What makes a good restaurant, a great restaurant, a Michelin Star restaurant?

I have spent a significant portion of my life eating at restaurants and over the decades initially becoming a hobby for me, eventually became a passion. Most of my trips and travels now are planned primarily with where do we eat when we get there. I like a variety of places from one extreme to another. From the best and most expensive fine dining place to the local food truck. Having just returned from a culinary Olympic trip to New York City, arguably one of the top restaurant destinations in the world I could not but think what exactly am I searching for and what exactly defines a good, a great, and an exceptional restaurant?

I have a good friend who turns out is a Michelin star restaurant expert. He and his family have eaten at most of the top Michelin restaurants in the world including a significantly high number of 3 star places. I have only eaten in a few 2 and 1 star Michelin places where two of them had previously been 3 star but then downgraded to a 2 star. So I asked why. In discussing this with my friend I was surprised to learn the many variables that go into grading a Michelin place and the vast majority at least to me have little to nothing to do with food that I call substance. There is a lot more going on in the grading scheme that I would call show. For example one criteria to be a 2 or 3 star Michelin restaurant involves changing table cloths, changing silverware, and having flowers on the table.

Remember the Clinton Presidential Campaign, “It’s the economy stupid!”. Well to me when it comes to restaurants “It’s the quality and presentation of the food, stupid!:”. I want the silverware clean of course, but who cares how often they change the flowers unless they are dying. Last year we had an interesting dinner at the pool restaurant at Pelican Hill at Newport Beach, California. On their menu they offer a section that says “Perfectly prepared meal”. The restaurant explains the food is not fancy, is not a work of art but they offer 1 chicken, beef, or fish dish and they guarantee it will be most perfectly prepared dish of that kind you will ever have in your life. Nothing pretentious just perfectly prepared dinner. Should that not be more important than flowers on the table?

I have had more than one dinner at a famous fine dining place where the chicken dish is served either underdone or raw, or where the sauce breaks down and becomes running or lumpy? This tells me the kitchen staff and chef are not paying attention to detail and my opinion is they assume because the decor is massive and beautiful and the servers are jumping to every whim that you won’t notice maybe the food isn’t that good. Well, I notice.

To me good food is well prepared, tasty, and usually comfort food. Think Cracker Barrell. Great food is a step above and fancier with white table cloths and the works. Anything above that is to me just fluff. I rarely look for or eat at Michelin stars anymore. For most they are overpriced and do not guarantee a perfectly prepared meal. As with anything there are exceptions, Les Climates a 1 star place in Paris right behind the Museum Orsay that I highly recommend. I am sure there are others. To me what the top places offer is food you simply cannot have except in a few places. Our recent most expensive meal at Le Pavilion in NYC served us absolutely perfect Epoisse cheese sauce that I have found in maybe half a dozen places in the world including Burgundy France where the cheese actually comes from. They also had 1 day old white truffles almost unheard of. Trust me try and buy white truffles that are less than weeks old.

I say again it is the food that is what is important and not the show and fluff, though when paired with exceptional food preparation makes for an unforgettable dining experience.

The Holidays in the Big(Grand) Apple, New York City

We just returned from a week in New York City celebrating the Holidays and it was our first trip back to NYC in decades. It turned out to be one of the best trips we have ever taken and from day one everything was wonderful. We could not have asked for anything more. What follows are some of my observations regarding NYC and restaurant recommendations.

1. The city is saturated with young people. 30 years ago when we came and were young we thought the city was saturated with old people and it probably was then, but today no matter where we went we were, in fact, the oldest people there and frankly, I did not see a lot of older people. This tells me that the young people are taking over and I'm happy to say I was fine with it.   Everywhere we went everybody was courteous, kind, and helpful. On the Subway people automatically got up to let us sit down so they had high respect for their elders. Unlike Socrates who 2000 years ago said that young people were ruining the country and had no respect for their elders, I would say I saw the exact opposite. It made me very hopeful optimistic and proud.  They were also obviously employed and making and spending money despite the current inflation.

2. Speaking of the Subway truly there is not a better way to get around in New York City. Don't get me wrong we love Uber and we took Uber on many occasions but Uber is now twice the price it was a year ago and more importantly, the traffic in New York City is pretty bad and it takes some time, 2 to 3 times the time to take an Uber anywhere. Of course there are times when you want to take an Uber, late at night, you're tired of walking and you can't walk another foot, so there is a place for Uber but again we were able to get anywhere in town pretty easily using the Subway. They now have a system where you just lay your credit card at the gate and it automatically takes it and In a week after 12 uses the rest of your trips are free until the next Monday. In most cases, there are elevators on the platforms and in many cases when we had to change trains we got off the train and stayed in place and got on the next train to get to where we wanted to go. We did not have to walk up more than 1 or 2 flights of stairs but again when we could we used the elevators.   We felt very safe on the Subway as everybody was courteous and helpful and It did not hurt that there was friendly New York City policeman at most every stop.  Overall we spent $34 a day on Uber and $10 a day average on subways.  With routine parking $80 to $100 a day Uber is a bargain.

3. We did not see much homelessness. There were a few but it was significantly less than in San Francisco. Of course if you're gonna be homeless why would you want to go North where it's cold when you can go South where it's warm. It's also possible we did not go to any of the areas where homelessness was a problem. Having said that there were plenty of newspaper articles where New York City is one of the more progressive places trying to solve their homeless problem and building affordable housing as much as they can. Though it was interesting one article we read said they were building a affordable housing project where each condo is gonna cost $800,000 a piece, not what I would call real affordable housing.

4. We stayed at the Mint house at 70 Pine Street one or two blocks from the New York stock exchange. It's hands down one of the best places we have ever stayed. We were completely comfortable and left totally relaxed and refreshed. The décor is very modern, the room had plenty of electronic hook ups and I really should not say room because it was a 700 or 800 ft² one bedroom apartment that could easily sleep 2 couples privately. You could easily have all of your meals as it had a complete full size kitchen. Everything was super convenient and within 1 or 2 blocks there were 3 Subway stations, grocery stores, pharmacies, high-end restaurants, pubs, and delis. You really could stay your entire trip in that one place and do fine. I could easily envision returning and staying a month here to really explore the city better.

5. Museums and comments on Broadway shows.  Another main reason folks go to NYC is to see a Broadway show and visit museums and art galleries.  We took advantage of the museums and art galleries and had a great time.  I cannot say the same for Broadway shows, however.  For any main Broadway show the price for most tickets in the orchestra area and not in the nose bleed section were around $500 a person, even for something as long standing as "The Lion King".   I was frankly shocked and cannot see paying that for a 2-hour show I can eventually watch on TV in my PJs.  I have never been a fan of live theater so it made no difference to me but I will go once in while to take Clark as she does like the shows.  But we just could not justify those prices for a basic ticket.  If you want to stand in line for hours to get discount tickets by all means do but at our age, today standing in line is not an option.  We were pleased and surprised that the galleries and museums either comped us or charged a significantly lower admission price with me being a veteran.  I always show my veteran card as you never know but at least in NYC over 90% of museums fully comped me and Clark being a veteran.

6. Plenty of people like ourselves go to New York with the primary goal of eating well. There is no question some of the best food in the world is served in NYC. One area of disappointment is the pricing for fine dining. There were more than one article in The Times that we read going over how ridiculous dinner for two had become price wise. One article mentioned 2 restaurants La Pavillion and Saga. We had dinner at La Pavillion and Saga was at the Mint house. At both of those places dinner for two with wine is around $1000. Saga interestingly requires payment in advance with no refund for their basic prefix dinner which works out to around $700 a couple with nothing else added. Our dinner at Le Pavilion was in fact $1000. It was wonderful and overall we felt it was worth the price but again you simply can't afford that on a regular basis unless you're a billionaire. Daniel Boulard's other place we went to Le Gratin is clearly a better and more economical choice. Outside of fine dining the other reason to go to New York City is for great ethnic food and we were able to have truly authentic Chinese, Greek, and Italian and you really shouldn't miss these opportunities in New York City. We enjoyed going to Wu's Wonton King. When you walk up the duck and pigs are hanging in the window which immediately tells you it's authentic. We had Greek food at Milo's at Hudson Yard that was out of this world and we went to Morini for Sunday brunch which is authentic Italian as you can get in Little Italy. Of course in every city block, there's an excellent deli where you can get great sandwiches. Most of them have a hot bar and pastries, you really can't go hungry in New York. At 70 Pine there is a hole in the wall deli called Taz which you can easily miss it doesn't look like much but when you go in at the back is in fact a great deli and hot bar with extremely friendly owner and servers that will take great care of you and you will get good food.

