla, complemented by hints of honeysuckle and pear, which seamlessly transition into the palate. Although the wine was initially served at a lower temperature, it gradually warmed in the glass, revealing a captivating cedar plank aroma and flavor that highlights the oak, which is subtly integrated and enhances the overall profile of the wine. The mouthfeel is velvety, a quality I particularly appreciate, and the finish is quite pleasing. I noted that the fruit is well-balanced and exhibits a delightful sweetness. This further reinforces the notion that a wine must taste like grape juice to be considered authentic. It is rare to find a California Chardonnay that is not excessively oaked, yet this wine offers a remarkable complexity of flavors at such an affordable price. It appears to be widely available, and interestingly, I found it listed on Amazon for $27 per bottle.

Aubert Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Powder House 2021 WS95 $110

Mark Aubert has been crafting California Chardonnay for many years, and his expertise is evident. Before establishing his own vineyard, he served as the lead winemaker for Peter Michael, where he played a significant role in creating many of the winery's exceptional wines. In my view, Mark epitomizes California's "Burgundy wine producers in the Burgundy style." Recently, I had the pleasure of enjoying this beautifully crafted wine during dinner over the weekend. The aroma and flavor profile are intricate yet harmoniously balanced, featuring a rich array of fruit notes, including peach and apple. The acidity is moderate, complemented by a subtle hint of oak, which is not overpowering. I paired it with a buttery swordfish, and the combination resulted in a truly indulgent dining experience. Priced just above $100, I included it in my collection of wines under $100, close enough for me, as it offers remarkable value compared to a French Chardonnay of similar quality and style.

Recommended Outstanding Wines Over $100

Champagne Pol Rodger Cuvee Sir Winston Churchill 2015 WS 95 $500

It is now the moment to ascend into the Stratosphere and explore wines whose prices border on the absurd, or those that compel you to reevaluate your romantic relationship, prompting you to enhance it in order to justify purchasing a bottle or two rather than confronting potential alimony expenses. Sir Winston Churchill Pol Roger has long been regarded as one of the premier marquee Champagnes globally, accompanied by a price that reflects its esteemed status. Undoubtedly, it is an exceptional Champagne. It begins with a creamy texture and fine mousse, presenting a complex array of flavors including lemon and almonds, culminating in a prolonged and delightful finish that gives you pause to consider how you will manage the expense. I acknowledge my bias regarding the price. Nevertheless, it is indeed a remarkable Champagne, and having enjoyed it previously, I would certainly purchase it if it were to be offered at a discount on WTSO.com.

Maison Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot 2021 WS 92 $255

This price for a Clos Vougeot Grand Cru is truly exceptional, and the quality of the wine is remarkable. I must admit, I was taken aback. Louis Jadot produces a wide range of Burgundies, which often leads me to question the overall quality, as he does not seem to focus on a specific region or set of vineyards to create higher-end wines. I have visited his residence in Beaune and explored one of his cellars, where I found that he offers good wines at reasonable prices. In my opinion, this particular wine stands out, achieving a level of excellence that is not typically associated with this producer. I believe the Wine Spectator rating of 92 is understated; I would rate it higher. It embodies the classic characteristics of Clos Vougeot, featuring a complex aroma and flavor profile with multiple fruit notes, harmoniously balanced with a terroir-driven earthiness that is quite enjoyable. The wine possesses ample body and intensity, culminating in a long finish. With only 195 cases imported, availability is limited, but it is certainly worth seeking out at this price point. Most Clos Vougeot wines I encounter today often exceed $500, making this an exceptional deal.

Peter Michael The Poppies Knights Valley WS 92 $230

This wine is undoubtedly Sir Peter’s most renowned creation, and justifiably so. I remained on his mailing list for several years, only opting out to explore more white wines, as my wife and family typically do not consume reds. To me, this wine was nothing short of spectacular, deserving of a rating exceeding 92. It presents a bold and dark profile with a berry aroma, followed by intricate flavors of mocha, cocoa, anise, and various blackberry notes, all in perfect harmony and balance, culminating in a lingering finish. Notably, Sir Peter engaged in conversation with me three times over the weekend, each time recognizing me from previous encounters, and he is always a delightful individual to converse with. What truly astonished me, and was a significant honor, was his remark that he had always believed I was a wine writer for Wine Spectator. While that is not the case, it was indeed a flattering compliment. Perhaps he has come across my blog? I have extended offers to assist him, as a physician, with his charity focused on prostate cancer, and he mentioned he would reach out. Only time will reveal the outcome.

Domaine Faiveley Batard-Montrachet WS 95 2008 $372

I would like to inform you that my remarks regarding this wine represent the final commentary I will be making for this blog this year and I waited until the end to write regarding this wine. Additionally, it was the inaugural wine served on Saturday morning during the Wine Experience. Notably, Montrachet, Batard Montrachet, and Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru are the most coveted White Burgundy Chardonnays for both Clark and myself. Were we to possess the financial means of Elon Musk, these would likely be the only wines we would consume regularly, regardless of their cost, as they hold a near-spiritual significance for us. While I have not been particularly fond of Domaine Faiveley, it remains a favorite among many in France, especially in restaurants. It appears that during our dinners in Beaune, France, nearly all patrons opt for his wines. Undoubtedly, it is a remarkable wine. A notable insight I gained from Robert Parker years ago is that it exhibits a subtle hint of green color, along with an almost imperceptible lime flavor, which Parker suggests indicates a wine of exceptional quality. This characteristic of Montrachet wines is complemented by aromas and flavors of apple, honeysuckle, and vanilla, all harmoniously balanced with a moderate acidity that pairs well with food. The fresh lemon/lime note contributes to a mouthwatering tartness and brightness, further suggesting sufficient acidity for culinary pairings. The wine concludes with a long, delightful finish, and the more prolonged the finish, the greater my desire to acquire a case. In comparison to the current price of standard Montrachet, which exceeds $1,000 per bottle, Batard Montrachet serves as an excellent alternative for those mindful of their budget.

Lokoya Mount Veeder Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 $500

This wine experience undoubtedly deserves a five-star rating. Among the selections from Lokoya, it stood out as the finest. The wine presented a deep black hue with a pronounced dark edge, indicating its youthfulness. Its aroma was intricate, with noticeable notes of eucalyptus. Additionally, cherry flavors emerged, which is atypical for a Cabernet. The body was robust and assertive, showcasing a fruit-forward profile that was well-balanced. I detected a subtle hint of concord grape, which I interpret as a sign of complexity, affirming its identity as grape juice. During a previous Master Sommelier class, I learned that if a wine does not evoke the taste of grape juice, it cannot be classified as true wine. The tannins were evidently softening as I compared the 2019 Mount Veeder with the 2013 vintage, illustrating the exceptional aging potential of this wine. While I appreciated the 2019 vintage, I found the 2013 to be more harmonious and mature, making it more enjoyable at present. In both the 2013 and 2019 vintages, I described the alcohol sensation as "cool" rather than "hot," a characteristic I associate with mountain wines, particularly those from Mount Veeder.

