Boeuf Bourguignon a La Four Guys Cooking, Ross’s Recipe.

Happy Thanksgiving to my loyal readers.  I wish all of you a prosperous and healthy holiday.  As most of you will enjoy a traditional Thanksgiving meal today I will also.  But looking back over the years at memorable meals I came across my old boeuf bourguignon recipe that an old dining group I was a member of prepared one year.  It is basically Julia Childs's recipe but our group called "Four Guys Cooking" truly had fun preparing this dish.  We also had a healthy debate as to whether Bordeaux or Bourgogne Pinot Noir would be best and as an experiment used the Bordeaux a 2003 Chateau Pontet-Canet.  At the time our wine writer was, Robert Weintraub who's judgment was a Bourgogne might have been less "dissonance".   In any event, it is a classic dinner entree that is not difficult to prepare so in the near future give it a try.

This is the classic recipe.  Use a wine which you would drink--not cooking wine and most "experts" recommend Pinot Noir.   And the better the cut of beef, the better the stew. As the beef is combined with braised onions and sauteed mushrooms, all that is needed to complete your main course is a bowl of noodles and lots of good bread for the sauce. 

3 hours | 1-hour prep 

SERVES 6 to 8 

For the Stew 

· 6 slices of bacon( in other recipes known as “lardoons”) cut into smaller pieces 

· 1 tablespoon olive oil

· 2 oz butter 

· 3 lbs lean stewing beef, cut into 2-inch cubes 

· 1 carrot, peeled and sliced 

· 1 onion, peeled and sliced 

· 1 teaspoon salt

· 1/4 teaspoon pepper, freshly ground 

· 2 tablespoons flour

· 1 bottle red wine (a full bodied wine like Bordeaux or Burgundy or Chianti) 

· 1 cup beef broth or beef stock 

· 2 garlic cloves, mashed (you may choose to add more) 

· 1 sprig thyme (or 1/2 teaspoon dried thyme) 

· 1 bay leaf, preferably fresh 

For the braised onions 

· 18-24 white pearl onions, peeled 

· 1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter

· 1 1/2 tablespoons olive oil

· 1/2 cup beef stock 

· salt & fresh ground pepper 

· 1 bay leaf

· 1 sprig thyme

· 2 sprigs parsley

For the Sauteed Mushrooms 

· 1 lb mushroom, quartered 

· 2 tablespoons unsalted butter

· 1 tablespoon olive oil

Step 1 

In a large cooking pot heat the butter and oil and brown the bacon(you want to cut up the bacon slices into smaller pieces) and the meat pieces. Do not “sear” the meat as this prevents the wine from being absorbed by the meat. Just lightly brown the meat by frequently stirring and rotating the meat in the pot with the bacon pieces in the pot at the same time. It will brown after 5-10 minutes. Then add a peeled and sliced carrot, a peeled and sliced onion and allow to cook until the carrots and onions are soft. After the meat is brown add and distribute the flour and pour in all of the wine and beef broth/stock. Then add salt, pepper, crushed garlic cloves, a sprig of thyme and a bay leaf. Bring to a boil and then reduce temperature to medium to low and allow to simmer for 3 hours. The meat is done when you can prick it with a fork and it is tender and falls apart. 

Step 2 Pearl Onions 

A few minutes before serving prepare the pearl onions and mushrooms. Peel the small pearl onions and put in a pan with hot butter to be browned slightly. ½ cup of Beef broth is then added and the onions are braised with a bay leaf, a sprig of thyme, and 2 sprigs of parsley until completely cooked and well caramelized. Little moisture should remain, but if it does, it should be drained off. 

Step 3 Mushrooms 

The mushrooms should be sautéed just minutes before the beef is done and are sautéed in the butter and olive oil.  Our La Chaine group has a member severely allergic to mushrooms so for those with food allergies simply leave out this ingredient.

Step 4 Serving 

The pearl onions and mushrooms are then added to the beef stew and the dish can be served in the same pot in which it was cooked or a casserole dish. For a thicker gravy, remove the beef and reduce the braising liquid before adding the onions and mushrooms but this is usually not needed. Serve over noodles for a classic presentation and serve the same wine used in cooking.