Classic Lyon French Cuisine at a reasonable price, Le Gratin

Le Gratin by Daniel Boulard is a classic restaurant and makes you feel that you are in the heart of Paris or Lyon. The décor reminded me of Mollard up by the opera in Paris. We enjoyed a wonderful dining experience. The food is classic French and very importantly it is very reasonably priced compared to other fine dining restaurants in New York City. We had a delightful dinner with the usual classics and I had Pike Quinells which were quite good and something you almost never see. It is not a Bouchon restaurant as many think and why Daniel uses that name is beyond me but it is clearly a classic Lyon French restaurant. I highly recommend it, the only deficit if there is one is the wine list is somewhat small but the prices are some of the most reasonable in town. As an added bonus next door there is a hopping happy bar in I believe what is called the Temple Court, it looks like The library at Trinity College in Dublin Ireland it was very well decorated and a lot of people just a happening place.

https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g60763-d24007645-r872196439-Le_Gratin-New_York_City_New_York.html#

Classic French Burgundy, Batard

Dinner at Batard in New York City is a classic experience. It is basically a French burgundy restaurant and for the most part 95% of the wine list is French burgundy which is one of the main reasons we went. Our 1st dishes were Russian caviar and Country pate both excellent and paired with a Chassange Montrachet from the Drouhin vineyards. We also had classic duck and Dover Sole that were perfectly prepared and further prepared at the table side. We were pretty full so passed on dessert though the dessert menu looked good. We were pleased with our meal understanding that it was very expensive. In general, you can't go to a top restaurant in New York and get a bottle of wine under $250, there are a few but truly most ones that you would want are gonna be about $250 regardless of where you go which adds to the bill. Batards prix fixe menu was reasonably priced the only reason we had a higher bill is that we pretty much ordered everything with a supplement. I recommend Batard and would go back.

https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g60763-d6663091-r871895999-Batard-New_York_City_New_York.html#

Spectacular Seafood Greek Style, Milos Hudson Yards

I have always loved Greek restaurants and Milos is one of the best. Located in the New Hudson yard complex in New York City the view is spectacular overlooking the Hudson river. The place was packed when we were there for lunch and based on current restaurant pricing in New York City I highly recommend you restrict your restaurant visits to these types of establishments at lunch. Even then the price for many is cost prohibitive. We had a perfectly prepared meal. I have always loved the way Greek restaurants prepare their fish using an almost perfect combination of Olive oil garlic and lemon. I started with a hummus platter that had 3 different types of hummus that were outstanding. Dessert was a joy. They have an extensive menu of fresh fish and shellfish in fact they had fresh stone crab which I would think is fairly rare in New York but again all fresh. We had a great bottle of wine and I was familiar with the vineyard and knew the owner it was a French white burgundy from Chateau Fuisse and it couldn't have been better. Service was 5 star and the meal was just memorable and spectacular. I highly recommend this restaurant.

https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g60763-d17327191-r871894844-Estiatorio_Milos-New_York_City_New_York.html#

Best Epoisse sauce ever, Le Pavillion

Le Pavilion is one of Daniel Boulards many restaurants in the New York area. It is located at One Vanderbilt which is directly next to Grand Central Station. Interestingly the main entrance is right across from the entrance to the Campbell Apartments which has an old art deco bar that we have been to many times , we visited last night and it is the same as it's been since the 1920s. We were warmly greeted on arrival and throughout the evening staff was professional accommodating friendly and helpful. Overall the food was excellent there were some exceptional dishes one of which I had probably the best Epoisse cheese sauce I've ever had in my life it could not have been made more perfectly and tasty. I could not refuse shaved white truffles on Dover Sole. The wine list was extensive with plenty of great wines including cult ones to experience but be aware the prices were 300% retail so very expensive though I was able to find a reasonable White Burgundy that satisfied our taste buds for the evening. Overall the dinner was elegant and expertly prepared the chef was able to accommodate special requests and in general we thought we received value for our dinner understanding of course that this restaurant is an expensive evening out but it is also in line with what you would expect in New York City from a top shelf restaurant.

 
https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g60763-d23423222-r871605664-Le_Pavillon-New_York_City_New_York.html#

Excellent Italian Sunday Brunch, Osteria Morini, Little Italy

An excellent place for Sunday brunch with great Italian food. They have a very good Italian wine list that though smaller than usual packs a lot of good stuff. I ended up having 3 different glasses of Italian white wine that one usually never sees like a Pecorino wine. The food was so good we order dinner to go as it was our last night in town and we needed to stay in our room and pack to catch the next day's flight home. Pasta is made in-house and I had an exceptional ravioli stuffed with ricotta in a white truffle sauce that was to die for. I am still tasting the finish 2 days later. Service was attentive and helpful. We came for one reason the chef or owner is also associated somehow with Ai Fiori which used to be our favorite restaurant in NYC but our lunch there this week was disappointing. But I am happy to say brunch at Morini was wonderful and recommended.

https://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g60763-d1995049-r872305798-Osteria_Morini-New_York_City_New_York.html#

No Bad Wine Before it's time

Remember Ernest and Julio Gallo’s old-time TV commercials. We will sell no wine until it’s time? I know I have said over and over again no one makes bad wine anymore. Winemakers don’t get up in the morning and say let's see how we can make cheap undrinkable wine today. In fact, I am certain they say the exact opposite. What can I do today to make the next great 100-point wine in the world? To a point wine making technique is pretty much made the same the world over. Close to 100% of winemakers graduate from the University with a degree in winemaking. The most famous most of us know is the University of California at Davis. And even after that many winemakers continue to go to school. In Burgundy, France all winemakers are required to take a specific one-year winemaking course peculiar to the Burgundy region.

So if no one makes bad wine why am I dedicating a new article to the subject? Last month I went to a charity function and as part of the games and prizes offered was a ring toss game where when your ring landed on a bottle of wine you won that bottle or any one of your choosing. As part of the game, there were approximately 50 different wines to throw your ring at. As I watched the festivities I realized I would never buy or drink any of those wines and there were quite a few to choose from. So if none of them were bad why would I not want any of them? I sort of felt a dilemma coming on and frankly, maybe my own opinion was hypocritical.

So what is going on? I have been to vineyards all over the wine and spent weeks watching and learning how winemakers make wine and especially their philosophies on how to craft a specific style of wine. After thought, it dawned on me basically why these lower-priced and less recognizable wines are there and I for one am, not interested in buying or drinking them, it really goes back to the Ernest and Julio Gallo commercial. They will sell no wine “before it’s time”. Making good wine takes a lot of time, years sometime, and can be very expensive. The key to making great wine is harvesting wine when the grapes have grown to perfect maturation. Winemakers have all kinds of tools to help them make the decision as to when to pick the grapes. They have computers that track the day-to-day weather changes and compare them to years past to get a read on what is going to be the best day to pick. They use Brix meters, a small tool with a needle they stick into a grape to measure the sugar or Brix level in the grape. The better ones who have been around a lifetime put a raw grape in their mouths and taste the grape which elevates it to an art form. Winemakers know that the best day to pick is at optimal maturation which means just the right amount of sugar concentration in the grape that when fermented will produce the best wine.

So what do the less expensive wine makers do? They pick the grapes early and pick before optimal sugar maturation has occurred. Time is money so they pick too early but not so early that the wine is not at least good. They also don’t spend a lot of time aging wines or pampering the wines in the production facility. The way they make wine is to speed up the process to get the wines in the bottle and onward to your wine shop in the shortest time they can get away with. Hence drinkable pleasant wine but nothing that will age or get any better and those wines will certainly never develop with complexity.

No the wine is not bad. But it is picked and made fast before the grapes have had enough time to mature to perfection. Ernest and Julio Gallo were right on. You don’t pick and make wine before it’s time. It’s funny but as a physician, I am aware that most medical schools in the world have a minimum age to enter medical school so that you have a minimal level of maturity to excel at the medical curriculum in regards to not only the technical aspects of medicine but also to be able to have a level of emotional and spiritual maturing to deal with the rigors of day to day practice. I have not heard anyone say they cannot wait to see the new 16-year-old doctor even though he is probably a genius having graduated from high school at 10.

The Restaurant and Shopping Scene, Montreal, Quebec, Canada

St. Catherine's Street, Eaton Mall

St. Catherine’s Street is the main shopping boulevard in Montreal much like 5th Avenue in New York City and is fairly extensive. Underneath Montreal, there are over 20 miles of underground shopping malls, stores, services, and restaurants due to the brutal winters. With the temperature hovering under 20 below everyone goes underground and they are all connected. We didn’t have that much time but our hotel the Montreal Renaissance which we highly recommend was next door to the Eaton Mall which had most of what you would want. I assume other malls in the distance probably have similar stores though I expect they all have some unique stores. Walking from mall to mall would be a great exercise to boot. We just did not have the time or energy to even go to a second one. If you go to Montreal I recommend you look up online a map of all the malls and underground and try and map out the tour that would meet your needs and interests.