Here is an eye opener! I had this wine in New Orleans this summer and already written a high review from our New Orleans trip. Here are my comments from then: "No question the darkest, blackest pitch black wine I have ever had. Highly concentrated and extracted with a balanced nose and taste. For me it had a ton of dark chocolate. Still full of fruit and to me mild acid. It will continue to age wonderfully and sent exceptionally well with our Chateaubriand. I love most Mountain vineyards in Napa."

Best Wine of Event regardless of price close to Spiritual

2000 The Haut-Brion Mission, Pessac-Léognan RP” 100 W2 95 JS $600

Wine Advocate Review Date: 08/2012

One of the wines of the vintage, the 2000 has barely budged in its evolution since it was bottled and released in 2002. After ten years in bottle, it still reveals a dense opaque purple color along with a potentially sensational bouquet of blueberries, black currants, graphite, asphalt and background oak. Extremely powerful, full-bodied and superbly concentrated with good acidity and high but round tannins, this massive La Mission-Haut-Brion should take its place among this estate’s most hallowed vintages when it hits full maturity in another one to two decades. I was surprised by just how youthful this wine tasted at age 12. If tasted blind, I would have guessed it to be around 4 to 5 years old. (RP)

I have included Robert Parker's 100-point review of this particular wine to substantiate my belief that it was the highlight of the event. It was nearly a transcendent experience. My observations indicate that the wine exhibits some age, evidenced by a slight browning at the edges of its dark hue. The aroma evoked memories of roses flourishing in a grove of smoky cedar trees. The palate was remarkably intricate, featuring notes of roses, cedar, anise, and blackberries, along with a multitude of other flavors. Envision yourself in a landscape filled with roses and fruits, enveloped by cedar trees; this wine transports you there. Despite its complexity, it maintained a commendable balance. The finish was prolonged and gratifying, contributing to an overall sense of tranquility. Is such an experience worth $600? That is a decision only you can make. For me, it would be a worthwhile investment for a once-in-a-lifetime encounter. Few wines have ever taken me to a realm of such splendor, but this one certainly did.

French Chateau's and Wine Vineyards

I have a good friend who is soon traveling to France to visit wine country and asked me for some information. I got a little over excited and ended up writing a small treatise so figured I should share it with all of my Blog readers as it has a lot of good recommendations.

Chateau Recommendations.

The Chateau's to visit are in the Loire Valley which is about a 1 to 2 hours train or car ride from Paris. In addition if you are visiting the Chateau's you are not that far from the D-Day beaches like Omaha Beach and you can visit those and a Chateau or two in a day. It's best to get a hotel in Tours to visit the beaches and Chateau's as it puts you really close to everything there and getting around by car is a breeze and roads are well marked. Chateau St. Michel is the most famous and photographed Chateau but it is further South and may take longer to get there,. You also have to walk us down a steep road and causeway at St. Michele as you may not be able to park close to get to it but it is spectacular. There are over 200 Chateaus in the Loire but if you have seen one or two you have seen most of them with a couple of exceptions which are must see and unique Chateaus with extensive architecture and history. The ones to visit are Chateau Chambord, Château de Chenonceau: The Fairy Tale Chateau of Dreams, and Chateau d'Amboise in the town of Amboise is where Leonardo Di Vince is buried. While out visiting Chateaus a great place to have lunch is La Cave Aux Moines on the Loire River(http://cave-aux-moines.com/fr/) near Amboise.

Visiting wine areas in France. Again you must make advance reservations sometimes months in advance. If you are in the alcohol business and have relationships with distributors they can make reservations for you. Southern for example, can make these for you but you will need to rent a car and drive around yourself. Driving in wine country is easy especially with GPS like Google Maps. You can download current maps of any area in France prior to going so you don't need the internet to travel around. You do need to be on-time. If you are 5 minutes late they will not see you most of the time. Clark and I however have hired agents over there who provide us with a one stop experience. They pick us up at the hotel in the morning, drive us around all day, introduce us to everyone, act as translators if needed as some of the owners speak no English, take us to a nice place for lunch(we buy their lunch) bring us home at night and then arrange for and make sure our wine is shipped with no problems back to the US. They used to charge a group of 4 to 6 1000 Euro per day, many have now gone to a per person charge, last time it was 300 Euro per day per person. Be aware under French law the agents cannot drive any vehicle over 9 passengers including the driver so you are restricted to 4 couples doing the wine tours. In addition many winemakers prefer no more than 2 couples. You can discuss these things with the agent. You may ask why don't we just do the tours with the companies there like Viator? The reason is they are going to take you to totally unknown un classified vineyards who make jug wine and not the well known or better reputation vineyards. You will never see the inside of Lafite with them. We on the other hand have been to most of the famous ones. That is the difference

Let's start with Bordeaux

It is easy to get to Bordeaux from Paris by a very fast train. Under 3 hours. The agent you need to use there is Frederic Borliachon.(email contact@rendezvousauchateau.com, phone(+33 6 28 35 00 95). I emailed with him 2 weeks ago sending him someone new. Tell him I referred you. He knows everyone in Bordeaux and gets you into any vineyard both left and right bank. I strongly recommend Chateau Montrose, Pichon Leland, Haut Brion, Pontet Canet, D'yquem, Giraud, Cheval Blanc, Gazin, Leoville Las Case and whatever Frederic recommends or you want. He could not get me into Petrus, not sure why. Avoid Chateau Chalet. They are ripoff artists and cheat on shipping. I also recommend he take you to the lesser known areas Blaye and Bourge which are right bank vineyards across the river from the left bank who have compelling outstanding red wines at 10% the cost of the left bank wines. On the right bank ask him to take you to the Castillion vineyards, especially Chateaux Madam Pitray whose wines are imported through K&L wines of San Francisco. Most people don't know this but they have prehistoric caves art you can visit on the right bank and Frederic knows where they are. Not as big as the famous ones but good enough to see what they are like and a quick stop while out touring. Bordeaux city is great. The main square is where the Opera is directly across from the Hotel International which is great to stay at and has a wonderful Gordon Ramsey 1 star Restaurant in the hotel. Be aware Bordeaux city is 60 Kilometers from the vineyards both north and east. It takes an hour drive to get to the vineyards from your hotel. The best place to buy and ship wine from a store in Bordeaux is Vineotechnique(also have a shop in Beaune in Bourgogne) 1 block north of the Opera and Cave Ulysses is in the main square of village Margaux again far north of town. There is also a very small mom and pop place for lunch close to Cave Ulysses which is great. The owner of Cave Ulysses is Dominique and he usually gives my referrals a small discount just mentioning my name unless he has forgotten.(I receive no kickbacks). So far Dominique has had the largest selections of Bordeaux wines I have seen anywhere. As a general statement over the years on average shipped to my front door including shipping my wine prices from France are about 30% less than here or NYC. Bottom line: I am cutting out Southern.

