Wine Spectator has just published their November 15th issue and the lead article is “Blockbuster Cabernets From Napa”. For one thing, it is an exciting article in that I leave for a wine tasting trip to Napa in 4 days so it could not be more timely. To be sure it is an extensive article and covers the 2018 vintage, one of the best in the past 10 years. On page 50 and 51 of the magazine you will find listings for the Top-scoring 2018s, Top-Scoring Late Releases, and Smart Buys. If you have been reading my blog you will find previous articles discussing wine pricing in general as well as prices for what many consider “marquee” or top shelf cult wines as compared to ordinary everyday wines. On those two pages mentioned you could not find a more starker comparison. After years of tasting thousands of wines including the top-shelf ones I have said that yes there is a difference and for those who can taste that difference and have the money by all means enjoy those wines.
But to me and others that difference is marginal and for me I have trouble justifying buying a bottle of Harlan Estate for $1,620 that is listed on the same page with Kirkland Signature Cabernet. The difference in rating is 97 to 90. For you math nerds out-there that is $230 difference per point. Another way to look at it is you can own 108 bottles for what you pay for the Harlan. I have had more than one glass of Harlan. I have met John Harlan. He is a visionary and has made spectacular wines, but at some point you just cannot justify what I would consider price gouging despite the winemaker being a great guy. Number 2 on the list are wines from Colgin. Again, I have visited the vineyard, I have tasted the wines, in fact the IX Estate is one of the greatest Cabernets I have ever tasted. When I visited the vineyard the wines had been offered under $500 a bottle. After my visit Colgin was sold and the new owner now sells the wine on release at $675. My question to myself is the greatest Cabernet I have ever tasted worth $675? I have had and purchased Bryant and have met the family but at $600 is it that good? Also listed are Hall and Spottswoode both of which I have had and visited. For the most part their wines are more reasonable around $200 a bottle and are presented along with the other higher priced wines.
Now look at the Smart Buys. Mount Veeder Winery Cabernet is the pick of the litter at $44 and 93 points. I can unequivocally state that this wine totally deserves the top pick here and I have tasted it multiple times and it is a spectacular wine. I know more than one restaurant who feature it as their house Cabernet. I had a CEO ask me once what Cabernet he should stock to serve at corporate events and with friends that would not embarrass him and bankrupt the company and I recommended Mount Veeder Cabernet. I say again if you want the best Cabernet available at the best rating and the best price I recommend Mount Veeder Winery Cabernet. You can buy 37 bottles of it compared to the same price as the Harlan.
And don’t be too quick to be embarrassed by Costco’s Kirkland brand. Two of their Cabernets made the list at 90 points and cost $15 and $20. For a nice everyday wine for dinner you cannot beat those wines and I have had many and they live up to the ratings. They are good wines. Years ago an individual published a quarterly magazine called QPR, quality, price, ratio, where he collated and listed in order all wines by their price and professional rating. At the top at number 1 was always the highest quality score with the lowest price compared against similar wines, for example all California Cabernets, or all California Chardonnays. Regrettably he stopped doing it most likely due to insufficient return on investment and excessive time and effort to publish the information. But with Wine Spectators list you can view what is there and sort of do it yourself as I have demonstrated above.
There are a ton of great wines out there and only you can decide what your price points are. They are different for all of us. But my main point here is don’t feel you have cheated yourself by paying $15 for a bottle of Kirkland Cabernet, and I am not saying just buy the Kirkland either. But you can feel good knowing the Kirkland made the same list as $1,620 Harlan. And finally, Mount Veeder Winery Cabernet 2018 is the best wine at the best price available.
No comments:
Post a Comment