Costco

I get it, what were we thinking? Look, there is a Costco now in almost any city you visit. And trust me none of them carry the same stuff. For one thing, we were able to stock up on winter ski wear here as our one in Jacksonville simply does not carry a lot of winter wear. We found great bargains. When we were in Napa Valley we visit Costco there which had the largest wine selection we have ever seen with prices significantly lower that right out the door. For us visiting Costco is usually entertainment and we usually find something at a great price we don’t find elsewhere. Costco in Montreal was a short Uber drive from downtown and worth the trip.

Bar Kabinet

A very interesting wine list and menu. We booked here after researching and reading reviews. It was not what we expected but in a good way. For one thing, it is a bit far out for an Uber ride on the outskirts of town and is at a very busy automobile intersection. We sat outside as cars and people wisked by next to us. The wine list was extensive with local wines most of which we would not care for. Sort of sweet wines. The server helps us pick one we liked and it was like a sauvignon blanc but different. The menu had some good choices and the servings were small but we had a chicken dish that was very good. Overall we enjoyed our dinner but in truth, this is really a bar with a modest wine and food menu with mostly Tapas.

Schwartz’s

We learned about this place by watching "Feed Phil" on TV. It is a must-visit place. The location is in a small community area and Uber knows how to get you there. There are two doors and we initially got a little confused. There is a take-out section with a very long line and then the actual restaurant which is limited seating at tables and then a long bar to sit at. The food was some of the tastiest and best pastrami I have had in my life. The menu is limited but wonderful and everything is great and the atmosphere is super casual and lively. I would look forward to returning. I question the negative reviews and know everyone has a bad day from time to time. It is nowhere close to a fancy place and is old but the service and food were just what I expected.

Campos Portuguese Chicken at Time Out Eaton Center

We went to the one at Time Out at the Eaton Center in Montreal. Another bucket list kind of food. It is somewhat spicy Portuguese Chicken to die for. Marinated and then slow roasted in a grill basket the meat just falls off the bone and is succulent. I don't see the less-than-stellar reviews. Our food was exceptional and we had no problems with service either. I would definitely return next trip to Montreal. It is just a unique combination of spices and marinate and specialized slow cooking that makes this dish exceptional. The fries were pretty good too.

Au Pied De Cochon

We learned about this place by watching "Feed Phil" in Montreal. It is one of the best know places in Montreal and it is somewhat out of the way via Uber but we had no issue finding it and are we glad we did. Unquestionably the most unique and best choices of Foie Gras we have had in years. We ended up having both for an appetizer and dessert what they call a Foie Gras Parfait. The Foie Gras is a very delicate mousse on toast with maple syrup, truffle oil, and something else but just a sublime hedonistic taste that we could simply not get enough of. We had a fresh fish dish that was excellent for our entree and a good bottle of wine. Their wine list was good with some at reasonable prices. For us service was outstanding and the vibe of the place was energetic yet pleasant and controlled. We cannot wait to go back again. Clearly, a top place to hunt down in Montreal.

Henri’s Brassier Francais

Let me first state that we were aware of the negative reviews prior to dining here. Our hotel was right next door and we had passed by a couple of times where we witnessed exceptional decor and architecture as well as an establishment full of happy well-fed customers. So there was a disconnect between the reviews and what we witnessed ourselves so we decided to see for ourselves and are glad we did. Our dinner and the service were wonderful. I should say that the staff during the meal when we were commenting on how good everything was told us new staff had recently been brought in to improve the dining experience here telling me that management was aware of the negative reviews and making the necessary changes. Everyone comments on the decor and architecture which is exceptional. You feel you are in the middle of downtown Paris. It is old-time beautiful art deco which for us was very relaxing. For us, the service was professional and polite, and not overbearing. The wine list was extensive and there were many reasonably priced wines along with some priced way too high. Our food was perfect all prepared perfectly. From what I can see whatever problems they had in the past they have corrected and I highly recommend the place and will return.

Holland America Cruise Boston to Montreal

My 1st impressions of our Holland America cruise to Montreal Canada were not the greatest. To begin with, a lot of paperwork was required prior to the cruise and obviously through no fault of anyone Covid was a large factor. We received frequent emails which basically stated we had to download their app to keep up with whatever was going on and in order to conduct any inquiries or business with Holland America. The problem was from day one we had difficulty with the app as it did not always work. The app never acknowledged our reservation until 48 hours prior to embarkation and the staff advised us when we got on the boat their computer system frequently did not work. One example when we entered the boat staff tried to look us up and scan us in and the staff member stated the computer is not working again I have to manually input everything taking us time. In general there were multiple times we were requested to provide the same exact information over and over and it became tiresome. At embarkation we were required to show passports and vaccination cards at least 3 separate times despite being “scanned” in. When we went to our rooms our keys immediately did not work we had to go to guest services and get new keys. When we got in the room there were a few maintenance issues chief of which was some of the bathroom equipment had essentially fallen off and had not been mounted correctly. So before the ship ever left port we had already had multiple frustrating times.

We were on the Zaandam which is one of their older ships. Overall it was adequate and comfortable. We were in what they call a Vista “mini” suite which in truth was a basic cruise ship room. The major difference was the outside balcony which was one of the largest we have ever seen. The only problem was we almost never stay outside on the balcony that long so the increase in space was not that much. The room was well stocked and our steward was always helpful and willing to meet our requests and other than initially being placed on top of the loudest nightclub on the ship with the loudest drummer we slept well. And that is why I will never sail with Holland America again because Guest services was worthless and lied to us. It turned out our beds were directly above the drummer who was in an enclosed plexiglass cage which dampened the sound in the nightclub but directed the sound directly upward under our beds. The ship was not full and we found out there were 600 open rooms, yet Guest Services told us there were no available rooms to move us too and they would give me ear plugs. We clearly benefited from the services of a travel agent on this trip as we complained to them and they had direct communication with Holland America corporate offices who sent an order to the ship to move us and when they did it was an identical room on the other side of the ship with no noise. They knew all along they could move us but were too lazy to do so and lied to us. We heard from others that Guest Services(the old Purser desk) were not helpful with them. So in general Guest Services was one of the worst we have seen and will prevent us from sailing with Holland America again.

One reason to take the cruise was the availability of specialty restaurants and we were booked at all of them with the exception of two nights where we dined in the main dining room. Our 1st dinner was the Pinnacle Grill Steakhouse and again 1st day problems persisted as the 1st item I ordered off of the menu I was told sir we're sorry we don't have that tonight we are already out. Overall the food at the specialty restaurants was very good and worth the cost and time and effort. I must mention however that the two dinners we had in the main dining room were also very good and as we reviewed the menus every day we noticed that the main dining room would always have 2 or 3 dishes from the specialty restaurants and again the service and food was very good. I actually wished I had done dinner more in the main dining room.

One of the worst experiences with dining was dessert. We only had one acceptable dessert and that was a chocolate souffle at the Pinnacle Steakhouse which was perfectly prepared but every other place we had dessert they were awful, under cooked, sometimes raw, etc. It appeared they do not have a pastry chef to oversea this and deliver a quality product.

Our ports of call were fine though the cities and areas close to the ship did not offer much. The best port was Quebec City and the tour there was good and I recommend including a day or two next time to better explore Quebec City. We had planned to stay in Montreal for a few days after the cruise so it was not an issue there.  I also should mention one reason to take this cruise is to see the fall colors.  Oops, climate change has changed that.  There was no color change and it looks like it will be November before that happens so best to check the past years history when the leaves changed prior to booking.

Overall we have had better cruises. We learned a lot from this one and will do a better job in the future of researching cruises. I will say that in all of our years of cruising problems with Guest Services has always been the area that has failed and resulting in our not booking that cruise line in the future. Why companies do not put their best people in those positions with a skill set of solving problems and being people friendly is beyond me. To me it is the most important job on a ship and the one that will encourage future bookings.

It's SOBE Baby

For years we spent a week at South Beach Miami(SOBE) even attending the SOBE wine and food festival. But age has not been nice to us and we can no longer tolerate the heat, late nights, and the wine and culinary Olympics we used to attend. One year we had two dinners, one at 6 PM at Emeril’s and a second dinner at Opium at midnight, then drinking and dancing until 6 AM where we had breakfast at the News Cafe. We just cannot do it anymore, and besides all of those places are closed. So after a decade since our last trip, it was time to take a short trip during the week as hotel prices are a steal mid-week, and check out the new culinary and nightclub scene as best we could tolerate it. We did not do a lot but it was a nice trip and we were glad to return and hope to return in the future. On our latest night, we got in at 11 PM. During the day there is plenty of shopping on Lincoln Road Mall.  Below are our recommendations.