Bourgogne

The French hate "Burgundy" and insist on Bourgogne. Clark and my hearts are in Bourgogne. If we could, we would move there. There is just so much to see and do and we have been there for months and years now almost a dozen times and we have not scratched the surface. Our best agent and Personal friend who came to Amelia 3 years and provided a tasting of Bourgogne wines both for me as well as the Ocean Club is Stevie Bobes. An American expat married to a French woman with 3 young adult children like Frederic knows everyone within a 100 mile radius. Just an amazing individual and has done more for us in the wine world than anyone. Stevie's email is stevie@wineambassadeur.com and his phone number is +33 6 48 17 46 81. He is busier than Frederic so there are rare times where we had to change our trip to meet his demanding schedule but it was always worth it. Sometimes he has a helper to fill in. Train from Paris to Beaune is 2 hours and you can also get a direct train from the airport CDG straight to Beaune as well as Dijon. If you elect to use Stevie he prefers to pick you up at the Dijon train station and take you first to lunch in Dijon with the youngest Michelin Chef in France who is spectacular after you stop and buy Dijon mustard from the original store from 1750 something. Another idea that Stevie may help with is a side trip to Lyon which is the culinary capital of the world and where Daniel Boulard came from as well as Chef Bourse. The food and wine in Lyon is second to none. If you go to Lyon, look up in the old city my friend Georges Dos Santos, owner of Antic Wine with one of the largest wine collections in the world. Last time I was there he had Peter Michael and Kistler, go figure? There are three hotels to consider in Bourgogne. #1 5 Star in Puligny Montrachet about 10 KM north of the train station in Beaune is Hotel Le Montrachet. Extreme beauty as well as price. At a minimum, have lunch there. It is across from Cave Puligny-Montrachet owned by Julien Wallerand, a good friend, whose father was the first Master of wine in the world and wrote the seminal book on the Montrachet vineyards. We have known Julian for decades and he takes great care of me and my friends. He specializes in affordable local high quality wines and our usual wine price is around $50 US from him. In addition there is a similar set up called Cave Chassange Montrachet in that village we don't know the owner as well but it is the same set up with 100's of local high quality affordable wines, both cave’s are liker coops. We usually buy a lot of wine from both of them when there. You have to have a car to get to them. The second hotel is Hotel De France directly next to the train station in Beaune. It is a 3 star Logis hotel run by a family who we know well and wonderful to work with. The owner's name is Nicholas and he has a nice wife and daughter who we have watched grow up over 2 decades. You walk out of the train station, cross the road and the hotel is right there. It is a very comfortable and frankly cheap hotel but was remodeled and updated 3 years ago and is clean, comfortable and safe. You can reserve online but for unknown reasons half the time it will say not available but if you call Nicolas directly at +33 3 80 24 10 34 he or his wife will make the reservations. One reason we could not make reservations was when he was renovating and taking vacation the Hotel was closed but because of our relationship he allowed Clark and I to stay there by ourselves and leave a check at the front desk when we left. It is a 20 minute walk anywhere in town. Directly there at the train station and Hotel Der France is ADA Beaune car rental which to us is the best place to rent a car and very convenient and you can park it at the train station at no charge. We wrecked one of their cars years ago and they could not have been nicer or easier to work with. There is another car rental, the more famous Europa car rental but they are on the other side of town on the road to the vineyards south and you have to get a taxi to get to them but they are fine also easy to use. Our last rental with them we picked up the car in Beaune and dropped it in Geneva with no hassle. Be sure and check office times for car rentals they are weird and you may end up waiting for them to open or maybe Stevie can pick it up for you and have it ready. Another option is LeClerc which to us were the cheapest and Stevie helped. We rented an van for like $15 a day but again you need a taxi/uber to get there. The third place to stay is Hotel d'Bistro which was featured in Wine Spectator 3 weeks ago and is a Grand Award winner. It is right off Park Canot in the middle of town and is 4 or 5 stars. It is small, maybe 20 rooms. You have to have dinner at the restaurant as they are famous for table carved Blue Foot Roasted Chicken. Park Canot is the main area of Beaune in a circle around a park with lots of restaurants. Highly recommended is Cave De Arches in a basement cave right off Park Canot. It is Clark's and mine favorite place to eat dinner and we have gone there now for 20 years. Have the chicken in Epoisse cheese sauce. In terms of vineyards I always start and end with Bouchard Per et Fils right down the street 2 blocks from Hotel France. At least 30% of our wine purchases come from them. Their selection is extensive and maybe they are not as famous as some others but many of their wines are highly rated. I have a case of the 2017 Chevalier Montrachet that was rated by Wine Spectator #2 white wine in the world and they sold me one of the last cases and did not raise the price after the rating. They are super people and I got to know the cellar master. In Meursault visit Thierry & Pascale Matrot, a great family we know. Years ago we met the daughter, Elsa Matrot, who at the time was 23 and had just taken over as winemaker and cellar master from her father after graduating from University of California Davis in wine production. Great people right next to the church in the village Meursault. In Puligny Montrachet I recommend visiting the Carillon brothers, Paul Pernot, and Oliver Laflavie all worth a visit. They are all great folks, have great wines and Paul I am afraid is in his 90's so most likely the son is in charge now. Paul speaks no English. Up north is where the red wines are and we recommend Domaine Rapet Pere & Fils. We met the patriarch years ago, most likely now gone, and he was a famous member of Tastevin in Bourgogne. Makes great affordable reasonable wines. Domaine Rion Armelle et Bernard makes good wine in Vosne-Romanee and uses dogs to hunt black truffles. Our current love in Vosne-Romanee is Domaine LeMarche owned by Nicole Lamarche who in a sense jointly owns the DRC grand cru vineyards. DRC and Nicole each own ½ of the Le Tache vineyard and decades ago they traded sides God only knows why? Nicole’s portion is known as Grande Rue. We have now been to her home 3 times and despite years of getting to know her like DRC it is very difficult to buy her wines though we were fortunate to find some. For lunch in Vosne-Romanee we highly recommend La Toute Petite Auberge right off the main road through Vosne-Romanee. Look quick or you will miss it. Owned by Frank Boyer who we have known for close to 20 years, last year for the very first time he recognized me as a repeat customer and gave me my first 5% discount on my purchases. I was honored but don’t expect it. He speaks no English, but for some reason me and him have always seemed to communicate and hit it off well. Does not hurt that I have always purchased thousands of dollars of wine from him. To wit, in the restaurant he has a public wine shop in the back where he sells Vosne-Romanee wines including Nicole Lemarches wine so he has been a good source for me. Turns out he is Nicole Lemarche Godfather, a story for another time. If you really hit it off he might let you visit his own private cellar under the restaurant where he let me buy a couple more LeMarche wines. When in Beaune try Epoisse Cheese especially the older ones. There is a Cheese shop in Park Canot. Also both in Beaune and 20 Km south in Chagny are open public markets on Wednesday and Saturday or Sunday, you will have to look up when, where you can buy a ton of local stuff. If you want to stay in a rented home in Beaune Steve Powell email steve@locationburgundy.com has lots of nice places 1 to 3 bedroom. On the outskirts of town there is our equivalent of Super Walmart called LeClerc. It is massive and has everything you can think of to buy including food, gourmet food, clothes, appliances but most important wine. In France wine is sold in all Supermarkets. LeClerc's is the largest. You will find "Bargains" there. We purchased Bouchard Pere & Fils Chardonnay there for $15 US a bottle and Stevie shipped it home for us. LeClerc also has a cheap and not bad Italian restaurant inside the massive store, and again outside rents cars. 3 blocks from Hotel France is a supermarket called Casino where we get snacks, water, mustard's, etc from. They have a cheap wine section just not as big. A few years back I purchased Grand Cru Eschezeau from them for under $50 a bottle. For just Chateau visits we recommend Chateau Savigny De Beaune which houses an extensive collection of airplanes in an entire large building as well as vintage motorcycles and automobiles. In St. Aubin you can visit Chateau de Rochepot which features classic Bourgogne architecture.