Two Places to visit in northeast Atlanta, Georgia

I am pleased to recommend to my readers two places to visit in the northeast Atlanta/Buckhead/Doraville area on your next trip to Atlanta. My wife and I were at both places this past week and were highly impressed with what we experienced. We highly recommend you visit these places if you can. 

The first place is Little Alley Steakhouse The Buckhead outpost located in One Alliance Center on Lenox Road; the same complex as Mission and Market which opened in March at Three Alliance Center. Their orginial resturarnt is in Roswell. The 9000-square-foot Little Alley Steak-Buckhead is triple the size of the original location on Canton Street in Roswell. The Buckhead steakhouse seats 250 people and includes a bar, a main dining room, a smaller dining room, a patio with an outdoor bar, and a lounge. A private dining room is located upstairs. Little Alley-Buckhead’s menu is similar to its original Roswell outpost with wet and dry-aged steaks, prime cuts, charcuterie, and a kobe beef burger among the meat choices. Oysters and chilled seafood are available for pre-steak bites, along with appetizers like duck confit spring rolls and beef tartare. Over 400 whiskeys, bourbons, and scotches are listed on the beverage menu. The wine list is extensive also and prices are reasonable.  We had a Newton unoaked Chardonnay which was outstanding.  Steak-friendly cocktails include a small selection of old fashioned's and Manhattans as well as drinks like the vodka-based lemon drop, a Moscow mule riff, and sangria. We had dinner there and we can attest that the food and service was outstanding. The bar is very impressive with more bourbon that you will ever see. Food was prepared perfectly and service was prompt and unassuming. To us, the price was reasonable for what you got.  It was a good value.  For years when visiting Atlanta we seem to always end up at Bistro Nico, a French bistro which we also still highly recommend which is about one block from Little Alley, but we were in the mood for something different so we tried Little Alley and we are glad we did. If you are in the Lenox Square area check them out.

https://littlealleysteak.com/

On a little different idea check out the Buford Highway Farmers Market at the intersection of I-295 loop north and Buford Highway Atlanta(Doraville area). Truthfully it is more of a supermarket than a farmers market per se but what makes it unique is from what we could tell there is a food section with foods and beverages and breads and pastries from every country in the world. The place is imense, close to 2 or 3 times the size of a Costco or Sam's. They advertise they are a primarily produce store and a good portion of the store is devoted to produce from around the world but each area of the world is in it's own space and within that space are multiple countries. For example there is an Asian section with Japan, China, Thialand, etc with their own rows and shelves. I was most impressed with the fact there was an Eastern Europe section that went into the Russian section where of course there was Russian Caviar. They also have the largest fish market we have ever seen and there must have been at least 100 varieties of fish again shipped in frozen from a significant number of countries. Obviously if you go here whatever you buy you would take home and prepare so if you are in a hotel it is impractical to buy any fresh produce or fish but when we travel to France or Spain as an example we usually buy canned goods, spices, local mustards for gifts. You can do that at this market without ever leaving the country. We found the same French mustards we purchase in France and found fresh saffron that we usually buy in Spain. So if this kind of facility appeals to you spend and hour or two walking the aisles to see what the rest of the world eats and drinks.

Domaine Rapet Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru

Clark and I like to say our souls are in Bourgogne France and more specifically at the Montrachet vineyard. Who doesn't love Montrachet? But over the years the price of Montrachet has become very prohibited. The truth is Montrachet is not the only Grand Cru White Burgundy available as Corton-Charlemagne is just a short drive north. We have found we love Corton-Charlemagne as much as Montrachet and the price difference is huge. We usually purchase Corton-Charlemagne under $150 a bottle compared to Montrachets that are now running $1000 to $6000 a bottle. It is not even close. We have visited Domaine Rapet and met both the patriarch and his son, both of whom are members of Tastevin and they make outstanding wines from the hill of Corton and we highly recommend them. 

