The grand finale dinner was a culmination of culinary excellence along with spectacular wines from the two vineyards. Following two wine seminars, guests were able to enjoy the wines with special menu items selected especially for the wines presented. I have provided both my own as well as the professional reviews of the wines presented as well as my impressions on the wine and food pairings understanding we all taste both food and wine at times differently. I would say in general the food match-ups were what you might expect with one exception at the beginning that turned out to be a wonderful exception.
1st Course
Lemon Sole with fennel puree, toasted sourdough, lemon brown butter, chervil and apple
2016 Spottswoode, Mary's Block, Sauvignon Blanc, St. Helena, Napa Valley V 92
The nose and bouquet presented a tart apple and pear flavor profile that was bright. The taste was a little harsh but immediately dissipates presenting a predominant flavor of Granny Smith tart apple. Acid content is moderate and food-friendly.
92 points Vinous "The 2016 Sauvignon Blanc Mary's Block emerges from a single parcel on the estate property right next to Spring Creek. Dense and surprisingly powerful, the 2016 is built to show off textural volume and intensity rather than the brighter aromas and flavors that are typical of Sauvignon. The 2016 was done entirely in oak, 8% new. More importantly, it is a wine of real personality and class. (AG)"
2017 Kistler, Lagune Ridge Vineyard, Russian River Valley, Chardonnay WS 97 RP 95
I have this wine in my cellar in magnum. The nose presented with a flint, mineral profile making me think that Kistler was now back on track making Chardonnay in the French European style. It truly was closer to Burgundian than California style. There was a taste of tart pear with mild oak and vanilla overtones. The finish was slightly harsh but long. Again acid was moderate and food-friendly.
97 points Wine Spectator "Rich and powerful, with an unctuous creaminess to the ripe apple and pear flavors, featuring notes of dried tropical fruits, backed by engaging fresh acidity. Hints of dried savory herbs show on the finish, revealing concentrated minerality and buttery nuances.
95 Points Robert Parker "The 2017 Chardonnay Laguna Ridge Vineyard features scents of baclava, baked apple, quince paste, lime peel, and warm yellow peaches with notions of gunflint, hazelnut, citrus blossoms, and crushed stone. Medium-bodied with a lovely creamy texture, it has an intense flavor layers, uplifting tangy acidity, and a very long flavorful finish.
Food match - A perfect example of how preconceived ideas regarding food and wine matching are frequently wrong. Both Clark and myself prior to any tasting predicted immediately the Kistler Chardonnay would match best in that it would be buttery and like a French Montrachet that "always" goes great with "sole" right? Not so fast. Not here. In fact, the Spottswoode was the better match. Even though it was a Sauvignon Blanc because of its balance and lighter presentation it matched the lemon sole perfectly. The Kistler seemed to clash somewhat and I suspect it was due to a little harshness to the wine. The delicacy of the fish matched with the softness and acid of the wine was a match made in heaven.
2nd Course
Lobster and Quail salad with Belgium endive, red sorrel, celery root puree, toasted walnut roasted grape vinaigrette
2016 Kistler Natalie Cuvee Silver Belt Vineyard Pinot Noir JD 97 RP 95
The nose and bouquet was a heavy red cherry but also had some complexity with a rose perfume smell. A somewhat bitter cherry taste that was tart and tannic. Tannins were well developed and acid to me was somewhat high. Again there was a lot of tannin due to its youth and consistent with Kistler Pinots.
97 points Jeb Dunnuck "The 2016 Pinot Noir Cuvée Natalie is a mix of Calera and Swan clones as well as cool, more iron oxide-driven soils. It offers more red fruits with sensational notes of strawberries, spice, and wet stone literally soaring from the glass. Perfectly balanced, with ultra-fine tannin and a seamless texture, drink this complex, layered, multi-dimensional Russian River Valley Pinot Noir anytime over the coming 10-15 years."
95 points Robert Parker "Medium ruby-purple in color, the 2016 Pinot Noir Cuvee Natalie Silver Belt possesses quite an earthy nose of truffles, underbrush, tilled soil and mossy bark over a core of Black Forest cake, warm red and black plums and raspberry compote. Full-bodied and laden with black berry and earth layers, it has a velvety backbone and very long mineral-tinged finish."
Food Match - I was a little disappointed with the food match here as the wine due to its tannic structure seemed to overwhelm the food at times. The Quail was one of the best I have ever had, truly enjoyable, and the wine clearly matched better with the Quail. The fat in the meat balanced out the tannins well in the wine.
3rd Course
Carmen Ranch Beef Tenderloin with red creamer potatoes, baby kale, smoked vanilla-herb butter with a red wine reduction
2003 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena, Napa Valley Served from Magnum RP 95 W&S 94
A complex nose and bouquet of chalky, smoky, cedar chocolate, and cigar. I was impressed highly that this is still a young youthful puppy with no age on it continuing to evolve for years. On the taste was pucker up tannins with a flavor of licorice and chocolate. The finish was pleasant and long. Acid and tannin through extensive were moderate and balanced. I noticed a hint of color loss on the edges but you would have never known this was an aged wine based on the taste. To me, it was a complex wine well made and well structured that should age for years but I admit with the color showing some loss, even though minimal, the wine might rapidly deteriorate quicker than expected. Reminds me of the 2003 French Bordeaux's who initially came out not that highly rated, after a few years developed extremely well and approached higher ratings than expected then crashed and burned and rapidly matured so you had to go and drink them fast.