Hotel Lord Balfour https://www.thebalfourmiamibeach.com 305-538-1055

The Lord Balfour at the south end of ocean drive a couple of blocks south of 5th street on ocean drive is a gem. We stayed there on a travel zoo promotion at a very reasonable price and we were very pleased. I'm happy to recommend the hotel to those who want to go to South Beach. It has one major advantage in that it is very quiet at night. You are only 2 blocks from the noisy action but when you go to bed you sleep well. The hotel is a little dated and traditional even though it was remodeled 3 years ago. It could use some touch-up paint here and there but the rooms though small are very comfortable, clean, and have all the basics you need including in-room coffee. I can also recommend the restaurant. We had breakfast every morning and frankly it was one of the best restaurant breakfasts we have enjoyed. For those who know it feels like a typical European boutique hotel. Management is very involved and allowed me to make suggestions to them. The staff was helpful and professional. We hope to return soon.   

Red Steakhouse

Red Steakhouse what a disappointment they've been around for years. A few years ago they moved to their new location and the decor is impressive. The food was good and the service was OK but the prices were completely unreasonable for what you received. They have an extensive wine list but their wine prices were over 5 times retail which in my opinion is unforgivable and just pure greed. Food prices are going up everywhere, I understand that, but here they really didn't match the quality of the food. Everything that was served was good but it was nothing but basic food. I had a pound and a 1/2 of king crab legs that obviously were the weight with the shell and they were kind enough to shell them for me but I only ended up with the meat of 4 medium size legs the price was $129 which to me was way beyond what an entree should be. The sides were again OK but nothing to write home about and certainly not worth the cost. Overall very overpriced for what you get and we will not be going back.

Osteria del Teatro   http://osteriadelteatro.miami/ 305-538-7850

What a joy! They have been here for at least 40 years we've eaten there many times and they haven't dropped a beat. It's one of the best places to eat in South Beach. They moved to their new facility about 6 years ago and it is twice the size of the old one and a lot more opulent. But the friendly professional staff and the high-quality northern Italian cuisine have not changed a bit. They are known for their prawns in that they actually serve U2 prawns the size of your hand cooked to perfection. I have only seen these prawns this size here. With no prompting, they were prepared to serve me Italian Zabion and berry's for dessert which is a huge plus. They also had other selections of desserts which were excellent. I just cannot say enough good about this restaurant. They clearly demonstrate what a great restaurant should be and I can't wait to return.   

Time Out Market  https://www.timeoutmarket.com/miami/

Time out market is a very interesting facility one block off the Lincoln road mall. Basically, it's 21 small restaurants featuring some of the top Chefs in the Miami area. Anything from burgers to Sushi to Mexican, you name it. It's very casual and the food we had there was excellent. It's a good place to go and get a variety of Miami cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere. They have a full bar in the middle of the building and all the staff were helpful and friendly and accommodating.

Uber in South Beach

Uber is wonderful here and we have never had a problem. We only had to wait more than 2 or 3 minutes once and all of the drivers were friendly and professional, and the cars were comfortable and clean. You really cannot drive a car around SOBE, especially at night and especially on ocean drive. In the fact, the city of Miami requires that the Ubers pick you up on Collins which is one block from ocean drive because it's basically bumper-to-bumper on Ocean Drive, especially on weekends. We basically park our car leave it at the hotel and take Uber.

Safron Mediterranean Grill  https://safron-grill.business.site/ 305-397-8118

Safron grill at the intersection of Washington Street and 11th street was recommended by our good friend Luis. It is a great Mediterranean restaurant to go to for lunch. It's listed as a Turkish restaurant but in reality, it's Eastern Mediterranean with food from Turkey, Cyprus, and Lebanon. The food was excellent as was the service. They had all of your favorite eastern Mediterranean delicacies such as Tabbuli, and Babaganush, and theirs is primo, lamb, and Falafels. I don't even like Falafel but there's was probably the best I've ever had. All of the food was freshly made in-house and about his authentic, as you can get. We had the salad platter and a lamb gyro and were very pleased. I also had homemade baklava which I haven't had in years. I highly recommend this restaurant if you like Eastern Mediterranean delicacies.

Stiltsville Fish Bar  www.stiltsvillefishbar.com 786-655-4365

This is a small place a little north of Lincoln Road Mall. Their claim to fame is fresh seafood off the docks and to us it was true. We saw a lot of locals eating here and the place was full by 7 PM so it must be good if locals flock to it. Interestingly we ended up eating something different from fresh seafood. They had a surf and turf burger which was basically a lobster roll sandwich combined with a burger. I was intrigued so I had it and it was a unique experience. The burger and meat were actually very tasty and good and one of the better burgers I have had recently. So go figure. We had a nice meal. We met the owner who was gracious and involved. Of interest, I accidentally spilled a fairly expensive glass of bourbon and the owner topped it off for me. Our server was knowledgeable and friendly and overall it was a good experience and I recommend them.

Kanoli  https://puff-hookah.com/  305-981-6688

Located at 1236 Ocean Drive this is the place to go for dinner and a show. The owner is committed to great food, service, and entertainment, and each evening there are some of the best musicians in Miami playing, one of whom is my good friend Luis Mejia from Columbia who is a classical trained Flamenco guitar player who has performed all over the world. He has settled down for the most part with his family in Miami and plays mostly on weeknights which worked well for us as we are less enthusiastic with crowds anymore. The restaurant has an extensive food and drink menu and great friendly service. We were able to a couple of nights in a row for dessert, coffee, and drinks, and very much enjoyed Luis’s multimedia show. And for those of you who are into it they also are a Hookah bar to enjoy with the show.  To me, Kanoli offers the best of SOBE.

Update on Vitamin D Dosing and Use

 I recently reviewed and some of you have contacted me regarding an article illustrating that too much Vitamin D can be harmful and to be cognizant and aware of the dose you are taking and to be again aware of Vitamin D toxicity.  The problem with these news articles is they like to have this big headline that grabs your attention in order to sell the paper but all you remember is the headline because it was so scary and then you either don't read the article or you read it and don't pay attention because you are now scared.

Let us be clear.  This article was regarding ONE and only ONE person who was taking 50,000 IU of Vitamin D 3X PER DAY.  Not one, not two but 3X per day!!!   Of course, he was going to be toxic.  I have said over and over all drugs have a therapeutic window and any drug can be toxic and just because a little helps does not mean more helps more.  It does NOT!  The correct dosage of 50,000 IU for someone who is severly Vitamin deficient is one capsule weekly for about 4 weeks and then ONE PER MONTH.

The correct dose today of Vitamin D that has been shown to help prevent or reduce cancer incidence and Covid infection is 4000 IU once a day or 50,000 once or twice a month.  Even with these lower doses you periodically want to have your doctor check your serum Vitamin D level and Calcium level.  Your Vitamin D level needs to be over 40 and your Calcium level needs to be around 10.  Previous recommendations as a "normal" Vitamin level of 20-30 in my opinion are too low.

Vitamin D has a decent therapeutic level.  But if you take 50,000 IU 3X a day you will get sick.

Memorable Restaurants and Bars Pacific Northwest, Canada, and Croatia

Returning from almost 6 weeks of travel I now sit down and reminisce about some of the exceptional dinners we had on our trip, even in the face of Covid. Despite dining in some somewhat mediocre establishments the fact remains there were some very shiny stars. I was brought up with a saying if you cannot say something nice say nothing at all. A rule I never totally followed to my detriment. But I am proud to say below are some very, very nice places that I can say something good about and recommend you visit if you are able and in the area.

Memorable Restaurants and Bars Croatia

Zoi Restaurant. Split waterfront outside terrace with Emperor Diocletian's Palace(305 AD) wall and columns against your back wall overlooking the harbor.

Recipient of L’Assiette Michelin and Award from Gault & Millau for an extraordinary dinner with exceptional food and service in the shadow of a 2000-year-old palace. Service was outstanding with a quick story.  One of our group is sadly allergic to olive oil and cannot have any so when ordering always has to tell the server I cannot have olive oil.  When this was said the server showing great humor stated "Let me understand, you come to a place in the world where olive oil is the main ingredient, WHAT WERE YOU THINKING"!!  We are still laughing.  Known for their appetizer of crab and shrimp taco’s our dining guests could not have agreed more as to the succulent taste of the shellfish and freshness. Everyone was mesmerized by the well-prepared and fresh dishes including the grilled white fish which is a staple in Croatia and could be called the National dish. All courses were well prepared. Their wine list was good with reasonable prices. We had brought our own wine and negotiated the corkage which included buying some of their wine but their local Croatian white wine was so good we put ours away and purchased repeat bottles of their white wine. Yes, it was that good. Such a great dinner we lingered for dessert and afterward enjoying the views of the local people and the harbor. Without question one of the top dining destinations in Croatia and reason enough to return.