If you need help in Paris we use Steeve Calvo The American in Paris. Helped us a lot with hotels, restaurants, and can book trips to Champagne, Versailles, etc. Steeve phone number is +33 6 82 87 60 60 and you can Google him online.

For more information please review my other Blogs on France

We Left Our Blankets in San Francisco

We returned to San Francisco after a couple of years to babysit our grandson while the parents went to a wedding in Napa. We just visited Napa last December and will return again this coming December so did not feel the urge to visit Napa this trip and elected to stay in San Francisco and revisit our favorite spots. We knew in advance it would be cool as the coast of mid and northern California is always cool or cold in the summer due to the Pacific currents. So we packed windbreaker jackets thinking that would be enough. It was not. We were freezing to death the entire trip. At night the temp was around 50 and daytime rarely got above 60, plus there was a strong wind making the wind chill even worse. Just like my first trip there in 1979 I had to go out and purchase another long sleeve sweatshirt to increase the number of layers and have something warmer. With the windbreaker and more layers I made it through the week. Lesson learned. Always go to San Francisco with at least 2 or 3 long sleeve layers.

Fisherman's Wharf

We purposely decided to stay at the Hyatt Centric Fisherman’s Wharf as we have stayed at that property in the past and always were treated well. I can continue to recommend the Hyatt Centric. Staff was caring and focused on customer service and met most of our requests consistently. Rooms though small were comfortable and amenities were adequate. While we were there the average temp in the day was around 60 so we did not use the pool scape much due to it being cold. It is well located to explore the entire Fisherman’s Wharf area on foot and despite me with neuropathy I was able to walk around OK, just slower. There are plenty of cafe’s in the area to get breakfast at a fairly reasonable price considering where you are. Pier 39 is only 3 or 4 blocks away, and you have plenty of waterfront views and don’t forget the sea lions. While we were there the newspaper had an article on the sea lions and stated the week we were there they counted over 1000 on the docks. There is a Maritime museum and the Hyde Street Pier has a National Park with lots of old sailing ships to visit and there is a fully restored operational WWII submarine to visit so plenty to do in a couple of days. We were baby sitting our 7 year old grandson and he was well entertained.

American Baseball

Wheel of Fortune may say at the beginning of each show “Welcome to America’s Game Wheel of Fortune” but they are sadly mistaken. Trust me Major League Baseball is still as American as it gets. When I was around 6 years old I remember my father taking me to a baseball game in St. Petersburg, Florida and I was miserable and remember it like yesterday. It was hot, humid, I was thirsty, and he would not buy me a drink. I swore I would never go to a baseball game again. Fast forward to our trip to San Francisco and at the last minute we decided to attend the Giants and Philles game with our youngest daughters family and our grandson Fin. I was pleasantly surprised how much fun it was, but even more so to witness what is good about America. From the singing of the National Anthem with an F-16 flyover to singing “Take me out to the Ballgame” it was a demonstration of all types of American’s getting together to celebrate all that is good. From peanuts and popcorn to hot dogs and cracker jacks nothing but good clean fun. Crowded and loud with huge big screen TV’s just an experience you can never forget. It did not hurt that the average temperature that day was in the low 60’s so no worries about getting hot. We had seats on the 3rd base line and could easily see all the action. I felt proud to be an American and if like many you are concerned about the future of America do yourself a favor and go to a ballgame. It will restore your faith.

Skywalker Ranch

I will briefly mention Skywalker Ranch in that you have to know someone fairly high up to visit and it is not open to the public. My son-in-law’s brother is a major sound engineer there and has won 2 Oscars for Inception and Dunkirk while working there so he showed us around and bought us lunch at their corporate restaurant that had really good food. It was built by George Lucas after the success of the very first Star Wars movie. He still owns the physical plant and grounds but the operation and management is now owned by Disney. Essentially it is multiple sound stages to edit and finish movies and it seems a significant number of movies are finished there. We learned that sound is the last thing added to a movie.  The equipment is extensive and impressive and highly complex.

Follow up on Homelessness

San Francisco still has an issue with homelessness. We saw some of it and at least where we were it was not extensive. Someone sleeping on the sidewalk in this city block, a tent in a block or two away. Sort of spread out. But we had an interesting experience trying to help one gentleman out. Our first day we noticed this elderly man with a very long beard just waking up on our way to breakfast. At least once on any given trip we will buy a meal for a street person if we see one. We do understand we will never solve the problem and we wonder if we are only making the situation worse but long ago we decided even though we can’t help everyone, we can at least offer nourishment to at least one person and who knows what positive benefit that might bring. It truly is not for us to judge. At breakfast we planned on purchasing one breakfast to go for the man so we asked the server if they knew anything about him? And they did. They told us he had never been any trouble, was law abiding, but had been at that exact spot on the street now for 17 years. We had a double take! 17 years? Think about that. What person voluntarily chooses to live on the street for 17 continuous years. I am certain some social agency had to have tried to help him find housing and receive benefits but he obviously made a conscious decision to stay where he remains. He is not alone. Having tried to help veterans through veterans programs I see this over and over. Many homeless people refuse all help. They don’t want to be told what they can and cannot do. They don’t want to be in a shelter where they are told they cannot smoke. This gentleman was smoking. They refuse to be regimented. I get it, it is a free country and he is free to choose to live on the street. But is he? What impact is he having on the community. There is a new debate starting on at what point are these individuals placed somewhere against their will and based on what grounds. I have no answer but clearly I was shocked he had been there for 17 years.

