Terroirs by Adeline

I am pleased to highly recommend Terroirs by Adeline Bourgogne's cooking class in Beaune, France.  We have been coming to Beaune and the Cote de Beaune and Cote de Nuits for over 20 years and we had heard many times how great the cooking schools are in the area learning the intricacies of great French cooking.  So on our last trip, we did one with one of Adeline's competitors and enjoyed it.  Then Covid hit ending our trips to France for close to 4 years.  In planning this year's trip we told our guy Stevie Bobes of Wineambasseur.com we wanted to do the cooking school this time also but now he recommended Terroirs by Adeline and we are so happy we chose her and her team.    Both schools we have attended follow a similar model.  You start your day with Adeline in the town market which on Saturday is fairly large and you walk around meeting vendors and selecting the fresh ingredients needed to prepare Adeline's recipes for lunch.  You select vegetables, cheese, sometimes fresh foie gras and the list goes on.  You then follow Adeline back to her "lab" as she calls it to start working for your supper so to speak.  Adeline's "lab" is an oxymoron.  It is a full scale fully equipped professional kitchen with all of the most modern appliances and cookware imaginable along with a large prep area and dining area.  Outside is an extensive herb and vegetable garden to use with your lunch.  Once you get started there is a team effort to make lunch and Adeline asks what everyone's skill set is and then assigns duties accordingly.  Having surgical experience I am a fairly decent slicer and dicer so I got to do that prep.  While doing all of this Adeline is passing around glass after glass of wine so frankly when it was time for lunch I needed a nap.  We had a wonderful freshly made gazpacho for a starter, a crispy skin fish with vegetables, and then dessert.  There were 7 of us in the class and we had to have had at least 7 or 8 bottles of wine, many of which were Premier Cru or better.   And then after lunch more wine while Adeline and her helper clean up.  There are many advantages to using Adeline, first of which her prices per person were 30% less than the last school we attended.  We like the group approach as opposed to standing by yourself essentially just preparing your own meal.  As we left Adeline provided us with all the recipes plus some we had not prepared so we left with plenty of information.  The only thing I would have improved as I for one would have liked to remain in the Saturday Market a little longer to see more things, shop more, and meet more locals.  As we age we had way too much wine and could have spent time in the Market instead of drinking so much wine and I recognize many disagree with that.   Overall it was an outstanding day and I cannot recommend Adeline higher to you.  

Terroirs By Adeline

9 Av. de L'Aigue 21200

Beaune, France

06 17 38 46 72 Use+33 first if calling on US Phone

Traveling and living in a Foreign Country with emphasis on France

Benjamin Franklin said all men are citizens of 2 countries and one of them is France and I agree with him.  But that does not mean the cultural and day-to-day activities in those 2 countries are the same and in order to thrive or survive it is up to you to learn the differences and adjust to them.   As they say, when in Rome do as the Romans do.  

Part of the allure of foreign travel is experiencing the differences in culture and day-to-day living that are different from your own.  You learn there are more ways to skin a cat, some of which might be better than your own.  If you are open to that you are enriched by the experience.  Sadly, if you are like a lot of Americans who believe the American way is always the best way(American exceptionalism) and hence the only way you will return home angry, upset, and exhausted at the "rude" foreigners.  It is critical that you read and study and watch YouTube extensively before you leave to visit the area of your choice.  It is simple, people overseas don't live like you do and the terrain, geography, and day-to-day living are totally different.  The quicker you get used to it the better for you.

Let's start with language.  Sitting for a nice dinner in the Marais at Benoit's next to us sat a Texan who immediately announced, "You know I don't speak your damn language".  Well, guess what, they live in France and there is no obligation to speak your damn language.  But unknown to most Americans they are trying.  Every child in France from kindergarten to high school graduation is required to take conversational English every year for 13 years.  Most, but not all citizens of Paris speak fairly fluent English.  In fact, when I try to speak to them in French they want to speak English as they don't use it that much.  But it is not something you can force and in every encounter, you should at least try the polite minimum.  I advise everyone to learn at a minimum Bonjour, Au Revoir, Merci, and Siv vous plait.  I witness a thousand times Americans saying "thank you" in English instead of Merci.  It is not that hard to change and means the world to the French that you tried that small amount.  Just using those 4 words has opened the world of France to us for 20 years.  If you return and try you will be surprised how much French you might pick up.  I am not fluent, but frequently the French think I am and take off with their rapid speech.

Next is transportation.  In America we are "free" so we buy as many cars guzzling gas that we want and as big as we want and can get in the car and drive to where we damn well please when we damn well please.  Not so overseas.  Most places we go overseas use public transportation including buses and trains extensively and getting around by car most time is more difficult, especially in the cities.  Plus when you take public transportation you have to follow their standards and rules, something Americans are loath to do.  I hear Americans complaining about the up and down stairs with no elevators and the rough uneven cobblestone streets demanding something be done about it.  There are few to no luxury limo services where you are joyfully picked up by your friendly driver who carries your items of luggage and you from point A to B.  They are there in small amounts but must be scheduled in advance and the cost is usually higher than you expect.  Especially in the cities you have to know how to buy tickets, how to read a map, be able to walk up and down multiple stairs, walk on uneven payment, and carry your luggage at the same time.  If you are frail and elderly or disabled it is almost impossible.  It is however one of the areas the French shine in politeness and helpfullness.  Every time we navigated the stairs Frenchmen always asked if they could help and carry our luggage on the stairs and no one ran off with it,  and on the subway, most younger people gave up their seats for us.  The key here is to understand the default position has to be you are responsible for taking care of your self so be prepared.  In the past, we were dependent on Uber but today traffic in Paris at least is at a standstill and it took 2X to 3X longer to get somewhere making the Metro the best option.  But you must have the ability to navigate the Metro.  One more thing, once you enter the Metro keep your ticket in your hand or immediately available.  Around every corner, there might be a policeman waiting to check your ticket and arrest you if you don't have it.  To us using the trains to travel to the countryside and other places, is great, but be sure you know what to do from buying your ticket, downloading it on the phone, the current preferred default, locating the train and track to use at the station, and how to get on and get off the train and know exactly where your seat is as even in coach seats are assigned.  We heard about one group of Americans who did not pay attention and on a 30-car train got on at one end when their seats were at the other end and had to walk the entire length of the train with their luggage bumping into every one to get to their seats at the extreme other ends of the train.