Puteus Restaurant Pucisca Croatia

It may be a very small peaceful village and harbor but Pucisca contains absolutely one of the best restaurants in Croatia. Pučišća is a coastal town and a municipality on the island of Brač in Croatia. It is often listed as one of the prettiest villages in Europe. It is known for its white limestone and beautiful bay. The town has a population of 1,351 So take the next Ferry and come for dinner. It is not well marked and we found it by happenstance. There is a Church on the opposite side of the harbor and there is a doorway to the side of the Church with a menu displayed which caught our attention. Reading the menu we were stunned at the Michelin level of offerings so we walked up the stairs to explore and walked into a large outside courtyard with beautifully groomed lawns and gardens with tables outside. We were warmly welcomed and seated. The staff was highly professional, friendly, elegant, and formally dressed.  We were allowed to bring our own wine which was a plus. The menu was typical for Croatia with lots of meat and shellfish grilled to perfection in the courtyard. What most impressed me and is still imprinted in my brain was the beef tenderloin. In general, I find beef, especially in France, to be poor. I like to say they don’t have steers or Angus in Europe. Spoiler alert it was hands down the best tenderloin I have had in years. Tender and I was able to cut it with a fork, no knife was needed. Flavorful, velvet sensation, great taste, and again not one bit of toughness or unpleasantness in the meat. I had to wonder where it came from. Everyone raved about the food. I will return, in fact, we are considering how we might return to Pucisca for a few days knowing there must be other similar experiences on the island. I am fairly certain we will need to learn the Ferry schedule.

Adio Mare, Korcula

Korčula is a town on the east coast of the island of Korčula where you will find this gem. A bit of an institution, Adio Mare is Korcula town’s oldest-family-run restaurant and little has changed since it opened in 1974. It's a friendly, buzzy, hearty Dalmatian restaurant showcasing tradition rather than innovation. Book a table on the shaded terrace upstairs and enjoy the brodet fish stew with polenta, the grilled meats, or the pasta with beans. There's a decent enough selection of local wines. Without reservations, we were served inside but it made no difference as the food and service were spectacular. Serving the Croatian specialty, first-class grilled white fish, we were presented prior to cooking a couple of local white fish we could have, and being bold we had them all. Grilled to perfection we could not have made a better choice. They were wine-friendly, allowed us to bring our own wine and we bought some of theirs which were great. Service was attentive and educational and professional. We were in such a good mood after dinner we ended up buying jewelry at the local jewelry shop down the street. Another place to learn how to get there by Ferry and maybe stay a day or two as they have other local restaurants reported as outstanding also.

Bard Bar, Dubrovnik Old City

Across the way from Azur restaurant is an unmarked door. If you watch it for a while you will notice lines of people entering and leaving. Your curiosity is perked up. You wonder. You build courage and then you enter walking down a very narrow staircase inside limestone walls and walk out into thin air standing on a ledge overlooking the Adriatic Sea with maybe one handrail. Below your feet you see a terrace of similar ledges going down into the water and to your right, you see a simple bar with a sign or two and a couple of servers. On each ledge, there are chairs and tables and again if you are lucky you pick a ledge with some kind of surrounding handrails or just a ledge with just you and thin air down to the water. Many patrons go to the bottom and enjoy a drink and go swimming. Your server comes navigating the rock ledges with ease. It gives the statement table service a new meaning. Nothing is served here except drinks and no food, but the drink menu is adequate and to our surprise had Couvasier XO Cognac one of our favorites that is not even offered at some of the 5-star establishments we go to. The bar is not for the faint of heart and it certainly is not one designed for shots or heavy drinking as there is a high risk of ending up in the water. The owners have to have low overhead as there is no building so no heat, air conditioner, minimal electricity, etc. But I am willing to bet their liability insurance, if any, is through the roof. But the view at sunset is one of the best you will ever experience. Even Rick Steves knows about this place.

Pacific Northwest and Canada

Castello Fairmont Hotel Banff

A gem in the Canadian Rockies. Located at the Fairmont Hotel Banff it is a Northern Italian restaurant with all your favorites, but more importantly seamless, attentive, caring service and staff with perfectly prepared food. Arriving late, as you always do with the Rocky Mountaineer train, we were given what appeared to be the last reservation of the evening, but graciously and warmly welcomed. They were gracious and squeezed us in and everything went uphill from there.  We were pleased with the classic menu including Alberta Prime Beef Carpaccio which was outstanding, Mushroom Risotto, Caprese and Caesar salads, and Chicken Piccata one of the best I have had. Eggplant Parmesan and Braised Lamb Shank and Veal Parmesan were there also. Again a classic menu. The wine list was exceptional with reasonably priced wines. They even went to other restaurants to get the wine list to make sure that we had the best wine available that we wanted they also sent over their main sommelier who helped us which was going the extra mile. We requested some minor modifications to the orders that we put in for the food that was graciously accepted and carried out without a flaw. After dinner Executive Chef Anthony Rossi and Outlet Manager Diane McLean came out to meet us where we complimented them on the outstanding dinner. By that time it was just us and them so we closed the place down. My lasting impression was how welcoming they were knowing we were very tired and they were too looking forward to going home yet their dedication to serving the last tired guest in an outstanding manner with perfectly prepared food was palpable. We will return to Banff just to eat here.

Sharps Roasthouse down the street from SEATAC Airport, Seattle

This has to be one of the most fun, unique, and perfectly prepared food casual steakhouses. Notice I say casual. It is not a dark NYC Michelin kind of place. Come in your shorts and jeans you will fit right in. But what a treat. We were staying down the street at the Hilton so it was a short Uber ride and we could not have been more pleased. The menu is a delight. Starting at 5 PM they serve their signature dish a custom cut no. 109 Prime Rib which frankly we had to have and was one of the best we have ever had. You will not go wrong with ordering this. The drink menu was extensive and being a Bourbon drinker I had to have their own in-house-made Bourbon which was very good but whatever you want I think they have. Everything on the menu looked spectacular including hamburgers made with Prime meat, Fried Chicken, fresh seafood which you would assume, and a good listing of appetizers and small plates. Food preparation was perfect and as ordered and very tasty and fresh. Overall an outstanding and seamless dinner we were sad to have to leave. I have a crazy thought to just fly over to SEATAC one day just to have dinner and then fly back. Crazy right?

Le Crocodile Vancouver near Fairmont Vancouver Downtown

Unequivocally one of the top five meals in our life. We were told by the hotel Bellman that this was the best French restaurant in North America and we have nothing but praise and agreement with him the food was spectacular and perfectly prepared. The menu is extensive including all of your favorite French classics prepared exquisitely perfectly and better than 99% of the world. We had lobster bisque frog legs fillet of Sole, Lobster all of it was simply marvelous. The service was exceptional by Michael promptly and professionally. Chef Michel welcomed us and took a few minutes out of his busy schedule and dinner service to speak with us he is a great French gentleman and Chef and I highly recommend you dine at his restaurant. The wine list represented the entire world there were some good choices I would say that for many wines I thought the prices were too high but again you will not be disappointed in the quality and the service. I just cannot say enough good about this restaurant it was the highlight of our trip so far and made up for a lot of disappointments that we've had in a couple of weeks past. We missed our flights today and I'm so glad we did or we would have not had the opportunity to experience the best in French cuisine.

Chateau Pommard Wines

Kudos to Jeff & Cindy Coggin from Coggin Travel Agency, Atlanta, Georgia who put together an outstanding cruise along the Snake and Columbia Rivers following the Lewis & Clark trail where every evening at dinner we had a white and red Chateau Pommard wine.  Chateau Pommard has been around for centuries, originally founded in 1725,  but was purchased and upgraded a few years ago by Michael Baum who continues to make outstanding terroir driven wine from this vineyard.  I encourage you to take a trip to Burgundy to visit the vineyard.  You can't miss it it is one of the first vineyards you will see on the southern wine trail leaving Beaune.  They also have a direct to consumer program with reasonable shipping and ship to most states in the USA.  You can contact them here:

https://www.chateaudepommard.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjw5ZSWBhCVARIsALERCvyp5aX1C_62SadSDfdYzAfqjycoxwUQ1ll9Rtd4XI9rLzST1178ihYaAua1EALw_wcB

Chateau Pommard White Burgundy

Meursault 2015

This appellation has been around since the Middle Ages. One of my favorite families lives in the Village of Meursault in the shadow of the Church Bell tower, the Matrot’s who have been there for generations. As a rule, I do not favor Meursault finding them too much minerality, which some like better than me. I was in the minority on this one as many felt it was wimpy but I found that made it more approachable and pleasant. I called it “Meursault lite”. It was fairly complex on the nose and taste but understated. I tasted butter, a little smoke but subdued flint. There was good acidity making it a nice food-friendly wine. Yes, it lacked body but overall was a well-made basic entry-level Meursault and one that I could see buying.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru 2016

For many the greatest Chardonnay in the world is French Montrachet, a small vineyard worked by around 25 producers, some owning only 3 vines. The area itself goes back to Medieval times and over the years was divided into Puligny and Chassagne communes where today there are distinct villages present. As a rule, the Chassange’s are felt to be “softer” and more “feminine” but as usual, that may be a personal bias of some. In addition, as you will note later, Chassagne is one of the “white” areas that produce some “reds”. This particular “village” wine by Chateau Pommard is a basic simple Chassange-Montrachet with lots of fruit on the nose and flavor profile. A fairly classic Chassagne with primary flavors of vanilla and lemon and a hint of almond and hazelnut. There is a sense of minerality but to me, it is more in the background and not as pronounced as you find in a Puligny. It has an adequate acid skeleton which makes it food-friendly.

