Clearly, an evening to remember and a grand ending to a grand week in Napa celebrating Life, Love, Wine, and Friendship. Is there anything more? Clark and I certainly want to thank everyone for their hospitality and inclusiveness during the week including all the winemakers who invited us into their homes and estates. What memories and to end it at the French Laundry was in a word spectacular. The two pictures are of Ross & Clark with Thomas Keller in 2001 and then again in 2018. A 17-year difference and frankly both of us don't look too worn for the experience. It has been an honor to know Chef Keller over the years though we remember him more than he remembers us. I can imagine the hundreds of thousands of people he has met over the past 20 or so years. He is the master and deserves all the accolades he receives. Now onto the wines for the evening. What a classic dinner with a Montrachet, a Lafite, a Mouton, and a D'Yquem. It doesn't get any better than that!
Bouchard Pere & Fils Montrachet 2011 BH96 IWC93 WS97
Clark and I were glad to be able to make our small contribution to this hedonistic week of food and wine providing our absolute favorite White Burgundy in the world, Montrachet. The Montrachet vineyard has been around for hundreds of years and for most is recognized as the top, best, most outstanding white wine in the world. It is exotic and powerful. This particular wine from 2011 was explosive in its mineral and terroir content that could at times overwhelm you. I thought it was interesting that one of the lower-rated wines we had this week a Montrachet was somewhat lower-rated than the reds. Here are comments from other reviewers on this particular wine.
Burghound says: "There is an extraordinarily powerful effort with impressive mid-palate density and so much dry extract that it imparts a sappy even seductive texture to the mouth coating flavors that terminate in a breathtakingly long finish there is just another dimension present here. In sum, this beautifully well-balanced Monty is an absolute knockout! '
Steve Tanzer says: 'Good pale yellow. Deeply pitched aromas of apricot, musky truffle, and smoky oak. Fat and sweet--in fact downright exotic. '
Bruce Sanderson WS says: "explosive on the palate, it offers power, concentration and another dimension, expressing peach jam, honey, and buttered pastry flavors, with a finish that seems to go on forever"
1986 Chateau Lafite Rothschild RP100/98 WS94
Something very interesting happened on the way to the office here? This wine started out 22 years ago as a 100 point wine. But a couple of years ago Parker downgraded it 2 points to a 98? First time I have seen that and at least for me I would not notice the difference and if you read Parkers description I don't see any reason he would drop the rating. Both ratings seem the same to me. Check out what the raters had to say here:
Robert Parker's Wine Advocate from October 1994 100 points
1986 possesses outstanding richness, a deep color, medium body, a graceful, harmonious texture, and superb length. The penetrating fragrance of cedar, chestnuts, minerals, and rich fruit is a hallmark of this wine. Powerful, dense, rich, and tannic, as well as medium to full-bodied, with awesome extraction of fruit, this Lafite has immense potential. Patience is required. Anticipated maturity: 2000-2030. Last tasted 10/94.
98 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 12/2016 22 yrs later
Tasted at the château, the 1986 Lafite-Rothschild continues to offer an exquisite bouquet at 30 years of age. This is beautifully defined, still full of energy, with copious blackberry, clove, leather and graphite aromas that seem to gain momentum in the glass. The palate is extremely well balanced with a crystalline quality, filigree tannin, perfectly pitched acidity, a quintessential Lafite-Rothschild with a sense of energy and focus undiminished by time. This finish displays immense purity and refinement, one of the most mineral-driven Lafites that I have encountered, whilst the aftertaste seems to linger for over one minute. It must rank as one of the finest wines from the estate. (NM)

(12/2016)
94 points Wine Spectator
A firm, young wine. Dark ruby color. Intense aromas of blackberry and mint. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and a long finish. Still needs time. (JS)

Jancis Robinson
A mild winter followed by a cold and wet spring to start the year. Fortunately, a hot summer interspersed with storms in July and August, and an absolutely exceptional after-season, wiped out the worries experienced before the summer, allowing the grapes to be harvested in perfect condition. The harvest took place without a single day of rain and at a particularly slow pace to be sure that our precious grapes reached maximum ripeness. A great year with radiant wines! This was by far the most youthful and concentrated of the trio (1983, 1985, and 1986) of Lafite vintages served blind with masses of tannins still in evidence. Sweet and arguably just slightly lacking freshness and energy compared with the 1985 – also thicker. But there is still the Lafite polish. This could be drunk now but should last an age. More solid and stolid than most Lafites.