You may not believe in climate change or Global warming or environmental issues but they do in a big way and are your worst nightmare tree huggers.  They recycle everything and expect you to do the same.  They have minimal garbage.  Ever notice the very small waste bins in bathrooms that hold about two balls of tissue?  Anything organic is saved for compost.  Everything is smaller to have a lower impact on the environment.  You will immediately notice the emphasis on the transportation system being carbon neutral.  In our apartment, we had multiple garbage cans for plastic, glass, garbage, and organic material and it was up to us to learn what was what and use it correctly.  I did find one thing they seem to be hypocrites on.  When you go to a pastry shop they gift wrap it before you leave.  You can argue with them all you want but for some crazy reason, they believe they have to gift wrap pastries.  I just want to go outside and eat it, but not until I unwrap the gift wrapping.  You also need to be aware air conditioning is not common in France.  You have to be very careful when booking to clearly state you need air conditioning.  As Global warming increases Paris becomes hotter and hotter.  Our apartment was not air conditioned and I was not clear on that.  But with fans and closing windows and shades during the day it was cool enough to work out.  In the winter they have too much heat as the French are cold-natured.  We had separate heaters and controls in each and every room including bathrooms that had to be turned off by us in June.  Here is a picture of the extent and detail and minutia they go to protect the environment.  Pictured is the cap of a standard plastic water bottle that cannot be removed.  You can unscrew it but it stays on the bottle in an interesting engineering idea.  It flips open and closes and you can screw it back on and is recycled with the bottle.  Obviously prevents millions of plastic caps from littering the land and oceans.

There is a long learning curve as everything is different.  One example, for the first time we rented an apartment which was a long learning process in and of itself.  Our apartment was minimalist which was fine but we had few linens and no linens to change so we had to rely on our washer and dryer.  We went out and purchased more towels and pillows to leave behind.  But our washer and dryer were French with the operations manual in French and the first week we could not use them properly.  Yes, the rental agent spent a small amount of time showing us the place and how things worked but not to the level needed.  Again, the French expect you to take care of yourself.  After a week we looked up online the brand and model number and found a manual in English and were able to do OK.  We also had a French induction kitchen which took some time to figure out.   The electrical service is 240 Volt so make sure you are educated in that or you will blow the circuits.  We have done it.  In terms of housing, you need to recognize that especially in France smaller is better.  Apartments, hotel rooms, and restaurants are much smaller square footage-wise than you realize.  Also, the bathrooms are smaller, usually with a small shower and no tub.  You can get a large suite at the Ritz or a nice large apartment with 3 or 4 bedrooms but be prepared to spend $5000 a night or $25,000 to $40,000 a month.  If you can afford that go for it.  I cannot.  For the first time ever we rented an apartment for a month and it was one of the best decisions we have ever made.  We were tired of coming here and rush, rush, rush to see as much as humanly possible in the shortest time frame.  It simply does not work as there is no rush rush rush in France and you leave exhausted.  With the apartment, we had a home to come back to.  We spent 5 days in Beaune buying wine way too busy but came home to a peaceful apartment in a quiet neighborhood where we could rest a few days before returning to the tourist circuit.  We had twice the space of a hotel and much more private, we had a full kitchen so we did not have to eat out every meal.  We had a washer and dryer to do laundry once we figured out how to use it.  All the advantages outweighed any disadvantages and hopefully, if we return we come right back to the same place.  As I speak the broker Paris Attitude has been great so far and easy to deal with. An interesting aspect of France is despite a bloody revolution to overthrow the aristocracy they still seem to like having rich people around and a lot of things are arranged to cater to the rich.  They just expect if you act rich you will be more than willing to pay outrageous prices.  It is how they define rich.   The good news is there are millions of opportunities to eat and live like a king over here at more moderate prices, you just have to look for them.

There will always be glitches, mix-ups, mistakes, and language barriers, sometimes seeming to occur daily.  It is not uncommon to expect something only to have a French person tell you, No No, No that is not what is supposed to happen.  Then comes the fun of trying to straighten it out in a different language and culture.  Interestingly in Chinese culture, they will never tell you no for fear of losing face, they will say "That is not convenient" leaving you to figure out what it means.  Trust me it means no.  In France never get loud, raise your voice, scream, or be aggressive as they will shut down and leave.  That kind of American approach has never been their style.  Remember initially with Hitler their initial approach was to negotiate over fighting.  They are after all lovers and what great lovers they are.  Remain calm, find somewhere someone who speaks English and they will do their best to help you.  On a train ride, one of our party was very tall with very long legs and was seated across a table from another tall man with very long legs and it was not going to work.  Initially, he walked around the car trying to find an unoccupied seat of which none existed but once calmly explained a nice lady got up and said, in English, I have short legs please take my seat and I will sit across from the tall guy.  Win, win for all.  For me at least that kind of polite and nice accommodation has always happened in France when approached calmly.  Our greatest story is with my wife and two children we were at the Montparnasse train station trying to purchase tickets to Versaille and had not yet learned easily the way to purchase tickets at a machine.  A nice Frenchman, probably under 30 said let me help.  He took out his own cash, purchased 4 tickets at his expense, gave the tickets to us and said have a nice day in Versaille and walked off.  Does that happen in America??