Santenay 1er Cru La Maladiere 2017

Fairly south in the Cote de Or this commune produces lighter whites with a continued mineral character due to fairly consistent clay/limestone soil which concentrates the terroir of the wine. Santenay is another southern Cote de Or area that makes red Burgundy but continues to make nice whites also. This particular wine could be described as having a balance of lime and vanilla in the nose and taste. For years California Chardonnay’s have been made at times attempting to have some lime and “green” color to the wine. It simply adds to the complexity which only adds to the allure of the wine. I clearly found pear, lemon, and apple here and some honeysuckle. It was a delightful wine with dinner and I highly recommend it, especially with buttery fish dishes.

Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru “Morgeot” 2018

A single vineyard premier cru white Burgundy that frankly a few vintners make wine from. This particular wine has a hedonistic nose and a flavor profile emphasizing lemon and vanilla. The oak is there but restrained. It is well balanced and the acid is right making the wine food-friendly. There is plenty of minerality in the wine but the fruit is equal to the minerality. An above-average wine with a reasonable price profile worth purchasing.

Ladoix 1er Cru Les Grechons 2018

I have now had this wine multiple times and all tastings have been very consistent. It is a little higher in acid when compared to other wines in the region but that only makes it more food-friendly especially with spicy food as well as shellfish. It should be remembered that these grapes come from the higher plots on the hill of Corton so one way to think of this wine is it is similar to the Grand Cru Corton Charlemagne at a significantly lower price. There is a lot of fruit smell and tastes a little different featuring flowers like honeysuckle, pineapple, and grapefruit with a hint of tart apple. Some tasters found mango, I thought maybe. Noted to have a long finish demonstrating the power of the wine.

Chateau Pommard Red Burgundy

Chambolle-Musigny 2017

When you spend as much time as I have in Burgundy and listen to the actual people who live there and make the wine you learn a lot that you do not learn from the distributors. Many years ago winemakers from the region advised me as far as they were concerned Chambolle-Musigny Red Burgundy was the benchmark that all Red Burgundies should be judged against and that it was your basic Red Burgundy and the one that the French preferred. I must admit once I started drinking them I was convinced. They are driven by ripe fruit on a foundation of limestone and flint background that gives them a unique taste. This one did not fail. The nose had fruit and limestone in a balanced profile. There is a velvet mouth feel and everything was balanced including the tannins which were subdued and elegant against a balanced acidity. There was a good finish. I agree it is drinkable now with some aging potential though my experience with 2017 burgundies, which I love, may not be as long as others.

Volnay 1er Cru 2017

Volnay is a commune close to Pommard in the Cote de Beaune somewhat on the upslope and is noted for having more mineral in the red wines and can compare to Monthelie which is adjacent. To me, 2017 was a great year in Burgundy and I continue to enjoy a wide variety of 2017s. I enjoyed this one which demonstrated a good level of complexity with flavors in the nose and the taste of cherry, blackberry, and blackcurrant. There was an earthy component one would expect. Balanced with a good finish it should have some aging potential as tannins and acid were balanced and adequate to maintain a good body to the wine.

Maranges 1er Cru Clos des Loyeres 2018

A fairly new commune making wine since 1988 south of the Cote de Or and close to Chagny and north of Rully and Mercurey the reds tend to have a mineral character reflective of the terroir of clay and limestone soil in the area. 2018 was another good year produced in this wine a more concentrated Pinot with an adequate fruit profile with cherry flavors and hints of flowers. The tannins were to be smooth and both tannin and acid integration were balanced and the wine had a good finish. The wine had a lighter body than some but the balanced complexity made the wine a pleasant quaff with dinner.

Chassange-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot 2016

Almost from the exact same vineyard but a premier cru red Burgundy from the southern Cote de Or. This wine has a good body and tannin structure and clearly presents both in the nose and flavor with characteristic cherry flavor along with a complexity including blackberry and currant and licorice is present with a hint of smoke. Balanced and velvety are words that come to mind. Well made worth aging.

Clos Marey-Monge Monopole 2008

Monopole means what you think it means. The vineyard completely owns and operates that vineyard without sharing it with anyone. This particular red Burgundy has been one of the main vineyards of Chateau Pommard going back 3 centuries. The winemaker Emmanuel Sala says this wine offers complexity along with subtlety and is like an Irish step dance, light but perpetual. I found it to have a little more body than that but clearly complex. The nose and flavor are classic red Burgundy with lots of cherry along with a spicy character. It comes from 7 single plots so with blending you might expect a somewhat flavor profile from year to year but it is a well-made wine with meticulous attention to detail. It was one of the best wines of the week and highly recommended.

Good vs. Great Wine

Let’s again be honest. No one to my knowledge gets up in the vineyard every day and says let's see how we can make bad, awful wine today. Every winemaker I have ever met is there because they truly believe they will make the next 100-point wine or the next Screaming Eagle, or the next DRC Montrachet. You have to wonder are they delusional. Sometimes they are. It always boils down to two things in general. Things the winemaker can control and things they cannot. They cannot control the weather. All you need to do is look back at the weather for the past decade and you will notice that the changing weather has severely impacted wine production everywhere in the world. On the other hand, the technical aspects of winemaking and the basic chemistry have advanced a hundredfold and today, again across the world, the things winemakers can control, have become somewhat consistent from vineyard to vineyard with most winemakers now graduating from some 4-year college winemaking program. When they make wine they can “tweak” these technical details which in my opinion changes the “style” of the wine, percentage of alcohol, concentration of fruit, etc. but in the end, the actual production of the wine produces fermented alcoholic grape juice which again comes out in many ways the same.

When you read Wine Spectator or The Wine Advocate you immediately notice “scores”. Their wine experts do a report card on every wine they taste and publish for your information a score which has the intent, good or bad, to direct you to “better” or “higher quality” wines in that wine writer's opinion. Truthfully I have done the same thing. But every wine writer has a “bias” myself included. Every wine writer has a different number of taste buds on their tongue meaning no two might taste the same exact wine the same so hence their “opinion” might differ. Robert Parker to most people's understanding was biased towards big, high alcohol, jammy wines. For me my bias is balance. Wine again is grape juice with alcohol in it. But the alcohol should not be so high that all you taste is alcohol. If that is what you want you should buy vodka or grain alcohol. If all you want is sweet fruit juice then buy Welsh grape juice. But if you are like most wine buyers you want something in between. A beverage with enough alcohol to be pleasant and a taste experience that makes you think a little improves your food tastes, and in the end fits your budget.

What dawns on me is this. The question I need to answer is what is the difference between “good” wine and for me, 99% of all wine produced is “good”. But what defines “great” wine that stands out from the rest? What I have discovered over the years is that those “scores” don’t always mean the wine is a “great” wine. Usually, a higher score means a “greater” wine but not always, and maybe not for you or me but just the guy or gal writing about the wine due to their and our genetic makeup and number of taste buds on the tongue. In basic logic in order for a statement to be “true,” it has to be “true” 100% of the time. To my knowledge, I have never seen 100% of wine writers come out and say we all agree this is a “great” wine or the best ever, etc. Maybe close to 100% but still not 100%. So I have to ask is there something more fundamental or even complicated that I am overlooking?

Years ago I came up with a list of what I called spiritual wines. In short, my great wines. I have never forgotten them and I can usually list them by heart. In no particular order they are 1990 D’Yquem Sauternes, 1989 Aux Allots Leroy Red Burgundy, 1977 Sonoma Hanzell Chardonnay as well as the Pinot Noir, and 2003 Chateau Guiraud Sauternes as examples. Clearly what I consider “great” wines. But why? For one thing, they were unique. They had a unique taste profile I had not tasted before or after. Something special about them. Of the batch, the 1990 D’Yquem is a repeat favorite. Every time I drink it the sensation and thought “velvet” comes to mind, “smooth”, not too sweet, just right. Sort of the Goldilocks syndrome. Nothing out of place. The Red Burgundy had the most memorable cherry taste I can remember. A perfect cherry. None of these wines tasted anywhere close to similar wines and vintages, again very unique. As previously stated they were perfectly balanced, nothing out of place. And finally, a long pleasant hedonistic finish that evolved into a lifetime memory. You simply never forget.