With the 2017 Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru, Rapet has produced his finest white since 2014. The wine opens in the glass with a classy nose of ripe lemons, green apple, white flowers and crushed chalk, framed by subtle hints of oatmeal and beeswax. On the palate, it's full-bodied, deep and layered, with excellent concentration and broad shoulders, but also promising structural tension and reserve. The long, chalky finish is penetrating and intense. This is well worth seeking out.  You can purchase it here for $125.00 a bottle and for a Grand Cru White Burgundy you simply cannot beat that price at that quality.  https://www.finewinesinternational.com/wines/2017-domaine-rapet-pere-et-fils-corton-charlemagne-grand-cru-cote-de-beaune-france-750ml

"The Rapet family can trace its roots in Pernand back to 1795, and they are both one of the largest landholders in Corton-Charlemagne, as well as one of its finest exponents, so it is a mystery why these wines aren't better known and better distributed. There's a long track record here, and I can extol the merits of the domaine's older wines from personal experience: 1979 is among the best mature examples of Corton-Charlemagne I've tasted. Under Vincent Rapet's attentive eye, the vinification is pretty classic, with the whites, the whole cluster pressed and fermented in barrels (some 20% of which are new), as well as a few concrete eggs for some cuvées that Rapet believes gives a more tensile, fresher profile to the wine. The reds, which have improved in recent years, see a brief cold soak followed by some 15 days of maceration, maturing in around 30% new wood from carefully chosen sources including Chassin and Taransaud. In addition to the flagship white grand cru, there are plenty of wines for insiders here, above all the old vine Pernand Sous Frétille. In summation, this is a fine source that deserves more attention, especially in view of its very reasonable prices." William Kelley Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 95 Points

Buying Wine at Discount

I have previously written recommendations on places to purchase wine at a discount but I have just found a new one that might be the best. I was going to purchase a very special Rioja that was advertised by one of my suppliers and the regular price was $39.99 per bottle on sale at a discount for $34.99. Before purchasing I always double-check the prices at wine-searcher.com as I have found them to be an excellent source of determining wine prices the world over as well as the USA. I really did not find any prices better at that point in time but on a lark just did a general Google search to see what I might find. What I found is 1000corks.com which lists pretty much any alcoholic beverage and it's availability anywhere in the USA and lists all the different retailers and their prices. Much to my surprise, I found the same identical wine at $27.97 per bottle with a $20 off shipping coupon that I did not find on wine-searcher.com. Just the price per bottle discount worked out to 30% off the regular price of $39.99 and an additional 20% off of the 34.99 prices. The bottom line is I saved $7.02 per bottle off of the previous "on-sale" bottle as well as $20 less for shipping. For a case of 12 that I purchased that is a total savings off of the "on-sale" price of $104.24 savings on a case. It pays to shop around.  With the internet, it does not take long to price shop and as shown above, the savings can be substantial. I want to reassure everyone buying wine on the internet and shipping to your home in most areas is legal and hassle-free and has been upheld as legal by the 6th Court of Appeals as well as a recent ruling by the Supreme Court involving Total Wine Company.  So when purchasing wine I recommend you always double-check and look the wine up on both: 

Wine-Searcher.com and 

1000corks.com

Recent Outstanding Value Italian Wines

During a recent Italian dinner, the following Italian wines were served.  Everyone raved about how good they all were and I would consider them "value" wines.  Most are still available.  I recommend wine-searcher.com as a starting place to find them.

Great Value Italian Wines

Masottina Masottina Prosecco DOC Treviso NV $10.70/bt D96 WE91

Winemaker Notes

The “Masottina” wine-growing and wine-producing company was established in 1946 on the slopes of the Conegliano hills. An art and wine town, called the “pearl of Veneto” because of its harmonious urban structure, Conegliano, only km 50 from Venice, was already famous in the Middle Ages for its prestigious wines that were sent all over Europe. From the vineyards wreathing its sweet hills, the town appears in all its splendor, with the richness of its extraordinary medieval and Renaissance architecture. A capital of wine for more than 2,000 years, it boasts Italy’s most ancient oenological school; yet, above all, it is a place where happy encounters take place, what with a millennium-old civilization and extremely sweet landscapes, -the center of one of Italy’s most celebrated oenological districts, whose wines are renowned and demanded the world over. On the southern slopes of Conegliano bright hills, where, on the land of an ancient monastery, one of Masottina’s new locations is being set up, vines have been cultivated for more than 2,000 years and - nowadays - with modern criteria, thus producing grapes that have already been pre-selected in the countryside to obtain high- and renowned-quality wines. This is where the Prosecco is born - a fresh white, fruity, extremely pleasant wine-, which is appreciated throughout the world. This Prosecco Treviso DOC has a pale straw yellow color with faint jade undertones. The nose is elegant, fresh and sincere. Citrus fruits, lemon, grapefruit, mandarin, and cedar. Clear hints of apple, fresh and sweet. Finish his story with slight notes of mint and fresh almond. In the mouth, it is fresh, lively, enveloping, alive with nuances of citrus that shine with almost fragrant freshness. Long, persistent in its harmony, mottled with a tenuous sapidity. Prosecco Treviso DOC Brut produced by Masottina is made from 100% Glera. Glera is small white grape that is mainly cultivated for producing Prosecco (minimum 85% Glera grapes in its wine composition). From the Karst hills near Trieste, Prosecco production spreads over the province of Treviso, especially in the areas of Conegliano and Asolo. The harvest is carried out in September and, after the first fermentation at a controlled temperature by selected yeasts, the second fermentation takes place in an autoclave, at a low temperature. The wine completes its aging in the bottle for about 1 month.