And now to the feast de resistance, food, and wine.  To me, 50% of French culture and economy is food and wine, and is the best in the world and the French know it and are extremely proud of it.  In France, lunch is from 12 noon to 2 or now 3 PM and the entire nation shuts down.  Unless there is a cardiac arrest nothing is changing this.  And at dinner from around 7:30 PM onward everyone sits down for dinner.  Do not plan to try and upend this, You will only be disappointed.  One of the hardest things to get used to over here is sitting down for lunch and dinner and learning you are not going anywhere for at least 2 hours so just cool it and enjoy the experience.  Service is painfully slow.  Getting the check is painfully slow.  Over time, possibly years, you will learn to fully appreciate it.  Breakfast is another story.  They don't eat big breakfasts.  Coffee, a croissant, and maybe orange juice but no bacon and eggs.  They eat eggs for dinner.  Interestingly in Paris proper there are three places called "Breakfast in America" and they are always full of French people.  The food in France is wonderful and you will never have a bad meal anywhere.  If you do, the French will immediately stop going there and shut the place down. But you will quickly tire of it as it is extremely filling and rich.  Eventually, you will learn to go to the grocery store and purchase light fare for dinner every couple of days or go to McDonalds as they do exist in France.

I will finish with this.  All men are citizens of two countries, and one of them is France.  They are our blood brothers.  If not for them with their Naval blockade of Yorktown, which bankrupted their treasury, and us and the Russians taking care of Hitler for them, both of us would be speaking German.  I am tired of hearing how rude they are.  They are not.  They are the most polite, caring, and helpful people I have met.  I pray they do not lose it trying to be like us.  I do not know how they do it but to me, they also are the most productive people on the planet because they eat 6 hours a day leaving only 2 for work, yet they have some of the most massive and beautiful buildings in the world, some of the best art, some of the most efficient agriculture and medical care, and a great transportation system.  I have decided because of their laid-back culture which concentrates on time with family and meals, a joie de life, adequate time off, and health care they are so happy they are able to create miracles.  I have a bias I should mention.  My father was an aircrew member on a B24 and along with combat missions, including D-Day, he flew supplies to the Free French in the south of France and the French Resistance where he was at high risk of being captured and shot as a spy.  If he was willing to die for France then to honor him I will always support them myself as my brothers and sisters.

Three Days of the Bourgogne, Cote de Beaune and Cote de Nuit, Day 1

We are back in Paris completely exhausted and overcome with rhinitis from some of the worst pollen counts in Bourgogne in history.  Without exaggeration, I went to the rental car and there was a measurable 1 inch of pollen on top of the car.  Even without allergies, it was miserable just from the irritation.   But like all good soldiers, we slugged it out and made it through an epic 3 days of tastings, food, wine, and cooking imaginable.  

Arriving on the first day at noon, our friend and agent Stevie Bobes of wineambasseur.com met us at the train, packed our luggage in the car, and then did a walking tour of Dijon stopping at the original store that made Dijon mustard famous,  Moutarde Maille founded 1747.  Satisfied with our selections to ship home we proceeded to 1-star Michelin CIBO presented by Angelo Ferrigno who is the youngest Chef in France to receive a Michelin star.  Chef Ferrigno presented a 4-course wine-paired luncheon that was spectacular, featuring Domaine Bachey Legros 2021 Santenay En Charron Chardonnay.  

Buying Dijon Mustard

Wine for Lunch

A Treat for Lunch

After lunch, it was off to the Vosne Tasting Club where we tasted the following exceptional wines purchasing numbers 2 and 3. 

1.  Domaine Jomain Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Combettes 2015

2.  Domaine BxikotPuligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Folatieres 2015, vineyard is adjacent to the full Montrachet vineyard and one of the best.

3.  Domaine Marc Morey Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts 2016, the best of the tasting by a highly regarded and famous winemaker.

4.  Domaine Michel Caillot Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles 2010 fading

5.  Buisson-Charles Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Caillerets 2015

Then off to pick up the rental car and check in at the hotel in time for dinner at Le Bistro de L'Hotel just off the Parc Canot in the center of town where we had the famous blue foot chicken with a great red Grand Cru Clos de Vougeot from American Expat Alex Gambel.  Then we passed out sleeping until the next marathon day.  Basically stuffed.

Wine on the Queen Mary 2

 Francois Carillion 2017 Chassange Montrachet Premier Cru Les Macherelles

Immediately upon pouring the wine you notice the golden yellow clear color with an immediate explosion of complex aroma.  The taste follows with the same complexity.  I detected honey, honeysuckle, pineapple, hazelnut, and butterscotch,  Despite being a soft feminine wine there were still some earthy flavors, one of which I tasted mushrooms that I do not recall tasting before in a White Burgundy wine.  In addition, the finish was long-lasting and as the wine opened up with warmer temperatures the finish had a smoky characteristic.  The wine was well balanced with nothing out of place.  I described the alcohol as "cool" as it really did not overshadow the other flavors.  There was some oak but it was very subtle and almost not perceptible.  Overall it was a great wine but softer and with fewer mineral flavors like a Puligny.

Lafite Rothschild Bordeaux 1998

In the cellar for years under fairly ideal conditions I decided it was time to drink it so took it on the QM2 for dinner.  The color was classic dark purple but I thought I might have detected an almost imperceptible slight brown edge meaning the wine is ready to drink.  I was surprised by the amount of complexity on the nose and taste, I just don't remember Lafites being this complex.  I could smell and taste it easily, cherry, figs, eucalyptus, cedar, cigar box, coffee, honey, and licorice.  There was also that earthy complex smell and taste of horsey flavors from a racetrack.  Obviously well balanced and not over-oaked.  A lingering finish that I can still taste the morning after.  An outstanding wine that is hedonistic after 20 years of great storage and maturation.

Laurent Perrier NV Le Cuvee Brut Champagne

My 1st impressions were bubbles and bright.  What a nice value-priced champagne. To me the aroma and bouquet were excellent and the taste clearly demonstrated the tastes of pear and lemon. I detected a faint amount of Cedar. I also described the wine as smooth.  The finish was not lingering but was pleasant. Overall I felt it was an excellent champagne at its price point and is a great value and I recommend it.