95 points Robert Parker "In 2003, production jumped up to 3,700 cases, with the blend identical to so many other vintages with 96% Cabernet Sauvignon and 4% Cabernet Franc. This was a year where there were some freaky heat spells, but this wine has come through nicely. Deep bluish purple with notes of blackberry and cassis and charcoal followed by a soft, velvety-textured, opulent, and full-bodied wine that seems to be approaching full maturity. It is interesting, this wine is far more evolved, and on a faster evolutionary track than the 2001 or in 2002. Nevertheless, it is a beauty, loaded, layered, and impressive. It must be one of the top 2003s. Drink it over the next 20-some years. (RP)"
94 points Wine & Spirits "The Spottswoode estate celebrates its 125th anniversary this year, and its latest release is a fitting tribute to the vineyard on the property first planted in 1916 by the Spotts family. The Novak family bought Spottswoode in 1972 and replanted the vines. Tony Soter made the first Spottswoode Cabernet in 1982; this current vintage was made by Rosemary Cakebread. Her '03 is lovely, a wine of tremendous richness packed with black currant flavor. It's smooth and lush, a sleek Napa Valley red, destined to be a classic."
2010 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon, St. Helena, Napa Valley RP100 ST 97
A super dark black color with no edge loss. Of all the wines this weekend this one had the darkest color. Opens up with a licorice nose and bouquet as well as Jasmine so a complex nose. Again a young wine with young tannins still even after 10 years. A nice smooth mouthfeel. A very well, balanced wine with moderate acid integrated with the tannins well. A long pleasant finish. Clearly deserves the 100 point rating. I wrote this prior to reading the following reviews and was pleased to note that my comments regarding the smooth mouthfeel as well as the licorice taste and floral characteristics were picked up by the professional tasters. Gives me faith in my tasting abilities.
100 points Robert Parker "Production in this cooler year than 2009 produced 2,586 cases and the blend was 92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. Consistently perfect from barrel and bottle multiple times, the 2010 is one of the recent blockbuster efforts from Spottswoode. Superb aromatics of spring flowers, blue and black fruits, forest floor, and a touch of toast, are followed by a wine of exceptional intensity, texture, purity, and a full-bodied finish with velvety, but noticeable tannins. This is still extremely young, but also remarkably impressive even though it is only six years of age. Expect this to hit its prime in about 10 years and last for at least 40. (RP)"
97 points Vinous "A rich, exotic beauty, Spottswoode's 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon is one the most representative wines from a cold vintage that was marked by heat spikes at the end of the growing season. That contrast makes for a viscerally thrilling wine endowed with magnificent complexity and pure class. Powerful and unctuous, with tremendous depth and tons of character, the 2010 is a total stunner. Dark plum, cherry, chocolate, spice, and new leather all flesh out in this vivid, utterly breathtaking wine. There is so much to love here. (AG)"
96 points Stephen Tanzer "Good bright ruby. Huckleberry, blackberry, violet, and licorice on the scented nose; became increasingly floral with air--a real essence of its St. Helena site. Enters the mouth suave, silky and floral; wonderfully pliant in spite of its acid-driven energy, precision, and youthfulness. The wine's perfume and definition pique the taste buds in the middle palate and on the very long, rising finish, where the noble tannins play a supporting role without impinging. This wonderfully youthful, floral wine appears to be at the beginning of a long plane of peak drinkability. Really fills the mouth with perfume, but not at all weighty or overly fleshy. Finishes with great sappy, rising length, and grip. My sample was even better after 72 hours. (ST, for Vinous)"
Food Match - Both wines matched well with the food. Tasting as young as they both did the tannin structure was perfect for the fat of the meat and both to me were equal matches with nothing off or unbalanced. In summary, both wines were outstanding choices to have with beef and I would add with other meats as well including wild game. In general, I personally liked the 2003 best only because I was so impressed was how young it presented given its age. I only wish my body would perform the same at my age!
4th Course
Milk Chocolate Mousse with roasted pecans, cranberry orange coulis, smoked dark chocolate powder, dried meringue chips, cranberry compote, caramelized cocoa nibs.
2015 Domain de Durban, Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, France
Alas, I could find no professional reviews of this wine so mine will have to do. Dominating the Southern Rhône Valley from the foothills of the Mont Ventoux, Domaine Durban enjoys stunning views of the area and is in the Gigondas region. I must confess I have a bias herein that the Vacqueyras wines of the Southern Rhone are my favorites. Muscat de Beaumes de Venise is considered by many one of the best of all the Muscat wines made in Southern France, and Durban is considered the best estate. The wines have distinctive Muscat flavors of flowers, tropical fruit, and honey. A basic dessert wine that goes with foie gras, melon, and Roquefort cheese. I found the wine to have a nice nose of honey but the taste was somewhat bitter and tannic which made me think it was fermented with stems in the must. On the taste, the honey taste continues. The wine went well with the dessert dish which I have included a photo of as it was an artistic presentation.
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