I do understand that my list will not be yours or others, primarily due to our genetic differences. Your “great” wine may only be a “good” one for me or vice versa. That’s OK. In the end, all those scores help point you in the right direction but they should not be the only direction. The only way to find a “great” wine is to drink a lot of “good” wines. I sometimes deer hunt and was told years ago that you will never harvest a deer if you are not out in the woods(getting mosquito bit, stepping on snakes, being wet and cold, etc.) so the same rule applies with wine. You have to be in the arena.

My conclusion in the end for me a “great” wine is a perfectly balanced unique wine that surprises and delights me and I never forget. In fact, as I have said before it sends me on a quest to find it again at $10 a bottle. I also understand that “great” wines take time(remember the Gallo TV ads?) and usually cost a little more, but not always. There is no question that when you look at a list of great winemakers as Wine Spectator recently did writing about the founding fathers of California Chardonnay every winemaker there was meticulous and obsessed with getting it right and another factor you cannot quantify is that those winemakers and many others have is the “art” of wine. Something that only they, and sometimes even they don’t, know.

What British Air Club World Business Class does NOT tell you

1. There is minimal to no help for the disabled or elderly

2. The seat configuration is schizophrenic. Every other seat is reversed front and back and is separated by a screen that is only up in flight. Due to the nature of the construction your area around your legs is contracted side to side and clausterphobic. Middle seats have no screen so you may be sleeping on the entire flight next to a stranger.

3. The personal drawer is generally inaccessible except for takeoff and landing

4. Hand-held controller to control entertainment system is behind your shoulder and head and difficult to access. The buttons are not marked so it is impossible to see how to use it. Additionally the one USB charging port in the same area making it difficult for access. There is an additional 110V plug by the personal drawer and is inaccessible as well as being turned off during takeoff and landing

5. Seats lay flat and have a foot stool which allows you to lay down flat but it is not a lay flat bed and is very narrow making the only position lying on your back best.

6. Overall the equipment is worn and some does not operate as intended. I overheard some seats don't go back to flat and British Air does not offer adequate compensation if this happens.

7. The entertainment system and TV and food tables are difficult to remove in that they are stuck because their old and you have to get your fingernails in there to pull them out.

8. Every window seats face backwards and some do not have isle access so you have to walk over the person on the aisle when they're laying flat to get out.

9. Food was not particularly good and no where close to what is represented on the YouTube videos.

10. The crew spends a lot of time checking seat belts every time the lights come on including waking you if you are sleeping to check your seat belt. Crew seems untrained to handle sick passengers and offered minimal help.

11 The amenity bag were one of the cheapest I have ever seen. The zipper breaks the minute you open and the products are extremely small amounts and not enough for the flight.

12. You are charged for seat assignment prior to 24 hour check in time despite paying thousands of dollars for the ticket.

13. In my opinion the YouTube videos recommending this class of service are obviously paid advertisements and not honest evaluations.

14.  The Boeing 777 wide-body we flew on was not a comfortable plane.  I highly recommend the Boeing 787 Dreamliner as the best wide body for long-haul flights if you can do it.

Overall business class on British Air for their Club World Seats are uncomfortable, inadequate, and provide no worthy amenities to make you comfortable. For the amount of money spent you can do better on another airline.

Back On The Road Again

Back on the road again.  It's fairly obvious that post-Covid travel is changed a lot.  The first thing you notice is the crowds.  Having just spent a month visiting the Pacific Northwest, Canada, and Europe which included Britain and Croatia I was amazed by the number of people traveling.  Every flight was full and there were masses of people at every Gate, restaurant, and security line.  Because of the crowds, it is obvious that you have to get to the airport at least an hour or two earlier than in the past.  Compounding the increase in crowds is the decrease in staff.  Everyone is short-staffed. They are trying to improve but the way they're improving is by hiring completely inexperienced young untrained staff and training them on the job in the middle of the battle and it only adds to the problem and confusion and is not really helping. But on the other hand, what are you going to do?  At least in Europe compounding the crowd issue is the increased utilization of discount Airlines such as EasyJet.  EasyJet provides inexpensive no-frills tickets for traveling and it seems that everyone was taking advantage of cheap tickets.  One of the new requirements that created issues for us was everyone wants you to check-in online 24 hours in advance and if you haven't checked in online then it slows down your process of getting through the lines. This applied to restaurants, especially hotels, and Airlines.  Of Interest, I read an article, and I don't know if it's true, but in Belgium, if you show up at the airport without checking in online they fine you €65.  One hotel canceled our reservation on the day of arrival because we did not check-in online. Another area that shows change is the use of QR code scans in most places.  Airport lounges and restaurants asked you to use a QR Scanner to pull up information, menus, etc and this was across the industry and pretty much everywhere.  Airport lounges have become much more critical to improving your comfort on a trip.  I recommend you either get a credit card that allows for Lounge access or if necessary purchase Lounge access.  Even then the lounges that we visited had overcrowding with no staff and a lack of amenities in some cases. One recommendation I can make at this point is to avoid British Air and especially Gatwick Airport.  I always thought British Airways was a premium airline with some of the best business class amenities. Having flown them 4 times this month the price was twice the price and as far as I'm concerned the amenities were half the competitors.  Gatwick Airport is one of the worst airports I've experienced in terms of transfers and changing plans and making flights.  Both times we went through Gatwick it took over 2 hours just to check in and go through security and almost missed connecting flights.  British friends that we spoke with confirmed that instead most Brits try to avoid Gatwick and fly out of Heathrow.  The main reason Gatwick is so busy is that it seems to be the primary airport in Europe for EasyJet.  Buyer beware!

News Flash just announced Gatwick Airport has requested all airlines to reduce the number of arrivals as they have no staff to meet the need, on the news wire this morning!!  Go figure!!

First impressions of Croatia and the Adriatic Sea

Clark and I are enjoying our first trip to Croatia cruising along the coast of the Adriatic Sea.  My first impressions of the area is that it is idyllic, it is quiet and peaceful and it is inexpensive to visit here compared the other regions similar in Europe.  The local wines are good.   Flying into Dubrovnik was easy for most of us and today during the summer there is a direct flight from Newark New Jersey. Getting to town was painless they have great Uber over here one of the best I've seen.  We had to wait less than a minute for an Uber and never paid over $12 a ride.  We stayed initially at the Sheraton Dubrovnik which was elegant and comfortable.  The staff at the hotels and restaurants were extremely friendly and helpful they really want your business. Because of the rocky coast the cities and towns are on the water and buildings only go up a few hundred feet into the hills. They look very much like any area on the Italian Riviera.  The food here is great.  Until the late 70s they really had no major infrastructure here or electricity so for centuries most if not all of their food is grilled on charcoal which is the same today.  This is just my opinion but you can go to the most expensive restaurant in town and the next night the cheapest and the grilled fish to me both taste the same. So my lesson here was unless there's something super different the  less expensive places may be the same food.  Interestingly the beef here is pretty good and in my experience especially in France it is not so I had a beef tenderloin one evening that was superior.  In conclusion it appears that the Adriatic Sea and Croatia is trying to be the up-and-coming Jet Set vacation spot in Europe.  I think they're getting close today as we speak and if you compare them to Italy and France the total cost of a trip is the third to a half what you would pay.  How long that lasts is anyone's guess but if you want to get here today at a reasonable price I recommend you come now.

The Ten Things Rocky Mountaineer does NOT tell you in their fancy glossy brochures

1. There is no WIFI/Internet except for staff.

2. There are long waits standing with no seating at all transfers.

3. At the final destination if you did not book transfers through Rocky Mountaineer you are on your own with no assistance.

4. While waiting for departure there is no refreshment and not even water. Bring your own.

5. On departure wake-up call can be as early as 5 AM. There is no set definite schedule.

6. Onboard seats do NOT recline.

7. Featured hotels have limited electrical outlets and some have no USB ports.

8. Trains have no set schedule so you cannot plan anything. Trains frequently 2 to 3 hours later than expected. You arrive too late for dinner sometimes.

9. Due to an unknown arrival time unable to schedule the Covid test to return to the USA. The test MUST be scheduled online with an appointment within a 24-hour window prior to flying home. May have to wait up to 48 hours for an appointment dependent on tourist demand.  Rocky Mountaineer provides no assistance or help in this manner.

10. Staff will tell you they cannot give you any accurate information and cannot guarantee anything.  Offices and personnel at the hotels they use are either nonexistent or have hours that don't do you any good.  They also do not answer the phone and their voice mail box is always full.