2013 Paul Pernot Batard Montrchet Grand Cru

I have always loved Paul Pernots wines.  I was fortunate to meet him a few years ago and do a barrel tasting at his home.  His wines to me are excellent and show a great amount of craftsmanship.  His Batard Montrachet is one of my favorites. The vineyard is on the downslope just across the road from the Montrachet vineyard. The 2013 has a golden-rich color indicating a great complexity along with the idea it is ready to drink.. The appearance and the aroma and bouquet were excellent. There was a complex taste profile along with exceptional balance.   For a grand cru, it had a light body. But other than that it was classic. I tasted a lot of flowers including violet.  Complex tastes of lemon, pear, apple, and pineapple were present.   The oak was not overbearing and I did detect a slight amount of cedar and cigar Box.  The finish was not particularly long but it was pleasant and overall the wine is clearly excellent.

2011 Leoville Les Cases Bordeaux

Robert Parker was not a big fan of this vineyard because the wines are not big and jammy.  The exact reason why I like the vineyard.  The wines are softer and not as tannic as many other Bordeaux.  I was able to do barrel tastings for the 2015 vintage a couple of years ago and fell in love with the wines.  Tonight we had the 2011 which again was excellent. It clearly was lighter body and not as jammy as other Bordeauxs but being feminine like that is an attraction for me.  I have always loved the ladies.   I felt that it was complex with flavors of tropical fruits including pineapple.  There was a lot of BlackBerry and black current in it. I found a hint of licorice. There is a fair amount of Cedar and cigar along with some dark chocolate? I also found a slight amount of sweetness to it somewhat unusual. The finish was excellent. It did have a prolonged finish. I appreciate the softness and the pleasant mouth feel that it offers and I highly recommend this vineyard for those who appreciate a softer lady like Bordeaux.

A tasting of all five first-growth Bordeaux on the Queen Mart 2  Memorial Day 2023

Chateau Margaux 1998

My 1st impression was a strong aroma of fruit that filled the room and I could smell with the glass on the table. The aroma and taste were complex with a taste of honey BlackBerry blackcurrant cherry's Cedar Box cigar smoke and some barnyard hay.  The mouthfeel was very velvety. The wine was still young. There was lots of tannin but it was well balanced with the fruit.  I found it to be a high-quality wine maybe a little softer than most Bordeaux. I think what impressed me the most was the complexity along with the smoky fruitiness of the wine.

Chateau Haut Brion 1998

Another velvet smooth wine with plenty of fruit and plenty of complexity in addition to being extremely well-balanced.  It was an outstanding wine with some very complex flavors. I detected licorice, BlackBerry, raspberry, cherry, prune, fig, eucalyptus,  straw or hay, tobacco,  and mushrooms with some dusty earthy dust.  I found it to be an exceptional wine. I'm most likely biased as Haut Brion is my favorite Bordeaux 1st growth Bordeaux over the years. It was a very unique and pleasant experience to have this wine.

Chateau Latour 1998

Of the first three in this tasting, this was the weakest so far.  The nose was somewhat subdued. You could probably detect a smokey cigar and tobacco aroma but it certainly wasn't overwhelming. The wine to me was more simple. The fruit was there but it was subdued.  I did pick up some BlackBerry and I also was able to taste chocolate in this wine. I could actually taste the alcohol more so there wasn't quite the balance of the other two so far. It interestingly had a very long finish though.  It was a good wine but in truth, I have had much better  Bordeaux's and California cabernets.  I have had the 1961 and the 1970 in this wine and to me, by my memory they were better.

Chateau Lafitte Rothchild 2001

Two nights before this tasting we had the 1998 for dinner. Please see my previous article on that.  My 1st impression of the 2001 was the smell was very much full of tobacco and Cedar and Cigar Box. I found this wine to be a little bit more spicy than the others.  I found a hint of pepper in it. It had plenty of fruit with blackberry strawberry and black current and again the predominant flavor for me was tobacco with a spicy twist.

Chateau Mouton Rothscild 2008

I believe it is common wine knowledge in the wine world that the 2008 Bordeaux were almost as good as the 2009 and 2010 s22 and clearly we're a bargain compared to those next two years. I would agree based on this tasting. The 2008 was different from the others primarily because it was a lot more jammy and much more earthy. It started out with a floral Blossom nose and the aroma and taste were packed with spicy flavors of licorice and cloves with lots of dried fruit of strawberry jam, prunes, and figs.  There was classically Cedar oak and cigar Box that was quite pleasant.  My main comment was that it was earthy and jammy at the same time and you had a great long lasting finish. It was a well-crafted wine. I suspect It's a Bordeaux that Robert Parker would prefer. I have also had the 1986 which for years has been a 100 points and I must admit that the 2008 probably could compete with it.  It had all of it,  complexity balance and finesse.

Israel Yarden Chardonnay 2015

Bright and fruity. The nose and taste had apricot, melon, and light acid with no oak.  It was really nice and well made aging well.  Everyone really enjoyed this white wine. On the initial smell, it was bright and fruity.  After you tasted it you could taste apricot and melon. It has a light acid backbone and overall it was very well balanced. It's a little old for a Chardonnay but it's aging well and it appears to have been stored well.  I was shocked to find such a high-quality Israeli wine. I'm used to drinking Yarden from Israel and I can highly recommend this particular house.

Chateau Kafraya from Lebonon Red Cabernet  2015

A smoky cigar nose with berries black currant and velvet mouthfeel with well-balanced acid and alcohol.  There is some spice, chocolate, and eucalyptus like Lafite.  The wine opens with an aroma of cigars and smokiness. And after you taste it you can tell the berry profile with blackberries and black current.  It has a velvet mouthfeel. It's well balanced with good acid and alcohol again nothing is overwhelming. There's also a fair amount of spice in it and I detected chocolate and eucalyptus.  After I had the wine my impression was that it was very similar in style to the 1998 Lafitte Rothschild that we had brought and in fact, I actually felt that it tasted a lot like the Lafitte. It certainly is a lot less expensive than Lafite.

Opus One 2015

It has been a few years since I have had Opus One.  To me, the quality dropped off after 1985 and I always felt the price was too high for what you got.  But I had the opportunity to drink it so I gave it a go.  It had its usual deep color and opened with a pleasant balanced nose of fruit.  The taste was to me oaky but also complex.  I tasted a subdued blackberry taste  There was dried fruit of fig and prunes.  With the oak came cedar and cigar smoke tastes.  To me, the nose was better balanced than the taste I rated it as fair balance.  It had a good finish but the finish was mostly an alcohol taste which is why I felt the taste was not as balanced as it could be.  Overall I again felt it is more expensive than it is worth.  There are just too many low-priced wines that have a higher quality than Opus One. 

