Luc Morlet, whose brother Nicolas Morlet is the principal winemaker at Peter Michael Winery, preceded his brother but has his own winery just north of St. Helena and the Culinary Institute of America. It sits adjacent to Route 29 in a beautiful old building from the late 1800s. Morlet, who hails from the Champagne region of France, is on a hot streak in terms of the quality of the exquisite wines he is producing. This is an extraordinary lineup of Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Pinot Noir, and possibly the finest 100% Cabernet Franc ever made in California, his Force de la Nature. Morlet is hoping to use about 70% or more estate-grown fruit, as he has been busy acquiring property. He was a gracious host during our visit and passionate about his wines.
2009 Millesime Champagne Pierre Morlet WS90
I particularly liked this Champagne I found it to be clean and crisp and comparable to other high-end Champagnes and I bought a 6 pack. Only produced in the very best years. From the producer: "The Pierre Morlet Champagne style is rich, harmoniously balanced, and refined. The body is round and elegant with fruity notes of raspberry and wild strawberry, intermixed with hints of violet, expressing the predominance of the Pinot Noir. The Chardonnay adds structure and finesse as well as zesty lemon flavors with classic notes of William pear and acacia. The chalky subsoil into which the vines plunge their roots, provides the wines with a strong mineral background. The Champagnes exhibit complexity and depth brought by the diversity of the terroirs, the old age of the vines, the vivification, and the élevage (barrel ageing) in French oak barrels. Finally, the superbly small size and persistence of the bubbles in the glass prove that only the highest quality techniques are applied and that the Champagnes are released only at maturity." Just had a bottle with dinner and everyone raved about it. To me it is much better that the score indicates. It is bright and fresh with lots of well balanced fruit.
2016 Chardonnay Ma Douce JB97 RP95+
A very nice Chard, I gave it 2 stars. Starts with a lemon rind nose with lots or apple, pear also in the nose that follows through in the taste. Nice buttery oak with a complex flavor profile and nicely balanced. Had mild acid concentration and a moderate finish.
Jeb Dunnuck has this to say "
Leading off the Chardonnays, the 2016 Chardonnay Ma Douce (which translates to “My Sweet”) is a rich, full-bodied, blockbuster effort that still stays incredibly pure, seamless, and elegant. Heavenly notes of crushed citrus, flower oil, brioche, toasted nuts, and ample crushed rock notes all emerge from the glass, and it has vibrant acidity and is perfectly balanced. It’s a world-class Chardonnay."
Robert Parker says "The 2016 ‘Ma Douce’ is from a vineyard in Fort Ross-Seaview not far from Marcassin, on the second ridge in from the ocean and located at 1,300-1,500 feet in elevation. The vines are Old Wente clones planted on Goldridge soils. It begins a little youthfully reticent, opening out to notes of warm peaches, grapefruit, pear tart and toasted almond with hints of baking bread and chalk dust. Medium to full-bodied, the palate has a beautifully satiny texture with a racy line lifting the savory layers to a nice long finish"
2014 Coteaux Nobles Pinot Noir RP92
A hugh very sweet blackcherry and honey nose and taste. Mild earthiness and a long finish. To me a sweet Pinot but it was not overextracted. Robert Parker says "The 2014 Pinot Noirs behaved like most Sonoma Coast Pinot Noirs did on my trip. Showing lots of potential but coiled tightly, they are still somewhat monolithic, with lots of minerality, but difficult to coax open. It's hard to believe that the three cuvées of 2014 Pinot Noir will equal the 2012s and 2013s, but lets see what they do over the next 12 months, when I have a chance to taste them again"
2016 La Proportion Doree White Bordeaux Style RP98
This is a White Bordeaux varietals. The nose is oaky and smoky with tobacco and cedar in a complex flavor profile that carries over to the taste. At the same time is is light and somewhat sweet and I could detect some honey in it. To me it is one of those white wines you could fool the experts into saying it was a red wine. Robert Parker says The 2016 ‘La Proportion Dorée’ is a blend of 67% Sémillon, 32% Sauvignon Blanc and 1% Muscadelle from 30+- year-old dry-farmed vines barrel fermented with bâtonnage. It comes strutting out of the glass like a total rock star, singing notes of ripe grapefruit, lemon meringue pie and white peaches with hints of beeswax, lime blossoms, candied ginger and nutmeg. Medium to full-bodied, the palate lends a seductively satiny texture with layer upon layer of citrus and stone fruit notions and a racy backbone to support, finishing on a long-lingering chalky note"
2016 Chardonnay Coup De Coeur JB100
Clark loved this wine so we bought it and we both agreed that too us it was in fact a 100 point wine. But we had it later at home and compared it to the "Ma Douce" and changed our minds in that we prefer the "Ma Douce" a little better after second thought. In fact Robert Parker rated the 2015 100 points also though I could not for the life of me find a RP rating for the 2016 but no matter. To me it had a herbaceous nose with lemon pear and butter that followed in the taste. It had a wonderful velvet mouth feel and was fruit forward . I also picked up honeysuckle in the taste as well. The acid was moderate and I felt it would be very food friendly. It also had a great pleasant nice finish. It is a very well made wine. This is what Jeb Dunnuck had to say: "Pure perfection in the glass is the 2016 Chardonnay Coup de Cœur, a selection of Luc’s favorite barrels. It offers extraordinary notes of caramelized citrus, toasted brioche, marzipan, white flowers and a liqueur of rocks-like minerality. With full body, incredible purity, a layered, huge palate presence, yet a weightless, elegant texture, it needs to be tasted to be believed. Hats off to Morlet for an incredible Chardonnay. Give it a year and enjoy over the following decade or more.