Covid Update for Travelers

I have always been a kind of bottom-line kind of guy.  So here it is, despite any and all precautions anyone takes, every human being on the face of the earth will catch Covid-19.  It is just a matter of time.  That is the bad news.  The good news is that for 99.9% of those who are fully vaccinated with boosters, at least one, and preferably two, you will have a mild illness not requiring any medical care and you will not die from the disease.  Clark and I just returned from 2 weeks in Canada and despite wearing a mask, taking Vitamin D, wearing a negative ion generator, etc., etc. we still caught the damn thing.  But, no fever, no breathing problem, just a very mild cold with a mild cough, running nose, and sore throat for about 3 days.  A nonevent.  To date Covid is one of the most contagious and transmittable viruses ever known to man.  Remember this during the 1918 Spanish Flu pandemic people living in the Mariannis island in the South Pacific all caught Spanish Flu and 1/2 of the population died.  This occured even though they never had any visitors.  Not one ship or airplane landed and despite no contact with the outside world they all got it anyway.  The reason's the mandates for masks for example have not worked is they only have a chance of working if 100% of the population wears a mask 100% of the time and does NOT remove it to eat or drink which is basically impossible.  In addition have you ever tried to get 100% of human beings to do anything??  Just look at China who with their draconian totalitarian system have again completely locked down Shanghai and yet the virus is still spreading there.  I doubt anyone knows why you cannot stop the spread of Covid.  I suspect the wind, birds, whatever help it spead.  The bottom line is I truly believe most humans will eventually catch it.  BUT!  If you have your shots and booster the evidence is clear, your symptoms should be mild and you should not die.  Elderly folks with mutiple high risk factors will still have some risk of hospitalization and death.  Colin Powell is a good example here.  He had all his shots and boosters, but still he caught Covid and died from it.  But he was under active treatement for not one but two cancers so the deck was stacked against him no matter what.  Don't forget every year in America 50,000 die in car accidents and 35 people die yearly falling out of bed and breaking their neck.  Life is a risk factor.  All we can do is mitigate and reduce the risk which we can do with Covid by getting all shots and boosters.

It also needs to be noted that the current requirement of the US Government to reenter the USA from abroad requires a negative COVID test exactly 24 hours prior to the exact departure time of your flight, or if the test is positive a letter from a licensed physician that you had an active COVID infection and have recovered and are safe to travel.  It is somewhat difficult to accomplish this.  All COVID testing sites are not always obvious.  The ones we found all required appointments and prepayment with no provision for walk in's.  Their appointment times where usually 9 to 5 and not conveinent to match your flight times, and resulted in having delays getting an appointment that in our case at least caused us to miss our flights.  One example that can impact you is your flight is delayed a couple of hours and your COVID test is now over 24 hours from the new flight time and you have to go through the entire process again with no guarantee you can get an appointment and result in time.  For us it was a nightmare.  Be sure and consider all of this and have a back up plan in place just in case.  We also had trouble finding a hotel room last minute for even a day or two until we could get everthing fixed.

Just Say No to the Rocky Mountaineer

On your bucket list of life, we have always wanted to take the Rocky Mountaineer through the Canadian Rockies. Having heard from many friends how wonderful it was, we couldn't wait to go and finally had the chance. Regrettably, our trip did not meet our expectations and there were multiple problems that will preclude us from ever going again or recommending it. There are some Pros to the trip, the chief of which is the views. There is no question in an open Dome car that you can see 360 Degrees, you are going to see a landscape that most human beings will never see. The scenes were phenomenal and spectacular. We also saw wildlife, mountain sheep, Elk, Eagles, and yes bears in the wild which was exceptional. It was clearly the best thing the train trip had to offer. You have two seats together, and in what they called their gold leaf service you have 2 power outlets and 2 USB ports. You also have the same in the Silver Leaf service but the Silver Leaf service from what we could tell you would not want to take because everything is pretty much crammed in and it doesn't look like it's that comfortable though we met some of the Silver Leaf passengers who indicated to us that service was quicker in those cars. The power outlets didn't do us a lot of good because the train has no Wi-fi for passengers which they don't tell you upfront. They advertised gourmet food, I wouldn't call it gourmet but I would say it's very good food very tasty, and well-prepared. One of their selling points is that you travel all day and see the scenery and then spend your nights at the hotel. The hotels they provide you are above average but there are problems with the Hotels also. One of the good things about this tour is that they do tag and pick up and deliver your luggage room to your room and on our trip, it was always accurately done and our baggage was always waiting for us except in only one case when it was 2 hours late.   On most tour trips that we've taken in the past, the luggage arrives much later if it all sometimes. The problems however in our opinion outweigh the positive aspects of this trip. To begin with the transfers from the hotel to your train and then your train back to your hotel we're completely chaotic and no better than a fire drill. There are no provisions made for disabled people when waiting, which seemed to the majority. There was a hurry up and wait for aspect to it and if you were disabled you had to stand for prolonged periods of time waiting to board. Staff seemed to be more interested in following the protocols and procedures than keeping the passengers comfortable. On the last day if you had not paid and booked your final transfer with Rocky Mountaineer you were on your own.  I witnessed a wheelchair-bound passenger trying to move her bags with staff standing around not offering to help.  On the first day of your trip, you have to have a safety briefing which is fine but you wait a long time to get on the train and once you get to your seat you sit there for some time waiting. It generally took about an hour after boarding to get the breakfast and you were offered nothing to drink during that time. Not even water. Yet the staff was at the back drinking their own personal coffee while everybody else waited. Would it really cut into their profit margins to offer water to everybody when they got on the train initially? There again were times when the comfort of the staff was more important than the passengers. As previously stated there is no Wi-Fi on the train and they don't tell you that. Thankfully we had a data connection that we could use at a reasonable price but I find it quite unacceptable that they don't have Wi-Fi for the passengers.   In that they do have Wi-Fi for the staff so if they have it for the staff why can't they provide it for the passengers. There was more than one incident where I was flat lied to. On the second day of the trip, you arrived late after dinner time. Being a diabetic I need to eat so I asked one of the staff on the late day if dinner was going to be served and they told me yes dinner is going to be served. Dinner was not served it was a flat lie. Their second biggest lie is it at the hotels they allegedly have a guest services Center and a phone number to call for assistance for anything. It never happened. We made multiple phone calls that were not answered and their voice mailboxes were always full so you couldn't even leave a voicemail. At every hotel, we looked for the guest center and there were none and there was no Rocky Mountaineer staff to assist you another, flat lie.  We did find one at the Lake Louise Hotel where the sign said staff available 5 to 8 PM Tuesday and Saturday so only 6 hours a week.  In that our bus left Tuesday morning at 7 AM what were we supposed to do?  Miss the bus and wait until 5 PM to speak with someone?   And lastly, in their brochures, they tell you that you can get a great rest on the train because their seats recline and this is not true. They move the bottom which moves forward but the back does not recline back. In truth, the seats are fairly uncomfortable and we were not able to even nap on the train. In that especially going east some of the trains arrive late we actually found it was difficult to find dinner reservations and dinner was always on you. You may want to make dinner reservations before you leave but in Kamloops, this is impossible because they do not tell you the name of the hotel until you are off the train and our hotel was far out with no surrounding business and the hotel restaurant was fully booked when we arrived for dinner. Everywhere we ended up seemed to be quite busy and there really weren't any restaurant reservations to be found.  And even though you spend the night at a hotel you are there 8 hours or less because of the early rising and you really get no benefit from the hotel. Finally, in their brochures, they certainly don't mention this and after you book they tell you last minute but going east you're required to get up and be out of the room at a very early hour sometimes as early as 5 a.m. For someone who is not a morning person, this was quite difficult for me especially given the fact that I had to wait on the train to be seated for breakfast before I even got coffee. The trains going from the west from Jasper and Banff leave a little later so it's not as much an issue for those trips. Having all of that information I would recommend that if you want to take this train you always take the westbound trains from Jasper to Vancouver or from Banff to Vancouver, and that one is the more scenic.   Something we found interesting from the staff is that the staff at least considers these train trips just a two-day one-way trip, either going east or going west. Even though we did it round trip as far as the Rocky Mountaineer staff is concerned it's two separate train trips. Once we got to Banff for example we stayed five days in the area and then after five days took the Rocky Mountaineer back to Vancouver.  Once you are off the trains there is no assistance or communication regarding Rocky Mountaineer from anyone.  Again the scenic views are spectacular even epic and something that most human beings will never see. It made up for a lot of the negatives on the trip. Knowing what I know now I would not really want to take another trip with this company and if I was I would make sure that it was going west to east and not the opposite. I should also mention the hotels that we stayed at, both the ones that the Rocky Mountaineer booked as well as the ones we booked on our own all had very few electrical outlets in the room, Most had no USB ports. You need to be sure and take a power strip and enough USB and regular electrical ports on the strip to meet your needs.  This seems to be peculiar to Canada for some reason.  It's one way to save power.