Decanter: 96 Points

"Possesses a very intense, deep nose with notes of pear, peach, elderflower and almond. This flows onto a mineral-drenched palate with touches of eucalyptus. Great length and depth of flavor."

Wine Enthusiast 91

"Delicate scents of honeysuckle and white stone fruit mingle together on this. It's fresh and polished, with green-apple, white-peach and nectarine flavors balanced by crisp acidity and a silky pelage."

2018 Antinori Tenuta Guado al Tasso Vermentino, Bolgheri $23.53/bt D91(2016) WS89(2015)

Winemaker Notes

The Vermentino from Guado al Tasso has a straw yellow color with greenish highlights. On the nose, it presents an ample range of fragrant and intense aromas of yellow fruit, white flowers, and notes of citrus that complete its aromatic profile. On the palate, it is pleasing, savory with an excellent balance between freshness and minerality. A lengthy finish with hints of citrus fruit.

Serre dei Roveri Barolo DOCG 2013 $24.99/bt IWR90

Wine Maker Notes:

The Barolo Serre Dei Roveri DOCG is a soft, relatively small-boned and "ready to drink" wine from three different communities in the Barolo area: The grapes from La Morra - on blue-gray limestone-marl-soil growing - are responsible for the soft, fruity character. The powerful, spicy component comes from the wine grapes from Monforte d'Alba and Castiglione Faletto. It has a very fragrant complexity: Ripe red and black fruits, hints of roses and violets, spicy-peppery nuances and a hint of licorice. The tannins are velvety soft and warm.

IWR 90

This Barolo exudes inviting aromatics of red fruits, alongside damp earth which is underlined by blood orange purèe, and cigar box which all take shape in the glass. Medium-bodied, layered and well-structured around fine tannins which linger grip hold on the finish. While this is already appealing, it appears it will also age nicely with some short-term cellaring. (Best 2018-2028) - December 2017 (OB) International Wine Report

Castelgreve Chianti Classico Riserva 2013 D95 WS92 $13.89/bt

Winemaker Notes

Very intense ruby red color, It opens with a complex and elegant bouquet, with a nuance of mature fruits and vanilla. Soft on the palate, well balanced with a persistent aftertaste. U.P.

WS92

The wine produced mainly from Sangiovese grapes, with a very intense ruby ​​red color. It presents a complex, elegant bouquet with notes of ripe fruit and tertiary aromas such as vanilla. On the palate, it is a soft and balanced wine, with a persistent finish.

Decanter 95

"Very charming and attractive nose with herbal hints and menthol tones. Intense and complex on the palate, with generous layers of red forest fruits, spice, and leather. A very seductive style, with plenty of charm and complexity." - Andrea Briccarello Bodegas

2018 Paolo Saracco Moscato d'Asti, Piedmont, Italy.  WE 92 Vin93 WA92 $18.03

Winemaker Notes

Saracco Moscato is as sweet and seductive as the hills where it is born and grows; as vibrant and sharp as the mountains that surround and protect the land on the horizon; refreshing and effervescent, like the wind rushing down from the Alps towards their hills. Served cold with its delicate and persistent bubbles, it is like a refreshing shower in summer.

Vinous 94

Luminous pale straw-green with golden tinges. Captivating aromas of orange blossom, lemon verbena, vanilla, sage, and ripe grapefruit nectar. Dense, juicy and suave, presenting a multilayered, complex set of flavors similar to the aromas. The finish is very long, resonating with a floral top note and delightful vibrancy. Outstanding, concentrated, complex and very pure Moscato d'Asti.