San Francisco Restaurants Something Old, Something New

Miller and Lux San Francisco

700 Terry A Francois Blvd

San Francisco, CA

415-872-6699

We returned to Miller and Lux again, a steakhouse owned and operated by celebrity chef Tyler Florence. The food and service continue to be excellent and the décor is high-end and relaxing. Immediately after sitting down, you are offered a selection of sparkling wine to choose from at various price points but we purchased this trip by the bottle. The restaurant has a wide variety of classic steak cuts and accompaniments also. They allow you to bring your own wine with a modest corkage fee. Overall it was a memorable meal again but the prices were the highest we paid on our trip and the wine prices on the wine list were in La La land but it seems that way all over San Francisco but I was able to purchase 2 bottles that enhanced dinner.  The desserts were to die for.   They were things like chocolate mousse or key lime pie but looked like a piece of fruit.  Here is a picture.  

Kokkari Estiatorio Greek Restaurant

200 Jackson St.

San Francisco, CA 94111

415-981-0983

This continues to be a favorite place in San Francisco. It is primarily a high-end Greek Restaurant with all your favorites like great lamb souvlaki. They had an extensive wine list Very friendly and helpful staff and well prepared fresh food. I again had one of the best Greek salads that was sublime. We tried the hummus platter that was to die for. It was a very nice long relaxing lunch and we will continue to return. The bill was the second-highest during our trip and it was for lunch no less but to us worth the price. We always leave feeling we have received great value eating here.

Mathilde San Francisco

315 5th St.San Francisco CA 94107

415-546-6128

It is no secret we like French cuisine and this place continued to satisfied all of our French desires. Everything is a classic French presentation and all of our favorites. This trip we had Rack of Lamb that was beyond excellent with a unique and great sauce. The service was professional and friendly. Coffee and dessert were again classic. It’s a small and out-of-the-way place but worth the trip for classic French.

Foreign Cinema San Francisco

2534 Mission St.

San Francisco CA 94110

415-648-7600

Let me be very clear here. This is continues to be the best most fun and unique dining experience and high-top shelf experience I have had in years. Having dinner here was one of the reasons we decided to go to San Francisco this trip and if I had my own private jet I could see me flying over just for dinner. The neighborhood is continuing to improve. The bitcoin seller next door is gone but a payroll advance store is still across the street. The restaurant is in an old movie theater and inside the dining room is divided into two rooms one of which shows an old movie each evening and that is the theme of the night. The menu was extensive and everything is made in-house fresh. The menu both for food, wine, dessert wines, cocktails, drinks is extensive and takes some time to take in. You had to be impressed that they still had 3 different renditions of “Pappy” Old Rip Van Winkle Whiskey from 12 years old to 23 years old. It is one of the rarest whiskey in the world and to find all of them on one menu is impressive. The American Whiskey choices alone were over 50 choices. Dining choices were unique again. I had Moroccan Fried Chicken that was one of the most flavorful dishes I have had in a long time. They also had an extensive list of oysters and caviar as well. Service was professional and attentive and the overall ambiance was relaxed and calming. It was just a truly unique and wonderful dining experience that we will remember for a long long time.

                                   Moroccan Fried Chicken

Palette Tea House Dim Sum, Cantonese, and Seafood

900 North Point St, Ste B-201A

San Francisco, CA 94109

Located at Fairmont Heritage Place, Ghirardelli Square we discovered just walking around and noticed a very long line to get in. I used an old trick learned in France while standing in line went online on the phone and made reservations which went through OK. Then moved into the reservation line and got right in for lunch. The biggest surprise was they serve daily by the order Peking Duck and we love Peking Duck and since COVID have had a hard time finding it, especially just walking in. Usually you have to pre-order 24 hours in advance. They had exquisite dim sum but I am sure due to COVID no more carts, you have to order off the menu but no problem. They also had authentic Char-Sue which we have always loved. The food and drink was outstanding but the service was a little slow but the place was packed with locals and how can I complain when they have Peking Duck right now. This is now our preferred Asian restaurant in San Francisco now.

Get on the Next Plane Out to New Orleans, the New Food Capital of the World

Extra, Extra Read All About It!          Breaking News!          Hot Off The Wire!

Do Not Pass Go, Do Not Collect $200!

We have just returned from a 5 night trip to New Orleans and we are extremely happy and cannot wait to share our experiences with you. Our faith in the hospitality industry has been restored. The entire trip was a joy and wonderful.

I would like to start by congratulating our favorite airline Delta for the professionalism of their crews. Getting to NOLA was difficult. There was horrible weather from Texas to the east coast and all flights were delayed or canceled. In the end it we had a 6 hour delay in flying to NOLA due to bad weather. I was impressed with how Delta handled the situation. For one thing I finally through experience learned why I need the Delta App on my phone. It worked flawlessly. As my flights changed, were delayed, or were canceled the App constantly updated. I called an agent to change flights but before the agent could do anything the operations center notified me throughout the App that re-bookings had already taken place and everything was very accurate. We got to NOLA 6 hours late but safe with only one brief episode of above average turbulence.

At the Jacksonville airport all of the lounges were full, so closed to us, so we went to Shulas Restaurant in Terminal A and had a great dinner with outstanding service. It was obvious despite being extremely busy that the manager and staff worked very well together. The food was well prepared and delicious. A great respite while waiting.

The Troubadour Hotel

We arrived late, tired but alive, and our 5 Star Accommodations could not have been better. The friendly helpful reception desk met all requests within 1 hour. Housekeeping met all requests and had supervisor check with us to make sure. Rooms and bathroom very large and comfortable. Few amenities in room and they could use more electric outlets but understandably it is an old hotel. No pool or spa but Roosevelt pool and spa are one block away and available at same fee charged to Roosevelt guests. We were just so impressed with how helpful and caring the staff were and able to assist us. I highly recommend this hotel and for us the price was extremely reasonable for what you received.

The Roosevelt Hotel

Our friends stayed here and it is a famous and old hotel also and is part of the Waldorf Astoria operation. It is very fancy and trust me you pay for it. Our friends rooms were nice but to us very small. The pool and hot tub area on the roof were OK and we had fun there but the hot tub did not have massage jets and was not that hot which I prefer. Both the Troubadour and Roosevelt are both Hiltons and have Hilton Honors perks and are 2 blocks from Canal Street and 4 or 5 blocks at the start of Bourbon and Royal Street.