Mad Dash to Paris

We had spent a lot of time arranging to get from Southhampton to Paris.  Originally not knowing what was available we used our travel agent for advice and in the end what happened was we had train tickets from the ship to the Southhampton train station to London where we had to get a taxi and change train stations to catch to Eurostar Chunnel train to Paris.  Turned out it was too complicated and we did not get all the information we needed.  For one thing, there were plenty of taxis and Ubers available willing to take you directly to the Eurostar station and the fee was reasonable and close enough to what we had already purchased.  It is what we eventually did because we had no choice as we were warned in advance on the ship there was going to be a train strike which in fact happened forcing us to order an Uber which worked out well and took us straight there, though it took 4 hours instead of the usual 2 as traffic was gridlocked.  Finding our driver was exciting as the crowd getting off the ship was massive and trying to pick someone out of a crowd is not easy but we matched up by phone and it was off to London.  On arrival again the same shoulder-to-shoulder crowds and a line a mile long to get on the train standing in a queue for about 30 minutes.  Then you went through security with all of your luggage, even the large ones, with no one to help even the elderly or disabled.  You had to pick up your own bags onto the conveyer belt while security personnel were screaming at you to hurry up, even the elderly and disabled.  Then it was through British immigration to leave Britain, and French immigration to enter France.  The waiting lounge was ok and did have a small food and drink vendor so you at least could buy some refreshments.  Once they announced the train departure track it was again a mad dash to the exits pushing and shoving to get on the train while carrying your luggage.  Finally, on the train, we could catch our breath.  On arrival in Paris we had ordered a car to take us to the apartment and other than spending 20 minutes searching for the driver in a sea of humanity we arrived safe and sound.  So what did we learn from this experience?  #1 Going to London or Paris order a car, taxi, or Uber to get you where you finally need to be.  There are also multiple private companies online that have availability at fair prices.  We used Blackberry Transfers and were very happy with them.  If you are going to Paris get a car to take you to the Eurostar Station.  Plan a minimum of 4 hours to transfer from Southhampton to London.  #2  Be prepared for lots of shoving, pushing, and lifting of luggage.  A good recommendation is to travel light.  #3  Unless you are young and strong and can manage carrying heavy luggage up and down stairs preorder a car, taxi, or Uber to get from any station to your final destination.  You will be glad you did.  #4  Carry some food and water.  You will be glad you did when you get stranded which is a decent probability of happening.  #5  Do NOT wait to arrange transportation on the ship.  They offer some at high prices but sold out the first day and then it was zero, nada, no help at all.  They actually turn you away from the desk and say go away we cannot help you rudely.  #6  If you insist on taking a train out of Southhampton obey all rules.  After the fiasco of the train strike, I was told I could obtain a refund for the struck train.  Oops, sadly no.  We were denied a refund because we did not go to the train station and throw ourselves at the mercy of the train company.  I was told the train company had a legal obligation to get us to London(but not the specific Chunnel station) and they would have provided a bus, or taxi, or something to get us there.  Of course unsaid here is no time frame was offered so no doubt we would have waited for hours and by the time they figured it out we would have missed the Chunnel train and been rebooked on a later train, possibly the next day.  Trust me, take some kind of car.

On the Queen Mary 2 to Europe

Embarkation

Embarkation was fairly straightforward no major glitches. We did have to wait a little bit in a very subdued lounge but being one of the 1st ones on the ship embarkation went pretty smooth.   Our luggage was delivered to our room in a timely fashion.  Compared to other ships we were pleased with the embarkation.

Our room

We had booked rooms in the Princess Grill and could not have been more pleased. The YouTube videos and photos online do not do these rooms justice. They are well designed, roomy and comfortable and they are actually bigger than they appear in a photo. They were the nicest rooms we've ever been on in a cruise.   The beds were comfortable. The linens were high quality and the bathroom was spacious even with a tub.  You also get to eat in the Princess Grill.  From what I could determine the Queen's Grill rooms are only slightly larger and you eat in the Queens Grill restaurant which uses the same kitchen as the Princess Grill restaurant.   The only difference I could determine was the selections of foods is slightly less in the Princess Grill, but for the most part you can pretty much get what you want within reason.

Princess grill restaurant

Overall the food and service in the Princess Grill restaurant is excellent. The staff was dedicated to meeting your requests and the food quality was high.  One needs to remember, however that this is a British ship and the cuisine can best be described as British. It is old school continental to some degree. Highlights of the food in the Princess. Grill were the beef, especially the Chateaubrion which was absolutely outstanding.  They also prepared lobster and seafood to perfection and the desserts in general are pretty good. Our immediate table servers however don't know how to read a table.  They could be described as hovering.  Almost trying too hard to make you happy the end result was they frequently. Interrupted our conversation and didn't pay attention to what was going on.  Alternative dining like the steakhouse and buffet were not appealing and the few guests we spoke with gave both poor reviews so we had all of our meals in the Princess Grill.

Wine

The wine selections offered on the Queen Mary 2 are excellent and they are reasonably priced. You can actually circumvent the world of wine based on the selections that they have.  One of the evenings we dedicated to trying Middle Eastern wines and we were able to have a Chardonnay from Israel as well as a Cabernet from Lebanon that were some of the best in the world.  We very much enjoyed our wine selections and again, you really couldn't beat what they have.  They have the opportunity to side-by-side taste all five 1st growth Bordeauxs.  We did it and it was a great idea and you almost will never see that happen. They also had on the wine list one of the rarest wines in the world a Hungarian Tokaji Ezenncia which is the 2nd time I've ever seen it in my life and the evening we had it it was the 1st time I have ever drank that wine and it is phenomenal.  Our wine sommelier Sherwin, is a second level Sommelier in the court of Master sommeliers,  he is learning and young but provided great wine service.