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate 91

The pretty 2018 Moscato d'Asti pours to a creamy and foamy appearance and pale gold luminosity. The wine is beautifully fragrant with white flower, star jasmine, and honey. As the wine warms in the glass, you might notice some dried sage or oregano leaf. The effect is very Mediterranean and bright. That subtle sweetness hits the spot (and is balanced against the wine's natural freshness). The alcohol content of the wine is a mere 5.5%.

Les Pres d'Eugenie Maison Guerard

My wife and I have been blessed with countless opportunities to travel the world and we have been as far east as Turkey and as far west as Xian, China. It is no secret that we prefer France. But in all our years of travel only until September have we visited heaven. Les Pres d'Euigenie and its 3 star Michelin restaurant Restaurant Michel Guerand is a haven from the world. A small country palace, on the borders of the Landes and Béarn regions, a romantic haven, a feast for the senses, for pampering your body and letting your mind wander. The property is a family home and is an invitation to happiness. Fairytale gardens, aristocratic abode, and symphonic cuisine. In the small village of Eugenie des Pains, once placed under the patronage of Empress Eugénie, herb gardens, majestic trees, and ancient roses line the pathway to a stunning spa, La Ferme Thermale®. In the kitchen, Michel Guérard, who "cooks the way a bird sings", creates celestial marvels. Everywhere else, Christine, his wife casts her poetic touch. The grounds, the rooms, the furniture, the linens, all come together in a symphony of rest, reflection, and frankly downright hedonism of food, wine, and pleasure. We have never been pampered and cared for as we were here. 

Michel Guérard was born in 1933 in Vétheuil into a family of butcher-breeders. He did his professional apprenticeship at the pâtissier-traiteur Kléber Alix in Mantes from 1950. After his military service in the Navy in 1957, he was hired at Crillon as a pastry chef and chef saucier. After winning the contest of best worker in France in pastry, he became pastry chef of the Lido then second Jean Delaveyne in Camellia (2 stars in the Michelin Guide ) in Bougival.  In 1965, he moved to a bistro of Asnières-Sur-Seine (formerly a North African bistro bought by candle 2 ) which soon became the Pot-au-Feu, considered a Mecca of Parisian and international gastronomy. He became one of the founders of the " nouvelle cuisine " by inventing his "crazy salad" (made from foie gras that replaces vinaigrette). The red Michelin guide gives him his first star in 1967. In 1971, he won the second macaroon in the Michelin guide, and in 2017 he celebrated 40 years of its 3 stars in the Michelin Guide.   One of our dinners was only 500 calories and was a feast for both the eyes and senses. I am not a big vegetable fan but I must admit after dinner I felt rejuvenated and calm and satisfied. I would never had thought that could happen with a 500 calorie mostly vegetable dinner. Every meal here from breakfast(which they insist must be taken in the room and borders on opulence overdone with close to 30 items) to dinner is a memorable lifetime experience. I have always written that I question the costs of 3 star Michelin restaurants but as I said years ago regarding Le Grande Vefour in Paris no this is not an inexpensive experience. But it is one that I will never forget and long for what time I have left. Was it worth it? No question. Was it once in a lifetime experience? I hope not. In the back of my mind, I am longing to return. Please take the time to review their website and pictures and review their menu items. I am willing to bet someplace, somehow, you will find the means to go there once. 

https://www.relaischateaux.com/us/france/restaurant/les-pres-d-eugenie-michel-guerard-landes-eugenie-les-bains

The Caves of Rouffignac and Lascaux in Southwest France

News flash, on your travel bucket list, should be the prehistoric cave paintings, drawings, and engravings in the southwest of France. Truth be told, there are many caves all over, some bigger than others. There is a small one outside of Bourg, France north of St. Emilion. But in reality, the two most famous are Rouffignac and Lascaux, which I had the good fortune to just visit and I highly recommend them as a go-to place in your future travels. Just imagine being on an everyday stroll or walk in the woods and noticed this gaping hole in the ground. Curiosity consumes you and after walking a few feet inside you suddenly see an intricate drawing of animals all over the place. You quickly realize that these works of art have been here for a long time and you are not the first human to walk into that cave. It is almost like landing on the moon. Chills run up and down your spine. 