Restaurants

The Gumbo Shop is one of our favorites. They have been in their current location for decades and our server had been there for 17 years. We fondly remember the excellent gumbo they serve along with a variety of gumbos. They also have a selection of Creole dishes you seen pretty much every block in NOLA. Everything was cooked to perfection and we were so impressed we purchased multiple copies of their cookbooks, hot sauces, and spice jars to take home and share with others. We will return and highly recommend it to you.

Galatories is another long term restaurant in NOLA that has been there for decades if not a century or more. We had a wonderful lunch and I had fresh line caught Pompano, my favorite fish, cooked beyond perfection. They have a great wine list and an extensive menu. It is another place we will return to again and again. Highly recommend for lunch or dinner

Antoines is the oldest continuous service restaurant in the USA since around 1840’s. Classic Creole and Cajun dishes with lots of taste and great preparation and presentation. Service was wonderful again and a highly recommended place. It would have been our #1 place but after Revolution dropped to #2 in a tie with Galatories.

Restaurant R’evolution
777 Bienville Street
New Orleans, LA 70130
504-553-2277
Highly recommend Server Travis

“Restaurant R’evolution is the epitome of diverse tastes and flavors, the Holy Grail of dining experiences, my magnum opus. Your overture begins” Chef John Folse

I can only verify and repeat what Chef Folse has said about his restaurant in New Orleans. I can confirm it is one of the greatest meals of my life up there with what must be similar the two Three Emperor Dinners in Paris in the past. It was an epic exploration of the highest achievement in the Culinary Arts. We started off with an assortment of appetizers and the two that stood out for me was a poached Lobster salad that was just divine followed by A5 Japanese Kobe carpaccio which I have never seen anywhere and it just melted in your mouth. For dinner many of us shared Chateaubriand that was prepared perfectly and again melt in your mount flavor and tender cut with a fork. It did not hurt that we accompanied our meal with four outstanding wines and thank you to Tom for the reds, all 100 point stars described below. Service by Travis was impeccable and the highest service possible. Nothing was left to chance. Dinner was a well conducted symphony and I cannot wait to return soon. Again the best meal ever in the past number of years. Definitely #1.  Notice the happy diners!!

2008 Anderson’s Conn Valley Vineyards Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

To me there was an excellent bouquet and flavors of chocolate and cinnamon that followed through on the taste. The wine was well balanced with a firm body and good acidity.

98 points Wine Advocate

One of the few wineries to make a 2008 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve that eclipsed its 2007 counterpart is Anderson’s Conn Valley. A spectacular effort that is as black as a moonless night, this full-bodied wine boasts abundant aromas of creme de cassis, camphor and subtle oak presented in a voluptuously textured, full-bodied style with terrific richness and depth. Great intensity and opulence as well as a layered mouthfeel make for a remarkable wine that should age for 20-30+ years. (RP)(12/2010)

94 points Vinous

Fresh ruby-red. Musky blackberry, cassis, tobacco leaf and dark chocolate on the nose. Like liquid silk in the mouth, conveying a lovely impression of sweetness and shamelessness to its currant, dark cherry and cigar box flavors. Not outsized but dense, concentrated, smooth and lightly floral, with a firm-edged finish featuring substantial fine-grained tannins that eventually dust the front teeth. Wonderful subtle savory depth and complexity of flavor. (ST)(5/2018)

2007 Dominus Napa Valley Bordeaux Blend

What an exceptional wine. The nose was exceptional and gorgeous with a floral presentation especially jasmine. I felt the body was a light body complex with berry flavors. There was a berry taste and it frankly remiinded me of some screaming eagles I have had. It also had a lingering long great finish. As Lee Iaccoca has said if you can find it buy it.

100 points The Wine Independent

A blend of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Petit Verdot, the 2007 Dominus has a deep garnet color. After a swirl or two, it explodes from the glass with notes of crème de cassis, blueberry preserves, stewed plums, and rose oil, followed by touches of Sichuan pepper, cinnamon toast, and forest floor, with a hint of crushed rocks. The full-bodied palate reveals an incredibly firm, yet approachable, structure of ripe, grainy tannins and bold freshness to support the dense, multilayered, slowly evolving black and blue fruits, finishing with a whole firework display of spices, floral notes, and minerals.

99 points Wine Advocate

Deep garnet in color with a touch of purple, the 2007 Proprietary Red Wine flaunts wonderfully expressive, vibrant blackberries and black cherries scents to begin, giving way to black raspberries and redcurrants with touches of Indian spices, potpourri, chargrill, sage, espresso, unsmoked cigars and tilled soil plus a waft of cloves. Medium to full-bodied, the elegantly styled palate offers tantalizing restraint with a firm frame of very fine, pixelated tannins and compelling freshness, finishing very long with an invigorating lift. Although this wine will handsomely reward a further 5-7 years in cellar, it can offer a lot of pleasure now but will need a couple of hours of decanting. (LPB)(8/2018).

2013 Lokoya Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder Napa Valley

No question the darkest, blackest pitch black wine I have ever had. Highly concentrated and extracted with a balanced nose and taste. For me it had a ton of dark chocolate. Still full of fruit and to me mild acid. It will continue to age wonderfully and sent exceptionally well with our Chateaubriand.  I love most Mountain vineyards in Napa.

100 points Wine Advocate

A wine offering notes of grilled steak, steak tartare, beef blood, blueberries and blackberries galore...This 100% Cabernet Sauvignon wine is utterly profound, and while the scoring system ends at 100, if I had to pick a single wine that may have been my favorite of all the tastings I did in Napa, this could have been my pick. Full-bodied, rich, with incredible integration of its component parts of acidity, tannin, alcohol and wood, the wine is lavishly built, has compelling purity, richness and density, and a finish, again, that rivals that of the Howell Mountain, being close to one minute in length. This wine will be certainly approachable young, but last 30-40+ years. (RP)   (10/2015)

97 points Vinous

The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder is the most finessed of the Lokoya Cabernets. Powerful, incisive tannins provide the backdrop as this regal, towering Cabernet shows off its distinctive personality. Pine, menthol, wild flowers, sweet red berries, pomegranate and blood orange are laced together in a vivid, crystalline Cabernet with a very bright future. The 2013 gets better and better with time in the glass. Even today, though, it is simply magnificent. (AG) 97+(10/2015)

2022 Paul Pernot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Garenne

Yes, sometimes I exaggerate but not in this case. Clark and I did spend a half day with Paul Pernot at his home and did barrel tastings in his cellar under his home in 2012. He to me is one of Frances greatest wine makers. I love his wines and I have loved the Clos de la Garenne which is not a common one. So when I saw this on the menu I had to have it for dinner. The wine tonight was a fruit bomb. Lots of honeysuckle and pear on the nose and taste, very complex. There was moderate acid which is typical for this vineyard. The finish was medium but still there. To me the oak was slightly high and now days even France is lowering the oak print in their chardonnay’s. Paul Pernot has run the domaine since the 1950s and is easily in his 90s, but he's still spry. Speaking very little English, he is often assisted by his two sons who both are heavily involved in the running of the domaine.