Entertainment

I generally don't attend many of the entertainment venues but the few that I did attend were very good. I also found that the dancing in the Queen's room was fun to watch. I'm not a dancer but there were a few highly trained as well as professional dancers on the ship and when you go and watch them it is quite remarkable.  The main entertainment for us was the wine and the food but I could highly recommend the other venues. They were pretty good too.  There were too many daily activities to mention with many general interest lectures so you could be constantly busy. 

Overall Impression 

The Queen Mary 2 cruise is one of our better cruises.  For us it was elegant and restful.  The seas were calm though we were told it was a little unusual in that most cruises had more swells and motion so we got lucky.  We would go again.

Screaming Eagle, Part Deux, The Second Flight

It is difficult to comprehend that a second opportunity arose to drink Screaming Eagle wine after only two years. Previously in February of 2021, I was honored to attend a 7 vintage vertical tasting of this famous wine(please see my blog WTFwithRoss.Blogspot.com Feb 2021). Opportunity knocked again so I put on my blue suede shoes and boarded the plane, and boy did I ever have a first-class ticket! This time to taste a 4-year vertical along with Second Flight and one of the rarest of wines, Screaming Eagle, white Sauvignon Blanc which most do not know exist. Dinner was in the private dining room of the Ritz Carlton Amelia Island hosted by Executive Chef Okan Kizilbayir and his staff who donated the dinner for charity. In 2021 money was raised for the abused woman's shelter in Nassau County. This year we are raising money for a unique cause, purchasing and outfitting a large RV that will have showers, laundry facilities, food, and social workers to travel around Nassau County to homeless encampments to provide services to the homeless. Nassau County is large and spread out so we don’t see the homeless in town or camped on the streets like in San Francisco so the RV will go to where the homeless are. To be sure the evening was spectacular and rare. What follows are my impressions of the wines and then my conclusions. In the past, I have added all the professional reviews of these wines but it tends to make the article too long so this time I list the ratings by the many professionals but I only have included the professional rating review that I felt most closely matched my comments.

2008 Dom Pérignon Brut Rosé Champagne

99 JS 97 WA 97 V 97 WS 95 D

97 points Wine Spectator

An impeccably balanced and graceful sparkling rosé, with a plushly creamy mousse. It's hard to tell where the firm spine of well-honed acidity and the expressive range of pureed raspberry, candied ginger, tangerine, and lemon thyme flavors begin or end. A rich hint of smoky toasted brioche plays on the finish. *Highly Recommended* (AN) (11/2021)

The evening started with this Dom Perignon favorite. For me, it was a well-balanced Champagne, and the aroma and taste I described as “nutty”. I detected a hint of vanilla and raspberry demonstrating the complexity of the wine. I did not find anything overwhelming but it is obviously a well-made wine. Many of the guests at the function expressed a firm liking of the wine. It had a good lingering aftertaste that was not bitter and was pleasant. On a 20-point scale, I graded it a 17.

2019 Screaming Eagle Sauvignon Blanc

There are no professional ratings of this wine. The primary reason being is that it is probably the rarest wine on the planet. Initially intended for private use only there are now a couple of bottles released each year to the mailing list and we were highly fortunate to have it included in our tasting. It is a unique wine and my overall impression was it was more like a Pinot Grigio than a Sauvignon Blanc. Across everything it was on first impression a simple unassuming wine. The bouquet was weak but after a while, I did detect lemon and apple. There was no hint of grapefruit something most Sauvignon Blancs have. It was a low-acid wine making it great for sipping and watching the sunset. Despite being simple there was a hint of finish that lingered. On a 20-point scale, I rated it 14 but do not let that sway you to the dark side as it was in truth a very good wine. Just a wine that walked softly.

2014 Screaming Eagle "Second Flight" Oakville Bordeaux Blend 97 JS 96 WA 95 D 95 JD 94 V

96 points Wine Advocate

Very deep purple-black, the 2014 Second Flight (composed of 57% Merlot and 43% Cabernet Sauvignon with no Cabernet Franc) is a little closed at this youthful stage, offering glimpses of blueberry compote, blackberry pie, and cassis notions with touches of garrigue, bay leaves, black truffles, rose hips and underbrush plus a hint of wood smoke. Medium-bodied, the palate delivers wonderful freshness, with very firm, very finely grained tannins and layers of vibrant black fruits, finishing on a profound minerally note. With this vintage, we can see something of a stylistic departure, offering an expression of Merlot that is bright, refreshing, elegant, and perfumed, and it is perhaps more similar to Screaming Eagle in terms of style than it has ever been. Beautiful! (LPB) (4/2018)

Still, a young puppy with plenty of tannins that slowly evolves in an open bottle and glass. I believe this wine is now at its peak of perfection. There was a very early and slight browning of the edge in color. The bouquet was initially fairly simple and not pronounced but over the course of an hour, it opened up with a complex taste which included for me a subtle licorice, blackberry, and cedar. It had a wonderful velvet mouth feel and a fairly long finish. It was also well balanced with nothing out of place. Interestingly it was served with a Carpaccio of tuna served with foie gras on brioche as well as lobster bisque. I had some left so I tried it with the Dover Sole whose sauce was somewhat sour and the wine to my surprise paired well with that sour taste. Out of 20 points, I scored it 14 but again do not let that throw you as it is a very good exceptional wine and it does take a little time to evolve in the glass.

2016 Screaming Eagle Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

100 JS 100 WA 100 V 98 D 98 JD

100 points Wine Advocate

The 2016 Screaming Eagle is, as usual, mainly Cabernet Sauvignon with a little Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Deep garnet-purple colored, it leaps from the glass with bright, exuberant blackberries, kirsch, and warm blackcurrants scents plus touches of lavender, roses, tilled black loam, wild sage, and dark chocolate with wafts of yeast extract, underbrush, and crushed rocks. Medium to full-bodied, firm, and fine-grained, with amazing freshness, it is layered with crunchy black and red fruits, sparked by floral and mineral notions and finishing with epic length and depth. (LPB) (5/2019)

With multiple 100-point scores, it has to be a great wine and of course it is. It is also still very young with a heavy young and tannic backbone that puckers you up. My first impression of smell and taste was a panoply of flavors. So many complex tastes. For me, I tasted blackberry, raspberry, strawberry, and black currants. There was clearly eucalyptus. I even tasted butter, but maybe that is because I had earlier eaten a roll. There was vanilla as well as fig as well as cigar. I promise I did not preconceive this as I wrote down my 20-point scale numbers and did not add it up until now but I scored it 20 out of 20 so I have to say I can confirm the 100-point numbers.