The cave Rouffignac is an ornate cave located in the heart of Perigord, in the town of Rouffignac-Saint-Cernin-de-Reilhac, between Bergerac and Sarlat, a small medieval city I also recommend visiting, in the department of Dordogne ( France ). The site is home to more than 250 engravings as well as line drawings dating from the Upper Paleolithic (Magdalenian, more than 13,000 years). The cave has been known for centuries and was described in 1575 by François de Belleforest, so it had been discovered over 400 years before.  More than 8 kilometers long, this cave is one of the largest ornate caves in Europe. The visit, in an electric railway, makes traveling 4 kilometers round-trip in the main galleries. Scientists have determined that by controlling the number of visitors on a given day there is no risk of deterioration of the artwork. This is also because manganese oxide was used in drawing the drawings, which come from Romaneche, 450 Km away. Manganese oxide is basically black rock and because it is not a vegetable paint of sorts it's not going to deteriorate to any degree. In order to provide the open railway cars to see the artwork, the cave had to be dug out because 13,000 years ago the cave was only about 3 or 4 feet high and the artists had to lay on their back to draw the pictures. Research has identified innumerable traces of claws and burrows left by cave bears before human intervention. About 13,000 years ago ( Magdalenian ), these galleries were decorated with 158 mammoths associated with woolly rhinos, bison, horses, and ibex. The figures are deeply engraved or painted black. Four human figurations and tectiform signs are also present. Scientists believe the artwork was done by no more than 5 individuals over a period of weeks but not longer than a year. So they lay dormant with no human visitors for thousands of years. 

The cave of Lascaux, located in the town of Montignac in Dordogne, in the Vézère Valley, France, is one of the most important caves decorated with Paleolithic by the number and aesthetic quality of his works. It is sometimes nicknamed "the Sistine chapel of the parietal art " or "Sistine Chapel of the Perigordian " according to an expression attributed to Henri Breuil 

According to the most frequently told version, on September 8,1940, Marcel Ravidat discovered the entrance of the cavity during a walk on the commune of Montignac in the Dordogne with his comrades Jean Clauzel, Maurice Queyroi, and Louis Périer. During this walk, his dog Robòt pursues a rabbit that takes refuge in a hole located where a tree had been uprooted: an opening about 20 cm in diameter opens at the bottom of this hole, impossible to explore without a work of disobstruction. By throwing stones to try to bring out the rabbit, Marcel Ravidat finds that the hole communicates with a large cavity. As it is located 500 meters from the castle of Lascaux, he thinks it is the exit of an underground.When he walked in he was overwhelmed with the art that he saw and told others, within days most of the town had visited. 

Unfortunately, as early as 1955, the first signs of deterioration are noted. They are due to an excess of carbon dioxide induced by the visitors' breathing, which causes an acidification of the expired water vapor corroding the walls. In 1957 the government set up a first system intended to regenerate the ambient air and to stabilize the temperature and hygrometry. The visits, however, continue to follow one another at the fast pace of more than 1,000 tourists a day, releasing about 2,500 liters of carbon dioxide and 50 kg of water vapor in a cavity whose volume is relatively low, of the order of 1,500. In 1960, the "green disease" appeared: carbon dioxide emissions from visits, a temperature too high and artificial lighting allow the dissemination of algae colonies on the walls. The enrichment of the atmosphere with carbon dioxide generates the "white disease", a veil of calcite deposited on the walls and on certain works. In 1963, microorganisms continued to proliferate despite the introduction of ozone filters. On April 17, 1963, André Malraux, then Minister for Cultural Affairs, decided to ban Lascaux access to the general public. A few years ago, an exact replica of the caves was open through the use of lasers and the reproduction is an exact copy of the original. Guided tours are conducted daily and you have to make an appointment. What I found so interesting is the abdominal areas of the animals are painted or etched around holes in the wall. It is obvious the intent was to provide as close to a three-dimensional depiction as possible. You can see the bellies of the animals protruding on the opposite side and it is obvious the artists were highly talented and trying to reproduce the animals as close as possible. At Lascaux, many of the animals are painted in color and the paint is what would deteriorate due to atmospheric changes. 

Both caves are impressive and to me, it is important to visit both as you get to see differences in technique and style which in or itself is significant given the time period the works were done. It still is amazing to think that a few artistic individuals 20,000 to 30,000 years ago did these major works of art never to be seen again for tens of thousands of years.