93 points Jasper Morris

Pale colour with a light green tint. This has flesh and grip while the fruit style is not without elegance. The mineral acidity plays very nicely at the back. This wine has considerable potential. (12/2023)

K&L Notes

Bill Nanson Burgundy Report: "‘Always a little more power here’ – the clos shared with Magenta/Jadot. Planted in 1956…Lighter, extra floral component to this nose. Lighter but also wider and more mouth-watering. There’s finishing ‘pop’ of flavour that still has some oak – but what delicious wine”.

For a detailed review of many of Paul’s wines see this web site:

https://onethetrail.klwines.com/on-the-trail-blog/2024/1/19/paul-pernot

Available by the glass for dessert at Revolution

2008 The Royal Tokaji Wine Co. Essencia(only the second time I have seen on a wine list in my lifetime).  We had this specific wine last year on the Queen Mary and it was a spiritual experience.  I also gave a full bottle to my friend Tom for his 60th birthday that I found stuffed behind a shelf in the back of the room at Sam's Wine Warehouse(Now Binions) Southside Chicago.  A case of this original wine was given to Catherine the Great of Russia yearly in tribute so she would not invade Hungary.  It is the highest quality Tokaji wine in the world and many will say the greatest sweet wine in the world.

Chateau D'Yquem Sauternes in multiple years by the glass, always a treat!


New Orleans Creole Cookery was our choice for Mothers Day Brunch and again a wonderful dining experience, again with Creole and Cajun dishes. My favorite where was a the charbroiled oysters which to me were the best oysters we had during our trip. Excellent service and again highly recommended

Two Chicks Breakfast and Lunch

One block from The Roosevelt and The Troubadour no question the best breakfast place in town with outstanding attentive service and great well and properly prepared food and large portions of your classic American Breakfast. Almost too much food. Very friendly engaging staff.

MS RAU

Owned by Bill Rau and his family since early 1900’s a museum, art, furniture, jewelry store with some of the rarest finds on the planet that most of which are for sale. One example is Napoleon's desk from St. Helena. We had a personal tour by Bill that was great and everyone is welcome to visit. The things for sale will bankrupt most of us. One of his customers purchased a 2 million dollar painting while we were there. He had an original Degas I was interested in but I do not have enough stuff to mortgage to afford it. His jewelry is to die for, some of the most beautiful pieces I have ever seen. Do your self a favor and visit. It takes about 2 or 3 hours just to catch the basic stuff.  You will see their ads daily in the New York Times.

Observations

Everyone we met, served us, spoke with us were 100% polite, kind, helpful and caring. It has been a long time since I felt this cared for. I guess they don’t call it the Big Easy for no reason. The city just had such a positive vibe that I have not seen as much around the world since COVID. Service everywhere was outstanding and attentive.

It was somewhat interesting but almost every creole and Cajun restaurants menus were to me identical with the same items, gumbo, shrimp creole, barbecue shrimp, etc. Frankly we tried a couple of them and the dishes and to me all of the food was outstanding but all the recipes to me were pretty close. I would say pick one or two and just stick to them and none of the others will be much different.

The roadways and pathways and sidewalks were all pretty much like Europe some worse than others. Uneven pavement, pot holes everywhere including the side walks, nothing repaired or modernized. It is obvious they have no funded improvements to infrastructure for some time. Wear good solid walking shoes and if gait challenged maybe carry a cane for balance.

NOLA should be visited late autumn to early spring. From mid May to end of October heat and humidity is brutal. Our last trip in September we could never get our hotel room cool enough and outside was like walking in a hot sauna. Our mid May trip was better and comfortable. In the South there is a thunderstorm with lightening somewhere daily. You need to be prepared that any flights in the South will be delayed significantly so plan accordingly. It helps a lot if you have lounge access to wait in a more comfortable environment. Pay attention to your airline app and monitor it constantly for gate and departure times. Our most recent trips both the Delta and United Apps worked perfectly and kept us well and accurately informed. We were able to stay home longer before leaving for the airport because of immediate updates on our flights through the apps.

Bourbon Street

Like all of us I was once young and adventurous and had no problem staying up all night drinking on Bourbon Street and dancing the night away. That ship sailed a long time ago. I no longer go and frankly I recommend you avoid Bourbon Street all together anymore. We were there at 6 PM and already it was full of sick, passed out, rough looking individuals with human liquids on the streets and police every 2 feet. Frankly today after 6 PM the place is dangerous. We could not get an Uber from Antiones as it is on a side street to Bourbon and the Uber app required us to walk out of the French quarter to catch an Uber. The Uber restricted area is about 10 square blocks around the Royal Sonesta Hotel. To confirm how dangerous a few years ago when we stayed at the Royal Sonesta as we enjoyed our breakfast we watched the streets being cleaned to wash off the blood where 10 people had been shot at 2 AM that morning from a bad drug deal. Our Uber driver told us they are not allowed to enter the area after 6 PM. That kind of entertainment no longer appeals to me and Clark is very happy. Royal Street parallels Bourbon street and is much more sedate and has some of the best shops in town, example MS Rau. So go to Royal Street in the morning and early afternoon and have lunch but leave the area in general before 6 PM. If you have reservations at some of the top restaurants in the area if you cannot walk get an Uber or Taxi who will drop you off but after 6 PM you will have to walk a couple of blocks to exit the French Quarter to catch a ride back.

 

 

 

Bad Review Ritz Carlton Bacara Santa Barbera California

First an apology. I have not published any new articles for some time now. It is because I have had no new travel or dining experiences worth writing about. It goes along with my basic philosophy which is to provide you with information on exceptional, spectacular, worth you time experiences in wine, travel and food at a reasonable cost, or rarely experiences you should avoid. So arriving in Santa Barbara, California I was provided with a wealth of information to share with you some good, and sadly some bad. We came to attend the Chaine des Rotisseurs Mondiale weekend at the Ritz Carlton Bacara for the Jeunes Sommeliers Final Competition to select the Sommelier of the USA will attend the World Sommelier Competition in Europe representing the USA. Sixteen years ago we attended the same event here at the Bacara and were overwhelmed as to the luxury and world class food and service we experienced. For the past 16 years we have considered the Bacara one of our top 5 destinations in the world so were highly excited to return now so any bias I may have had would be positive.