2015 Screaming Eagle Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 

100 JD 100 JS 100 WA

100 points Wine Advocate

Composed of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 4% Cabernet Franc, the very deep purple-black colored 2015 Screaming Eagle leaps from the glass with notes of freshly crushed black currants, black cherries, and blackberries with suggestions of cigar box, black raspberries, red currants, chocolates, pencil lead and cast-iron pan plus a touch of potpourri. Medium to full-bodied with a rock-solid backbone of ripe, grainy tannins and oodles of freshness, it features the most incredible black and red fruit layers and finishes with incredible vibrancy and depth. (LPB) (4/2018)

Another 100 Point stunner. My very first comment when smelling the wine was the aroma and bouquet jumped out of the glass. I could smell it 3 feet away. There was a heavily smoky aroma and flavor followed by a complex mixture of berries including blackberry, strawberry, raspberry, and currants. For reasons unknown to me I only gave it 13 out of 20 points despite my own what most would consider 100-point comments, and I preferred it to the 2016 proving once again when you are as little biased as you can be you can surprise yourself when tasting. I tasted the 2015 and 2016 side by side so no telling how the 2016 may have influenced me. I should also mention that for the 2015 I described the tannins as “sweet” tannins and I think that may be why I preferred it over the 2016.

2019 Screaming Eagle Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

100 V 98 JD

100 points Decanter

Power and intensity balanced by so much freshness, tension, and energy – quite remarkable. Aromas lead with beautifully delineated black and blue fruits, and pops of red berries, coupled with fresh violets and rose petals, black licorice, and sagebrush. Broad and mouth-filling with a lovely mid-palate density and ultra-fine-grained tannins that are rounded, long, and focused. Perfectly complete with a long finish punctuated by chaparral, dried herbs, and spearmint. Shows the trademark freshness and depth that Screaming Eagle wines offer year after year. (JC) (6/2022)

This 100-point analogy is getting old by now. Another berry-forward wine, in fact, I just came up with a play on words to overall describe Screaming Eagle, “berry well-balanced wine”. The aroma and bouquet were to me very subtle. You could tell there was complexity there, just not overstated. Lots of berry flavors but no smoke that I could detect. It had a bit more acid than the others which will help with food. I noted very good balance and scored it 15 out of 20 but it really is I am sure 100 points to the experts.

2020 Screaming Eagle Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon

99 JS

Fabulous aromas of cabernet sauvignon with blackcurrants, blueberries, bark, fresh mushrooms, and violets, follow through to a full body with an elegance that builds at the finish, leaving you with a freshness and minerality that goes on for minutes. Unique wine in so many ways. A blend of 76% cabernet sauvignon, 18% merlot and 6% cabernet franc. (3/2023)

96 points Vinous

The 2020 Screaming Eagle is one of the great surprises of the year. Energetic and vibrant in the glass, the 2020 offers a bit more energy than most readers are likely used to. All the elements are so well balanced. Dark blue/purplish fruit, lavender, menthol, spice, leather, and a soft touch of all fill out the layers effortlessly. (AG) (2/2023)

I left the two professional ratings here for the 2020 because they both described my overall assessment of the 2020. Of all the Screaming Eagles of the evening, this was the one for me and I scored it 20 out of 20. For one thing, it was a very smooth velvet wine more so than the others and better balanced with the tannins than the 2016. It had an extraordinary aroma, bouquet, and taste with complex berry flavors and eucalyptus and figs. It also had the smoky flavor that many have. So with 2020, you got it all, smoke, berry, and vegetative flavors all wrapped up and I repeat from Vinous “All the elements are so well balanced.”

2019 Neiman “Las Posads” Cabernet Sauvignon

This 33-acre site on Howell Mountain has 15 acres planted by David Abreu and his team and rests at 2000 feet elevation. Tucked into the forest, this estate vineyard brings incredible black fruit and a depth of secondary notes to the bottle. There are no professional reviews of this wine yet but I have included the description of the 2016 by Antonio Galloni as a guide. The 2016 was not made by Drew Neiman but lets you know where and the quality of the grapes.

“The 2016 Las Posadas is a stunning Howell Mountain wine. Inky, rich, and hedonistically beautiful, the 2016 is simply magnificent. Crème de cassis, chocolate, menthol, licorice, lavender, cloves, mint, graphite, and crushed rocks are all amped up in the glass. Unctuous, creamy, and super-expressive, the Posadas captures the opulence of Howell Mountain. It is simply magnificent in every way." Abreu Vineyards is by far one of the best producers coming out of California today. Coming from the viticulture side, David Abreu farms his vineyards meticulously and their wines show it. 100 Points, Antonio Galloni.

As mentioned in my most recent blog Drew is now buying these grapes from David Abreu to make his own “Drew Screaming Eagle” and a certain unnamed celebrity swears Drew’s is as good as Screaming Eagle. So I threw this and his Cab/Franc blend into the mix tonight for comparison. On the initial smell and taste you can say “fruity”. But here I tasted dark chocolate, licorice, and some slightly bitter tannins. The wine was well-balanced and integrated and had plenty of acids that you did not notice. I gave it 17 out of 20 and when discussing with the others at the dinner there was a 100% consensus they all liked the Cab/Franc blend described next. But one needs to remember the group I was with loved Cab Franc.