2012 Passionnement Cabernet RP97
Started with a smoky tobacco and cigar nose but was very balanced. Also noted some smoked meat flavors on the nose and taste. Had a great velvet smooth mouthfeel. I picked up cherry here which I am finding more and more in higher quality Cabs. To me it is a nice blackberry flavor. This wine was not over oaked in fact my notes stated "hidden oak" which infers there is an oak presence and flavors but just the right amount to complement the wine. The finish was moderate lasting. Robert Parker said: The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Passionnement is lush and opulent with gorgeous fruit, super-ripeness, and plenty of black currant, blackberry, vanillin, toast and licorice characteristics. It is front end-loaded with enough gorgeous depth, stuffing and richness to ensure 20 years of longevity
2012 Mon Chevalier Cabernet RP96
It started with a sweet fruity nose with some stone thrown in. On the taste lots of chocolate. Acid was moderate. Again to me lots of fruity sweetness. Parkers comment regarding Christmas fruitcake is right on. Parker says: "Another killer effort from Luc Morlet is the 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon Mon Chevalier (91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot from Knights Valley). This beautiful wine displays a deep ruby/purple color, lots of minerality and plenty of blackberry and blueberry fruit intermixed with hints of menthol and Christmas fruitcake. The minerality is much more noticeable in this wine, no doubt because it comes from a higher elevation (600-800 feet) vineyard
2014 Coeue de Vallee Cabernet DW95
The nose and taste have a light smoke flavor with prominent cigar flavor. The mouthfell is velvet. On the taste lots of cassis and leather. To me the tannins were tight and young. I also detected some "candy" flavors reflective of the fruit in the wine. Doug Wilder had this to say: "The nose is all measured precision of carbon, herb, camphor, coffee and chocolate. I commented to Luc that I could just smell it all afternoon I was so captivated. The palate entry is the most vibrant and structured of all the wines showing a bright herb, coffee and firm red cherry fruit with solid acidity throughout. Drink 2019 - 2032."
2014 Morlet Estate Cabernet DW98
An earthy nose and taste but with a velvet mouth feel. Plenty of fruit taste and I noticed some lime flavors here. Had a very long finish. Doug Wilder has this to say: "The nose is ebulliently dense earth, cranberry, cedar, plum and blackberry with notes of fresh cut herbs. The palate entry is exceptionally rich and supple with a core of blue and black fruit that are polished, silky and effortlessly poised. With well-integrated oak, the 60-second finish is creamy, balanced black fruit, coffee and herb that grows even more appealing between 45 and 120 minutes after opening."
2014 Force De La Nature Cab Franc DW97
A very complex nose. I detected a very subtle buttery flavor along with lots of floral flavors and lavender. On the taste I picked up blackberry. The finish was long and smooth with very few hints of bitterness. Doug Wilder says: "The nose is a gorgeous black fruit, mint, warm notes of herb and mocha. The palate is firm, well structured and vibrant with a chocolate and espresso focused core. The finish is superbly integrated - polished and velvet-like blackberry, spice and carbon. It should be noted that Robert Parker rated the 2015 vintage of this wine at 100 points. Drink 2017 - 2032.
2012 Late Harvest Billet Doux DW99 RP97
I loved this wine, in fact I rated it 100 points and felt it compared right up there with Chateau D'Yquem especially the 1990 D'Yquem which I find to be a spiritual wine. Here are two reviews from Wilder and Parker
Doug Wilder A nose of dried meat, lemon curd, sea salt, apricot, white peach, pineapple with a note of toasted vanilla, blossoms and pine resin. The flavors are richly textured orange, apricot and verbena with fresh acidity. Finishes with crème brulee and integrated acidity. Gorgeous. Drink 2016 – 2040. d
Parker 2012 ‘Billet Doux’ Late Harvest White Wine 97 points Produced from 65% Sémillon, 31% Sauvignon Blanc and 4% Muscat, the 2012 ‘Billet Doux’ has a medium golden color and profoundly scented nose of beeswax, honeyed nuts, orange marmalade, Manuka honey and preserved lemons. Full-bodied, full-on sweet, rich, concentrated and oh-so-unctuous, it delivers powerful flavor layers and epic length.
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