The Ritz Carlton Bacara

One of my favorite books is "You can't go home again" by Thomas Wolfe. A large part of my life was coming to peace with the fact that as much as I fantasized as to how wonderful places I had been and lived were so great I had to learn to accept that when I returned years later it simply was not the same place I remembered and too many times the reality of today was that those places had changed for the worst and were nothing like I wanted to remember. Very sadly we are highly disappointed on our return to the Bacara. It is not what it was 16 years ago. The good news is the physical plant, buildings and architecture, and grounds continue to be beautiful and compelling. Other than that the place has gone down hill.

To begin with there was a serious lack of dining venues. My understanding from discussions with some resort managers is the hospitality industry as a whole is doing away with room service, fine dining, and any kind of up scale food service and instead concentrating on banquet services and low end dining venues with very limited menu selections at fairly high prices for what you get. Example a $30 hamburger or a $26 Pina Colada or a $48 breakfast buffet and all of them ++ and I should say for parties of 8(think families with small children) a 26% service charge the highest I have ever seen. They say they lose money on food and beverage especially room service. How the Bacara loses money is beyond me at those prices. All the bean counters do is concentrate on the bottom line of every venue. Instead of looking at the bottom line at the end of the year for the venue as a whole and a list of happy complimentary customers who appreciate the good service and great dining options the company higher ups decide to only concentrate on the big ticket items like gala dinners for 200 people at a company function. We live on an Omni Resort that has publicly stated as far as they are concerned they would offer no dining options on property. To their credit on check in they provide you with a list of nearby restaurants to go to for meals. The evening we arrived at the Bacara there were no available dining options for dinner other than limited room service as they were involved with a large corporate event that for all intents shut down everything. When staff was asked what alternatives they might recommend they stated "We don't know please hold why we ask someone else? In addition we had breakfast one morning that for two people was over $100 and had to complain to the manager as my wife's meal was never delivered to the table. Excuse me? Coming from a high end Ritz resort. To me unacceptable.

There was a serious lack of attention to detail. Our first night after arrival we tried to turn on a lamp only to find out the bulb assembly area had broken loose and the bulb and wires were hanging down. We wanted to use the coffee machine only to find the water reservoir with a crack in it. We requested special bed linen procedure due to a medical condition and just prior to bed on returning from a walk they completely ignored our requests. But what was most alarming was every day we were there even after explaining the situation to the housekeeper in the room they just ignored us and refused to follow our requests, despite this being less of a comfort option and more of a medical need. Again too many small things which pointed to a lack of care and attention to detail. When were they going to replace a broken lamp, once someone got electrocuted? It seemed that no one communicated concerns or areas that needed attention and certainly did not reflect the kind of attention you should expected based on the price they were charging. It was clear communication that management is more interested in making money than taking care of their customers which is a 100% deal breaker for me and mine.

I am more than willing to pay high prices for outstanding products and service. My experience is you get what you pay for and I expect to receive the service paid for. But at some point prices become completely offensive and have no relation to what you are receiving. I believe today it is because today's managers are following what I have been told is the Harvard business model which is to charge whatever the market will bear and you will eventually learn how high you can go when people stop buying your product. This is in contrast to what I believe should the model which is what I call the Henry Ford model which is produce and make the best high quality product at the lowest price possible making a reasonable profit and make money by selling millions or billions of units of your product. It took a while but I finally reviewed their better wine list and the wine prices were the highest I have ever seen and to me offensive. In general you did not receive good value for the prices Bacara charged. In comparison today we love Pelican Hill in Newport Beach, California whose prices are as high or higher than the Bacara but the food, beverage, and service, even at a higher price, provided us with great value and we can't wait to return to Pelican Hill and hopefully it is a place we can come home again without being disappointed.

It is my opinion that staff was unable to deliver service because their hands were tied by managements policy and procedures. It is obvious every staff person has been trained to say at the end of their conversation with you to say ":And if there is anything you need please do not hesitate to ask and we will take care of it immediately". It was very frustrating to speak with staff and have them tell you they could not help you and then tell you to go ahead and ask again for anything. It was maddening and obvious that management had no intention of the staff being authorized to do something different other than to tell you please ask for help over and over. We asked for housekeeping cleanup between 9 and 10 AM and vacated the room so they could do it. We returned at 11:30 AM and they had not been there and the rest of our stay showed up later in the day usually when we were trying to take a nap. Staff was friendly and available but in the end lacked any authority to actually help you. Here is an example of what we expect. We arrived at the Grand Hyatt in Tampa years ago late at night and worn out. We were going to get room service but nothing on the room service menu appealed to us. We called the front desk and explained the situation and they said let us bring all of our restaurant menus to your room and you can order anything from any menu and we will deliver it to your room. Forget the Bacara doing anything like that, they might lose $20. I can tell you to this day we have driven 100 miles out of our way to repeatedly return and stay at the Grand Hyatt Tampa which we highly recommend to you. The Grand Hyatt staff is empowered by management to care for their guests and make on the spot decisions to solve problems for their guests. Our experience is that the Bacara does not, but trains the staff to always say “Please call us anytime for anything and we will take care of it immediately”.

One small insult was when we checked in a hold was placed on my credit card at check in to guarantee payment. This is not unusual as most hotels today do this but it is usually a modest amount so far in my experience. What was insulting is the entire stay plus in my opinion an excessive additional amount was added to I assume cover 3 meals a day at inflated prices again to guarantee payment that of course would not be charged at check out if not used. But ask yourself what message does this send. I received the message we are primarily interested in full payment or guarantee of same at the start of your stay and we do not trust you and frankly don’t care because what is important to us is the money and not you. In the end we were terribly disappointed during our stay at the Bacara and have no intention of every going there again and recommend everyone else stay away. I have seen comments on Trip Advisor where I note multiple terrible and poor reviews echoing my comments. Fool me once shame on you, fool me twice shame on me.

Santa Barbara Wines

I am also sorry to report that I have no specific Santa Barbara wines to recommend to you which was one my intents for this trip. I will say in general the Samsara wines are ones to try. They are of course good and great wines. My primary problem with Santa Barbara wines is with style more than anything. As a general observation I found all of them somewhat higher in acid than what I like. It makes them food friendly of course but to me due to the higher acid presentation they tend to me to be less complex. I also am highly biased towards Burgundy Pinot’s and have yet to find a Pinot from elsewhere that I can recommend other than the Del Dotto Pinot’s from Napa that I have found compelling this past year.

Coming up soon!

Clark and I are off to New Orleans for a long weekend for food, wine, and fun. Right now we have reservations at Antoine's and Revolution. We will be staying at the 4 star Troubadour Hotel just down from the Roosevelt Hotel. So hopefully I will have some good recommendations for NOLA soon. Stay tuned