2019 Neiman Red Wine Blend 70% Las Posadas Cabernet 30% Cab Franc

I have to admit after tasting this wine now twice against the 100 % Cab as well as 4 vintages tonight of Screaming Eagle I liked this one right up there as one of the best. Despite for years of not being totally enamored with Cab Franc I clearly experienced tonight how that grape when blended well can elevate the wine to new heights. The opening aroma and bouquet act was a strong fruit smell that filled the room. Smell and taste were complex with cedar, licorice, dark chocolate, all the berries, prunes, and for the first time tonight hay and barnyard smells and tastes. An earthy hedonistic mixture to savor. I am sure I am as biased as most and I do try not to be but I am human. But with this wine, my bias would be that I did not like it, go figure I left feeling it was either close to or the best of the evening. Congratulations to Drew for an example of perfect blending.

1989 d'Yquem, Sauternes

98 points Vinous

The 1989 Yquem is probably the best and most consistent of the triumvirate at the end of the decade. Two bottles tasted at 30 years of age give me no reason to alter that opinion. Limpid gold in color, slightly lighter than the 1988, it has a vivacious bouquet of gorgeous orange blossom, tinned apricot, quince jelly, and wild heather, all delivered with impressive clarity. The palate is cohesive, pure, and exquisitely balanced, sporting just the right amount of viscosity (less than the 1990). It bursts with tangerine, white peach, saffron, and fresh fig, with flecks of Seville orange marmalade appearing on the finish. This is D'Yquem flirting with its very best, and you never know – it could get even better with age. (NM) (9/2019)

There was no surprise here. I gave the wine 20 out of 20 points. The opening aroma and bouquet was a complex smoky flavor followed by a floral and sweet taste and smell with bushels of pear, apple, honey, and honeysuckle flavors. The finish continues to linger on. I agree with Vinous in that I still feel the 1990 is the greatest and most spiritual D'Yquem ever made but of course, I am biased there. But no question the 1989 is running a close second and was a hedonistic end to an amazing evening.

The Wine Soapbox

This now is my second multiple vintage tasting of Screaming Eagle and I consider myself extremely fortunate to participate in these tastings fully understanding that I am experiencing something almost no one in the wine world will ever experience. I hope to describe it to all so that you can judge for yourself how you might feel about and evaluate these wines. On Feb 25, 2021, I participated in my first Screaming Eagle tasting which I encourage you to read in my blog(WFTwithRoss.Blogspot.com) and it sure seems longer than that. To date, I have now tasted 2005, 2009, 2010, 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014(both first and second), 2015, 2016, 2019, and 2020. Based on this embarrassment of riches I have formed an overall opinion of Screaming Eagle which I described earlier as a “berry well-balanced wine”. Let me explain. Every vintage I tasted was a berry(fruit) bomb. Immediately you smell a complex mixture of Blackberry, blueberry, raspberry, etc. The few Master Sommeliers I have known have told me that in its essence wine is grape or fruit juice and if you cannot taste the fruit juice something is wrong with the wine. There is no danger of missing berry juice in Screaming Eagle. The other thing that stands out year to year is the balance all of these wines have. I have never tasted one that was not well balanced and this speaks to the blending magic at the vineyard. My winemaker friend Drew Neiman always reminds me that as long as a wine is well made and well balanced even if a particular aspect of the wine like acid, tannin, or even oak is over done you will not notice it as in the blending process the winemaker who knows what he or she is doing blends the disparate components of the wine to come out the other side as a seamless well balanced pleasant drinking experience and you won’t be overwhelmed by the excessive oak or acid or tannin. Some, but not all, of Screaming Eagle vintages, also have a certain layer of complexity to them, but in many of the vintages, the berry flavors are predominant sometimes hiding other wonderful flavors. Now onto the elephant in the room the price-value ratio. These wines are one of the most expensive wines on the planet and you have to ask yourself if the difference in style and taste and quality is worth the price differential over an equally compelling California Cabernet. That is a question you have to answer yourself. I think it says a lot that a significant number of these bottles end up at auction in the after-market having never been drunk by the original owner. Last week at dinner a friend gave me a great line that says “Wine is made to be enjoyed not exploited”. Wine is made to be drunk, period. If all you are doing is buying and selling something over and over again to squeeze every ounce of profit out of it then please go buy NFTs. At least that is more honest. I have confirmed that for many of my friends who have the palate Screaming Eagle offers a subtle hedonistic taste difference that only they can appreciate and they have the funds to indulge this vice. So I say go ahead with my blessing and joy that you are in fact enjoying these wines. But please eventually drink them. Some things are more important than money. For the rest of us, there are hundreds of similar quality and tasty wines at a much lower price point. Please see my blog on California Cabernets from October 22, 2021. In the first Screaming Eagle tasting a 2015 Hall Jacks Masterpiece was included and I wrote then and confirm now it is as close to Screaming Eagle as you can get and is 5% of the cost of Screaming Eagle. At this evening's tasting, I felt the Neiman 70% Cab/30% Cab Franc was a good enough close second to substitute for Screaming Eagle but again until you do it yourself you may or may not agree. I also at this point would like to thank sincerely Chef Okan Kizilbayir, Executive Chef of the Ritz Carlton Amelia Island, and his staff for donating their time and effort to this dinner to support the Homeless Coalition of Nassau County. Chef Okan’s dinner tonight was exquisite and highly exemplary of his unique skill set in the culinary world. For those who don’t know him, he came here from La Bernadine and Blue working alongside Eric Riepert. Our dinner this evening started with caviar canapes on ripple potato chips followed by an appetizer tuna carpaccio very similar to the one offered at La Bernadine.

Next was a Lobster Bisque with a ravioli of stuffed, and I mean stuffed lobster perfectly prepared.

The first-course fish dish was Dover Sole with mushrooms and Champagne Emulsion.

The first meat entree course was a lamp chop to die for. One of the most tender lamb I have ever had. It was served with Babaganush or eggplant hummus. The main entree was Australian Wagyu with charred scallions in a red wine bone marrow bordelaise sauce made over 2 days that was some of the best sauces ever.

The Feast resistance was Grand Marnier souffle with Cream Anglaise and a small side of rich chocolate ice cream served with 1989 Chateau d’Yquem.

Total decadence. I salute Chef Okan for his efforts as he obviously pulled out all the stops for a memorable evening.