1986 Chateau Mouton Rothschild ST98 Everyone Else100
An embarrassment of riches here. Every review rated this wine at 100 points except Steve Tanzer. He must have had a bad day the day he tasted it. I have had the wine a couple of times now and there are simply no flaws in the wine. It is seamless. Check out these detailed reviews. I could not do any better. It should dawn on all of us there follows not one, not two, but 4 100 point reviews. I don't recall ever have seen that before.
100 points Decanter
Wonderful, concentrated and still astonishingly young, this has brushes of violet aromatics rising above the tight cassis fruits and rich black truffle, and the classic menthol edging of a Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated Pauillac. We drank this over lunch and it was breathtaking, but were told that 24 hours later it had blossomed even further, so make sure you give this a serious amount of time in a carafe to open up - something that gives you just a small clue as to how structured, layered and complex the wine we are dealing with here is. 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot.
100 points Jeb Dunnuck
The 1986 Mouton-Rothschild is a behemoth that almost has a California-like richness and sweetness of the fruit. Offering incredible yet classic Cabernet Sauvignon notes of crème de cassis, tobacco leaf, lead pencil shavings, and wood smoke, this beauty starts out reticent and backward (which is mind-blowing for a wine that’s 32 years old) yet opens up gorgeously with time in the glass. Full-bodied, deep, rich, and unctuous, yet still incredibly pure and lively, it’s a sensational, benchmark Bordeaux that probably has another 2+ decades of longevity.
100 points James Suckling
This is finally coming around with such fine tannins and beautiful fruit after all these years. Full and balanced. Historical. And so long. Beautiful. Fresh and bright.
100 points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate
The 1986 Mouton-Rothschild is a blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot that was picked from 2 October until 16 October. Winemaker Philippe Dhalluin, who was not working at the property back then, told me that the pH was fairly low at 3.54 when it is usually around 3.75, due to the natural tartaric acid in the vines. It has a powerful and intense bouquet as always: exemplary graphite and cedar scents, a touch of black pepper, and incense. It seems to unfurl in the glass, like a motor revving its engine. The palate is beautifully balanced with its trademark firm tannic structure, a Mouton-Rothschild with backbone and masculinity. Layers of black fruit intermingling with mint and graphite, a hint of licorice emanating from the Merlot, gently fanning out and my God, it is incredibly long. It is not like the 1985 Mouton-Rothschild that is so fleshy and generous. This is serious, aristocratic Mouton, a true vin de garde and yes, I do think drinkers will have to wait until it reaches its true peak. Sometimes that's just the way it is. Drink from 2021-2050
98 points Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar
Very deep, saturated ruby with only a hint of garnet at the rim. Ripe red and black fruits, mint, vanilla, minerals, and delicate black pepper on the captivating nose. Very rich, big, and deep, with a luscious texture and ripe flavors similar to the aromas. Finishes smoothly tannic and very long, with building sweetness. This gorgeous Mouton, though massively built, also reflects the long hang time of the berries, which led to a perfect polymerization of its tannins and a fleshy structure. Still very much an infant: I wouldn't touch a bottle for at least another ten years. I also like the fact that, although it's very sweet and creamy, strong acidity (note the lower-than-usual pH) is keeping it vibrant. This vintage is the first in which Mouton vinified its young vines separately and only used those vats judged to be of grand cru quality. Following a slowdown in physiological ripening during August, the late harvest (October 2-16) permitted a longer growing curve. Tourbier noted that 'petit Verdot needs its head in the sun and its feet in the water, and as it had been initially planted on one of the highest, coolest sites at Mouton, a mistake on our part, it rarely ripened enough to be included in the grand vin, and this explains why we hardly used it in the older vintages.' (ID) 98+
1994 Chateau D'Yquem Sauterns Cellar Tracker 92
Though not considered one of D'Yquem's greater years it is still the thoroughbred D'Yquem in all its glory. A very tasty Sauternes that went well with the hedonistic presentation of desserts, pretty much every dessert French Laundry made that evening followed by an appearance of the Master himself, Thomas Keller. Wine Spectator says:
"Yellow-gold color. Intense aromas of petrol, spice, and honey, with dried apricot. Full-bodied, very sweet, with a green apple and honey character; petrol character comes through on the finish. Better with age "